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Fender rubbing on tyre

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Old 04-10-2009, 10:18 AM
  #16  
boxsey911
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Originally Posted by rotorheadcase
Love that first pic boxey... it's my new desktop wallpaper. May I ask where you got the PORSCHE sunshade?

How were the Toyos? I'm looking at them now that I'm doing more track days and the 225's are the most popular choice and recommended by my local specialist. I'm just about to pull the trigger on a set of KW V3's so I have more than a passing interest on your initial impressions with the whole upgrade. My suspension guy is also recommending more -ve camber than the RS numbers but obviously at the expense of a little more tyre wear.

Neil
Neil,

I'm flattered . You can get all manner of decals from here:

http://www.highgatehouse.co.uk/964_old.htm

With the sunshade you need to choose the colour of the shade and the colour of the PORSCHE decal to go on top (i.e. you buy two items). Note that when putting the shade on it looks a bit too big at first because it's designed so the edges sneak under the windshield rubber.

The Toyos were all I expected them to be - way more sticky than road tyres but still plenty of feedback and have a progressive feel i.e. I could feel when the back was getting loose, they didn't just suddenly let go. They heat up very quickly compared to normal tyres so I'm going to play more with the pressures on forthcoming trackdays to see what they ride best at (i've been recommended to run them at 34 and 36 hot but did not try anything lower than 35 and 38 hot on the first day). They look to have worn really well and I would expect to get at least 4 trackdays out of the rears.

However, I'll resist more negative camber for now because while our tracks are super smooth, our poor highways are not good for agressive geos.

Bill and Breale...thanks...I've just checked the car and both sides have had the wings filed down as per the TSB you notified me of. Will inspect closer tomorrow when I have time to get the wheels off.
Old 04-10-2009, 09:05 PM
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demonfish
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just as a start point steve, i was going out on 29psi, and coming in on 36 all round hot...

(15min session, 40 min cool)

I managed 1.41G Braking
Old 04-11-2009, 02:42 PM
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boxsey911
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Got the wheel off today and it looks like the rubbing was at the junction of the wing and bumper. The dividing rubber has taken a hammering, some of the plastic of the bumper has worn down and triangular piece of wing metal had folder over:



Here's the bit of metal after bending it out half way:



Here it is after bending and tapping it back into place, rubbing down and touched up:

Old 04-11-2009, 03:54 PM
  #19  
breale01
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Exactly where mine was rubbing, although I had way less damage. More (-ve) camber and a little more material shaved away did the trick.
Old 04-11-2009, 04:13 PM
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demonfish
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do you know what cambers you are running steve?
Old 04-12-2009, 06:29 AM
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boxsey911
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Originally Posted by demonfish
do you know what cambers you are running steve?
It was set at -1 all round as per standard spec for the RS.

What about you and Moog coming to Rockingham in August for a little friendly competition?
Old 04-13-2009, 10:13 AM
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cobalt
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I switched to the R888's from the RA-1's and the sidewall is much more pronounced than the RA-1's. What offset are those wheels? I am running 235 on an 8X17 Cup I ET 52 using 3 mm spacers and so far so good. Although i had to reduce the 15mm rear spacer to a 7mm to make the back 275's fit. My car is lowered with about 2 degrees of negative camber and it is tight but still safe.
Old 04-13-2009, 04:09 PM
  #23  
boxsey911
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Hi Cobalt, the R888s are on 7J ET 55 and 8.5J ET 52 boxster wheels. So pretty much standard 964 fitment and no need for spacers.
Old 04-13-2009, 04:34 PM
  #24  
964russ
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Good to see that it aint a serious issue, i like easy the easy fix
Old 04-14-2009, 09:52 AM
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cobalt
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Originally Posted by boxsey911
Hi Cobalt, the R888s are on 7J ET 55 and 8.5J ET 52 boxster wheels. So pretty much standard 964 fitment and no need for spacers.
I checked my car last night and I guess the mod you did was already done to mine. Keep an eye on it though nobody needs a surprise at the track.
Old 04-15-2009, 02:54 PM
  #26  
Low 964
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Mine did the same after I fitted V3 so I filed it a bit , but after geo it was fine, the wheels may be set to near the front of the arch.

End of the day if you go low its gonna rub some time.
Old 04-15-2009, 07:36 PM
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boxsey911
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Originally Posted by Low 964
Mine did the same after I fitted V3 so I filed it a bit , but after geo it was fine, the wheels may be set to near the front of the arch.

End of the day if you go low its gonna rub some time.
The wheels are set at standard caster (4 25) so in theory they are not too close but I guess with our low ride heights this may bring the front of the wheels closer to the wing/bumper where the rubbing occurred? I'm not getting any rubbing during road driving but a] I use the normal 205 width wheels on the road and b] I'm not braking anywhere near as hard as I was on the track.

In addition to sorting out that metal spike (above) I'm wondering if I should stiffen up the bump setting on the KWs for the next track outing to reduce the rubbing? Ideally I'd like to add a tiny bit more caster because it was intially set at 4 35 which made the steering 'weight' feel much better (it was dialed back to 4 25 so that it was on the safe side for my first track outing with the new set up).

p.s. I agree that putting up with a bit of rubbing when the car is used hard is a small price to pay for the fun it brings
Old 04-20-2009, 05:07 AM
  #28  
Low 964
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Hi Steve, looks like the wing bracket may be the problem, so do I just remove the arch liner and will that then show the bracket....is it easy to move the inner arch liner???

Any one got any pics of this??
Old 04-20-2009, 06:44 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Low 964
Hi Steve, looks like the wing bracket may be the problem, so do I just remove the arch liner and will that then show the bracket....is it easy to move the inner arch liner???

Any one got any pics of this??
Yes removing the arch liner is easy - about 10 screws and you only need to remove the front part. Of course the scews might be a bit rusty so the use of penetrating oil and a snug fitting philips bit and socket are the tools of choice. The stay is the rusty bar you can see in the first two pics above that is fastened by a new looking screw. It's part 21 in the diagram below. Mine was bent and had to be hammered back into shape. When refitted it, the wing/bumper was moved about 5 mm further out and stopped the wheel rubbing on the liner (the bent stay was effectively pushing the liner towards the wheel).

Old 04-20-2009, 03:13 PM
  #30  
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Cheers mate, will get the wife on it...!


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