Geoffrey

You should have no issue seeing the image, I did post a link to it.

The cap that remains attached to the cv boot once you cut away the crimp is 9.1mm deep from the edge of the crimp to the backside of the cap. Where the crimp is on the stub axle corresponds to a groove in the stub axle, so you just cut the edge of the crimp and you can tap it off with a hammer and punch. It should come right off. The O-ring sits in a groove just above the crimp and should be obvious when you pull the cap off the stub axle.

I use M3 standard allen cap screws, but really anything small will work. I use these because I have a bag of them, they are black hardened cap screws and look nice.

Maybe post a picture of what you are dealing with.

Jeff Curtis

Geoffrey, thanks again for the info. I am relying on your info. to the "T" indeed.

Weird, the picture you posted wouldn't show up earlier today, nor did it when I viewed this post a few minutes ago...then I went back to it and there they were...maybe it just took some time to load, I dunno.

Again, you have been so helpful, I really appreciate it as while I'm apparently not blowing out CV axles as often as you two (Tom/Geoffrey) I would like them to last a season without having to toss one...this solution will make it very easy to service them a couple times a season and hopefully they'll last for quite some time!

WHAT process did you use to polish the ball-bearing galleys?? Can the ball-bearings themselves be sourced...like a high-grade version? If they are "shot" is the chrome plating compromised or is there pitting evident? I have yet to break into one of my axles I suspect are worn out, etc. and I would imagine the chrome plating on the bearings gets messed up or pitting, etc.

We'll turn this one again on Monday to pop the cap off...I'll post a pic of what we find once I get 'em cleaned up.

Geoffrey

I'm not blowing out axles frequently. I got 80 hours out of my left and 100 hours out of my right without servicing. I believe this is because of the preparation of the axles and the use of Neo (or Krytox) grease. This equates to about 3 years of racing on the axles.

I use a die grinder with some attachements I use for porting heads.

When the axles wear, they will pit the ***** themselves and wear into the inner and outer race. The inner race will tend to show pitting moreso than the outer. I haven't found a source for new parts, so I buy a new street axle, take it apart and use the pieces on my Motorsport lightweight axles. If I didn't have the lightweight Motorsport axles, I'd still take them apart, clean them, and do the process above with the Neo grease. Assuming you don't have axle angularity issues, you should get long life out of them using this process.

I learned this the hard way with my 700hp 911 Turbo which was hard on the axles. Once I begun polishing the CV joints and using good grease, I increased the life significantly. The only downside about the C2 axle is that the stub axle is part of the assembly which requires all of this lathe cutting, drilling and tapping. It also makes a messy job because are cleaning out the grease. With the turbo axles, I'd simply throw away the $86 cv joint, $12 boot and start fresh with the existing axle and new parts.

Jeff Curtis

Right on Geoffrey, you are obviously the "Pioneer" in figuring this out for the 964 crowd...thanks again bud.

I might even delve into the polishing domain as I have a nice die grinder, I assume I'll need some polish and the "buffing" attachments for it then?

Geoffrey

Ok, here is a completed rebuilt axle. This one has new inner and outer joints with the original motorsport gun drilled axle. You can see how it is bolted together.

Jeff, how did you ever make out?

Tom W

Geoffrey: Have you ever used axles/CV's from other than GKN (for the 964)? I'm not alone in my race class in burning up CVs and Rich and I were discussing looking into alternatives that might stand up to the geometry we have a bit better.

Geoffrey

I have not, but would be interested in what you guys come up with.

Jeff Curtis

Nice and clean Geoffrey! What are you using for CV boot clamps?? ...it looks like you have a heavy duty zip-tie or something??

I have disassembled three axles so far, two look OK one didn't...going to swap around parts and make a third out of the mess with another spare axle I have...once I get those done and am satisfied with our methods, I will crack open the two "like new" units I acquired from a fellow on eBay.

Thanks for posting the finished pics, that really helps out with what screws we're going to use and placement.

HOW did you get perfect spacing for drilling/tapping for the three screws?? I want the caps to be interchangeable in case I have an issue down the road and need to swap/interchange parts.

Thanks again Geoffrey.

Geoffrey

I just use heavy zip tie.

I made a tool that slides over the axle and has holes 120 degrees apart for drilling the stub axle and cover. The other side fits inside the cap, so you use the same tool and it will work for all axles and covers you do and are interchangable without worrying about how it fits..

Jeff Curtis

Geoffrey, any chance I could "contract" you to make me one??

Seems like we're going to do all SIX of my axles...so we'll need something to keep things consistent.

Zip ties eh?? ...any tip on where to get the ones that have worked so well for you? I have THOUSANDS of white Thomas and Betts steel insert versions from the Telecom Industry - dunno if that's what I need ot use though.