christallon

Thanks Larry,

I think I've figured it out. The suspension was at it's full travel length (hanging with wheel off). I jacked up the wheel carrier and compressed the strut and the sway bar and link moved away from the A arm enough to allow for the last two adjustment points to be accessible. When I released the jack the RS drop link Knuckle rested on the A arm in the full hard and second full hard position. Hopefully there won't be too many conditions under "full suspension release" (ie when the front wheels are off the ground) where the sway bar/drop link/and A arm come together. This would only be an issue in full hard and second full hard settings though. I'm planning to set this initially at the middle setting. I am also planning on leaving the stock rear C2 bar (21 MM) in place as is. What do you think of that considering a slightly higher than RS ride Ht and alignment settings? I have the 3 position RS bar as well, but thought to try the stock bar first. The rear spring rates max out at 302 Lbs, so the smaller 18MM bar may not be stiff enough. Thoughts?

Many Thanks....

J richard

The RSbars were optimized to work with the euro RS springs and dampers. They are meant to give a range of tuneability based on a higher spring rate. Mine worked well on my street/track car with the bilstein/reds at full hard in the rear and middle on the front. I started in the same position on the racecar (cup springs/struts) and eventually backed off to middle rear and one hard on the front. The position changes made a much bigger difference with the cup setup which suggested that it's optimized for the spring rates.

The factory designed the street cars M030 to run with more bar as a percentage of the gross spring rate to lighten the springs for a softer ride with a reasonable handling and roll.

Long winded way of saying the higher the spring rates the better the RS bars work. With anything under about 350lbs the bars aren't into their tuning range and your sport bars may be more effective...

christallon

Thank You for that J Richard. I have the front set at full soft now and have good turn in. I appreciate the input.

ThomasC2

I've tried different settings, going from the soft end. Now i've found a setting that makes my car very neutral through the curve with a good bite in the front end and a rear end that is easy to control. Front is one hole from full soft and rear is in the middle. My suspension is stiff, from RSR.

Thomas

boxsey911

Just for clarity, here's a pic of the RS drop links that I've just had installed on mine. It confirms what Larry says about the bend being at the bottom i.e. the angled end connects to the sway bar (I still have the standard C2 bars but since my old drop links were shot, I thought I might aswell go with the RS versions).

christallon

Thanks Boxey and Thomas,

Yes, the bend is closest to the sway bar. When the parts are considered Left and Right, that is from the drivers seat perspective, correct? Sitting in the drivers seat the left is US drivers side (the correct side ) and the right is the passenger side. Mine does not look like the pic though, I'm thinking either you or I may have them installed on the wrong side. The bend in mine runs parallel to the sway bar end, your's looks the other way around. Thoughts?

boxsey911

My pic is of the front right wheel (passenger side on a LHD 964). You can see from the part number (964 343 072 80) that it's the right side RS drop link. Mine were fitted by my P-car specialist as part of a number of jobs they were doing for me at the time.

Porsche specify their parts to be right side or left side fitment, where appropriate, regardless of whether the car is LHD or RHD. Hopefully that will be of some help?

christallon

Thanks Boxey,

I just confirmed I have the 071 drop link on the left side, so the 072 is on the right. It appears we're on the same page. That pic is hard to put into context, but now knowing it's the right side, helps me understand the orientation better.