RS America sway bars
05-22-2008, 02:04 PM
#2
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Many C2s came with the same sways as the RSA (as did mine - came with M030 suspension). So yes, direct bolt-on to a C2. I think I sold my sways for $200?
05-22-2008, 03:44 PM
#3
I have a front RSA - M 030 on mine and I think I paid ~$100 used with the end links. The end links are different from the stock bar so be sure to get them too. It makes a difference over the stock C 2 sway bar I believe it is 2mm larger in dia.
05-22-2008, 09:30 PM
#5
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yup it's a bolt on, the M030 is the sport suspension option which is also available on the C2, so you might want to check, if you have the sport suspension you have the same bars as the RSA. The factory info is 20MM/22MM. I have two sitting on a shelf if you need a pair.
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05-29-2008, 12:54 PM
#8
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yup it's a bolt on, the M030 is the sport suspension option which is also available on the C2, so you might want to check, if you have the sport suspension you have the same bars as the RSA. The factory info is 20MM/22MM. I have two sitting on a shelf if you need a pair.
And the RSA bars are:
24MM Front ?
??MM Back?
05-29-2008, 01:34 PM
#10
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Not too bad, you have to jack up the entire front of the car so both wheels are in the air. Both wheels have to be unloaded so there is no torque on the stabilizer bar.
Remove the wheels, then remove the belly pan covering the front suspension and steering rack.
Undo the drop links at the strut. The stabilizer is retained at the chassis by 2 "U" shaped clamps that are retained at one end by a slot in the cross member and at the other by a bolt. Remove the bolt and cant the "U" to remove the clamp, the bar and drop links.
Install is the reverse of disassembly, but since Porsche installed the bar on a work bench before installing it in the car, there can be a little difficulty re-installing the "U" clamps due to some interference if the bushings are new. The clamp may have to be dressed a bit with a file at its tab portion to facilitate installing in the slot again.
Remove the wheels, then remove the belly pan covering the front suspension and steering rack.
Undo the drop links at the strut. The stabilizer is retained at the chassis by 2 "U" shaped clamps that are retained at one end by a slot in the cross member and at the other by a bolt. Remove the bolt and cant the "U" to remove the clamp, the bar and drop links.
Install is the reverse of disassembly, but since Porsche installed the bar on a work bench before installing it in the car, there can be a little difficulty re-installing the "U" clamps due to some interference if the bushings are new. The clamp may have to be dressed a bit with a file at its tab portion to facilitate installing in the slot again.
05-29-2008, 11:42 PM
#12
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Not too bad, you have to jack up the entire front of the car so both wheels are in the air. Both wheels have to be unloaded so there is no torque on the stabilizer bar.
Remove the wheels, then remove the belly pan covering the front suspension and steering rack.
Undo the drop links at the strut. The stabilizer is retained at the chassis by 2 "U" shaped clamps that are retained at one end by a slot in the cross member and at the other by a bolt. Remove the bolt and cant the "U" to remove the clamp, the bar and drop links.
Install is the reverse of disassembly, but since Porsche installed the bar on a work bench before installing it in the car, there can be a little difficulty re-installing the "U" clamps due to some interference if the bushings are new. The clamp may have to be dressed a bit with a file at its tab portion to facilitate installing in the slot again.
Remove the wheels, then remove the belly pan covering the front suspension and steering rack.
Undo the drop links at the strut. The stabilizer is retained at the chassis by 2 "U" shaped clamps that are retained at one end by a slot in the cross member and at the other by a bolt. Remove the bolt and cant the "U" to remove the clamp, the bar and drop links.
Install is the reverse of disassembly, but since Porsche installed the bar on a work bench before installing it in the car, there can be a little difficulty re-installing the "U" clamps due to some interference if the bushings are new. The clamp may have to be dressed a bit with a file at its tab portion to facilitate installing in the slot again.
How about the rear bar?
05-30-2008, 10:47 AM
#13
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It's easier to remove the rear bar, particularly if you have removed the engine undertray already. Same principle with jacking car, both wheels have to be off the ground to unload the bar.
Rear bar has 2 bolts retaining each of the "U" pieces and they are easier to work with than the front bar's. Also, the drop links are not usually changed and can be unbolted at the bar end (this is same for front bar if the drop links not changed).
A pretty easy project with car on jack stands, really easy if you have car up on lift.
Rear bar has 2 bolts retaining each of the "U" pieces and they are easier to work with than the front bar's. Also, the drop links are not usually changed and can be unbolted at the bar end (this is same for front bar if the drop links not changed).
A pretty easy project with car on jack stands, really easy if you have car up on lift.
