amr89c4

The crank pulley/balancer retainer bolt is a RH thread, right?

Mine is really stubborn. Of course it is torqued to 173 ft/lbs and the rascal is thre only bolt preventing me from replacing my timing chain cover gaskets.

ThomasC2

it's RH.

dutchcrunch

you need the tool to hold that pulley from turning. do not wrench on it with out it.. example putting the car in gear, ect. you will be putting excess force on the crank!!!!!!! what you can do is double nut the stud that goes thru the airconditioning bracket and it will let you remove the bracket with out taking the balance wheel off. or you can remove the small allen pulley bolts, i think there is 10 of them, i do not remember and make sure you mark the position with an index mark to put back the same way and also there is shims . apply medium strenght locktite to them when you replace. do not use the red high strenghth!!!!

only thing if you remove the pulley that way via the allen bolts you will not beable to change the garloc seal at the crank. they never leak anyways.

whatever you do do not wrench on that nut whether it be tightening or removal with out that special holder or you risk damaging the crank!!!

Indycam

"with out that special holder or you risk damaging the crank!!!"
The crank is hooked up to an over one ton car , I weigh far far less than that .
The crank is hooked up to cylinders that put out 50ish hp each , I put out 1/10 hp on a very good day .

If you bolted down the far end of the crank and I went at the other end of the crank with a torque wrench set for 173 ft/lbs ,
I seriously doubt I could ever do the crank any damage .

Red rooster

I agree with Dutchcrunch . Its well known that you need the pulley lock tool to be able to safely undo the pulley bolt .
If you try the Indycam method you will put a progressive twist in the crank !

All the best

Geoff
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KS400200,the oldest 964 on Rennlist,unless you know differently !

amr89c4

Ok, I'm with Indycam on this one.

Since I think we are all speculating here, if the crank is not locked at the flywheel end then I would hope that an M14 bolt would twist before a forged steel crankshaft would.

I'll ask one of our MEs Monday.

Indycam

"All crankshafts twist during operation. As each piston goes through a power stroke, a twisting force (torque) is applied to the crank through the connecting rod. As each cylinder fires, torque is applied and relieved and as a result, the crank twists and untwists. Crankshafts also experience bending during operation, but this is usually of less significance than twisting. The most twisting load is on the rear of the crankshaft. The drive belts on the crank snout (power steering and AC, or a supercharger) also adds load, but to the front of the crankshaft. These loads on each end add to the twisting forces working against the crank, and as rpm and power levels increase, so do these stresses. Both nitrous and a SC add power and thus increase the stress on the crank with the added loads of driving the SC. When a blower car experiences crank failure, it is often at the snout area due to the added stress of driving the supercharger. Also, since a performance engine is often operated at high rpm, there is further loading the crank."

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...ank/index.html
"The crank is designed to be twisted, and is constantly dealing with the stress of twisting from the moment the engine fires. The abundance of load is on the rear of the crankshaft as long as the vehicle is in gear, of course. Once the clutch is let out or the shifter is placed in "Drive," the crankshaft sees twisting force at the rear of the engine as resistance to its movement. Adding various drives (like power steering, air conditioning, or a belt-driven supercharger) to the crank snout also adds load, but to the very front of the crankshaft. These loads on either end cannot help but add to the twisting forces working against the crank, and as rpm and power levels increase, so do these stresses."

Piston movement turns the crank because the crank's rod journal is off the crank's centerline. The crank's rod journal acts as a lever arm attached to a shaft. The piston and rod push down on the lever arm, which rotates the shaft. That all sounds good until you consider that the force we are discussing is really a power pulse that comes from igniting the air/fuel charge. The pulse is resisted by the entire weight and inertia of the car, which the driveline is attempting to push forward. It is impossible to create a perfectly rigid crank, so some of the energy from the piston bends the lever arm and twists the crankshaft.

http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...per/index.html
Piston movement turns the crank because the crank's rod journal is off the crank's centerline. The crank's rod journal acts as a lever arm attached to a shaft. The piston and rod push down on the lever arm, which rotates the shaft. That all sounds good until you consider that the force we are discussing is really a power pulse that comes from igniting the air/fuel charge. The pulse is resisted by the entire weight and inertia of the car, which the driveline is attempting to push forward. It is impossible to create a perfectly rigid crank, so some of the energy from the piston bends the lever arm and twists the crankshaft.
When the force is reduced enough for the crank to spring back, it doesn't just return to its original shape immediately. Instead, the force of untwisting causes it to shoot past its original shape and twist in the opposite direction. This twisting goes back and forth a number of times until the crank settles down. The number of times this event takes place and its duration depends on the crank's construction (cast, forged, billet), mass, and quality of materials.

Alternator = 115 Amp = 4-8ish HP .
http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/alt_inf2.shtml
"If using a gasoline engine instead of a diesel, with a slightly lower 2 to 2.5:1 drive ratio, figure on a requirement of about 1 hp per 15 amps of output power + about 1-3 hp for engine operating/muffling
loads -- i.e., 11-14 hp for a 150A alternator. "
http://www.boatelectric.com/alternat.htm
"Typically, when an alternator is working at full output, it will require approximately one horsepower for every 25 amps it produces. As such, a 100-amp high-output alternator will demand up to four horsepower to operate."

Air con pump = 0-10 ish hp .
http://blogs.automobilemag.com/10071...on/index.htmlg
"But how much power does air conditioning really take to run? Every car is different, but to get one example, I took a BMW Z4 Coupe 3.0si to the dyno shop, and performed two tests - one with the air conditioning running, and one without."
"The Z4's 3.0-liter six-cylinder put 232 horsepower to the wheels without the A/C running, but this number dropped to 221 while blowing cold air. This equates to about a five percent drop, which doesn't sound like much, but remember, this is a 255-horsepower engine."
http://image.automobilemag.com/f/tec...no-results.jpg

Cooling Fan = ?

Supercharger = ?

The front of the crank can drive the alternator , air con pump , super charger and the cooling fan
but can be twisted by little old me ?

The back end of the crank can transmit the full horse power and torque to the clutch ,
but will be twisted by little old me ?

dutchcrunch

i do not think that would be good to apply that type of force without countering it without the tool. you are going to not only put force on the crank but you are going to put a side load the the number 8 bearing too. its up to you ,its your engine.

its different when you have laods on a rotatiog mass. but static its different. when the engine is running you have that oil that is providing a cushion for the bearings. maybe i am not saying it right but they would not have the tool for no reason even if you installed a flywheel lock it still is not good for the crank/bearing. you need to counter the load with the tool at the pulley. hope everything works out for you.

dutchcrunch

just like they have the holding tool for tighting the cam gear bolts.

dutchcrunch

somebody is trippin

Indycam

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/pp909953.htm

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...TOLtol_pg1.htm
000-721-920-61-OEM
968 Flywheel Lock
Brand: Genuine Porsche
"This lock is required after you replace the front oil seal and need to retorque the front pulley. "

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...Lock-P233.HTML
Porsche Flywheel Lock P233
Flywheel Lock P233Flywheel Lock needed to stop the motor from rotating during R&R of crank shaft bolt or motor. Applicable: Porsche model - 944
Price: $43.95

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...TOLtol_pg1.htm
000-721-916-10-OEM Flywheel Lock Tool (1978-82), 92 $53.75
000-721-916-11-OEM Flywheel Tool Late, (1983-95), 928

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.as...EL%20LOCK&bl=2

http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/oem-...ock_14234.html

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/...ck-2494-d.html

http://www.automotivetools.com/cgi-l...html?E+scstore

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/produc...ucts_id=258509
Tools/Ferrari "Clutch ring gear lock for damper mounting / removal." $810.00 each