Crystal Cranks

Hi,
I have an oil leak that looks like it is coming from the oil fitting on the filter housing (not the oil pipe nut).
I have read on another thread that if tightening the oil line nut to make sure the fitting nut does not move.
So my question is can I try to tighten the fitting nut without making things worse and can it be over torqued?
The leak is not to bad and I would live with it till the next service if there is a risk of making it worse.
Hope the pic helps,

thanks

garrett376

Best thing to do is to clean it up really well with some brake cleaner, then run the car and watch where it leaks. Sometimes when lines are removed, the attachment fittings are loosened without knowing, and not retightened - just the line is tightened, causing a leak. If that were my car, I'd clean it up really well, give each fitting a grunt or two to ensure they're tight, then monitor it.

Neat blue car, by the way

amr89c4

Ditto Garrett376...I had a leak on my 89 C4 in the same area. It was the adapter bushing that screws into the oil filter housing. Tightened it, then the hose nut and all is well. Good luck!

KirkF

There is also a crushable aluminum washer that can you replace between the fitting and the filter housing. I think its worth about 50 cents.

kirk

Crystal Cranks

Thanks for the replies, had a look today and got a small turn on it (not much room for leverage) so I'll keep an eye on it over the next couple of days.
Is the fitting part of the filter housing or is it sold separately,is there a part no.


cc

bwoodry

I need to replace my oil line that goes from the filter housing to the thermostat.

The fittings on the hose will not break loose, the fitting between the hose and the thermostat and or the filter housing move but the hose fitting will not.

Any suggestions how to get this off ?

springer3

I have pretty good luck with an electric hot-air gun. It is safer than a propane torch, but still gets a lot of heat out. If you can heat the outer ring and get on it quickly with the wrench, the ring will be just a bit larger than the inner fitting. Also, the thermal stress of heating the part makes it easier to loosen. Aluminum starts to anneal (soften) at around 100 deg C, so be careful about too much heat.

bwoodry

I got them off,,, soaked them in penetrating oil and the next day was able to break them free,,

altarchsa

I just replaced the line from teh filter housing to the t-stat. Similar problems on removal. Sears has a Crescent wrench that is small, 10" I think, but has a wide jaw and is thin enough to get on the fitting. Another Crescent on the nut gave me the necessary leverage.

Another recommendation - Had my hose custom built at the local hydraulic service shop. They welded the copper tube / nut end sections onto new fittings with new hose. PITA because I didn't know they were going to put the new connection right where the hose goes down through the narrow spot next to the tank. However, after rebuilding that connection to go on the wheel side of that area, everything is bone dry.

Best news, OEM HOSE - $500, CUSTOM HOSE - $100.

Crystal Cranks

Still have this leak after making sure that all the fittings were nice and tight.
I'm going to replace the union fitting (between the filter housing and oil line) and the sealing ring.

I just need to check the part numbers are the same as the fitttings on thermostat end as they are not shown in the PET. The numbers I have are,

90091500809 (union) ?
90012313930 (ring) ?


Page 50 of the PET

Crystal Cranks

Got this leak fixed at last, I think it's safe to say the aluminum washer was the problem.

Wachuko

Thank you... one more thing to add to my list.

Wachuko

Can you share the part number for that pressure ring?

Crystal Cranks

Part No. 90012313930 same as the ones on the thermostat fittings.

Alexx

Guys, when you ask for part numbers or checking part numbers on what page do you do that? pelican maybe?

Thank you