hans57

Hello all,

I would like to tap into all the brain power and hands on experiance out here to give me some quick tips before undertaking my first valve adjustment on my '91 C2. I have read many articles on the topic, it looks very time consuming but doable by a talented DIY er.
Anything based on your experiance that you care to share that may not have been said in the books? Is it best to use the Porsche tool, or will a standard curved feeler gauge work? I have seen discussions about the "go-no-go" method, thoughts? How about foot pounds I should torque the locking nuts too? General questions like that.........
Any input is appreciated.

Thank you all.

BTW, I have waited 50 years to get my first Porsche..........


'91 C2 cab

boze_man

i recently completed my first valve job and it is definitely very doable DIY...here a my post

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=valve

i beleive the 'go-no go' method from pelican does not work for the 964...at least it did not work for me...diff clearances...

for me it was easier to remove all engine tin and do all work from below...also do each side of the car at a time...would check and doable check my work

i have the special porsche tool but i found it easier to work with a standard feeler guage from a set...just bend to whatever shape works for u, and have spares...

good luck

race911

Takes a little longer than the 3.2 and earlier cars, but my God......taking off the engine tin????

Drain oil, pull cat and secondary muffler. Up top the a/c compressor and heater fan. Obviously the power steering pump is a PAIN to work around. Off come all the covers.

Without rusted exhaust fasteners, I think it's usually 3-4 hours, with the usual interruptions.

hans57

Engine tin and splash guards. Are these one and the same or are we talking about different things? From the last time I peaked under there with the bottom pan removed, it looked like the side pieces would have to come off just to do the bottom plugs. I have already changed the top plugs from the top. Also I replaced the distributor belt. As I go, I am learning all about the space issues.......

~jeff

JasonAndreas

You absolutely have to remove the shiny, foil covered insulated side panels and the valve adjustment will go a lot easier if you just remove the two (additional) upper engine tin pieces. They are only held in place with a few M6 screws. Basically the more things you can remove and get of the way the easier the adjustment will be.

Duck

Can the valve adjustment be done with wheels on ramps? I do not have jack stands yet (want the ac flat top stands).

springer3

I've always taken the wheels off. You could get to the valves with the wheels on, but I think the total job will take longer. Valve adjustment is a good time to inspect the brakes, suspension, etc, so why not make life easy and take the wheels off?

loot87

Can someone comment on the clearances? I've used 2.7 Racer's Go-no-go method and then checked it with the shim and it was snug, so I thought it worked well. Of course, I have a 3.3 Turbo, so that may be the difference.

parsecnc4

On a somewhat related topic on the valve adjustement job... does the sqaure 4-hole catalytic converter gasket need to be replaced every time it has been removed?

JasonAndreas

It is a copper crush gasket so it should be replaced along with all the exhaust fasteners. If you order the 12/15k periodic maintenance kit from Porsche it will include everything you need.

parsecnc4

Jason,

Thanks for the confirmation. Do you mean the exhaust seal rings and strap to the primary will also need to be replaced and included in the kit? I thought only the catalytic converter gasket is included with the kits one may find from Pelican and Sunset.

JasonAndreas

The "donuts" are reuseable but the extremely corroded fasteners (M8x70 & M8x37 bolts, washers, M8 lock nuts) attaching the catalytic converter to the header and the primary muffler (and to the secondary) should all be replaced. The strap fasteners (M8 x 80) are reuseable.

parsecnc4

Jason,

Got it and thanks!