dfinnegan

Do the lock nuts on the half shafts need to be replaced when pulling the shafts?

999.084.634.09 (1) lock nut 22x1.5
999.090.008.02 (1) lock nut 22x1.5

I'm doing the CV Boots and the nuts didn't arrive with the parts that I ordered.

JasonAndreas

In every suspension related TSB and the workshop manuals for every model it makes the point to, "Always replace the self-locking nut." I'm assuming because of the 300+ ft-lbs of torque? I know a few people on here and pelican have just reused the old nut but...

dfinnegan

That's what a I figured. Thanks. Sent email to Sunset. Guess I'll do this next week.

J.PELLEGRINO

We always replace the lock nuts, I have seen far too many loosen with ugly results. Good luck, Jerry

MisterRisky

Dave, you don't necessarily have to remove the nuts to change the CV joints/boots. Work from the inside and slide everything off in that direction. I ended up having to pull mine on one side only because I had issues getting the inside joint off so I wanted to pull the transaxle in order to apply extra heat and grunt.

deoxford

JD,
I have to replace the outside boot very soon , can you tell me how you did this?
Do you have some pics?
Thanks

MisterRisky

Derek, I followed Jason's very good tips for removing the inner CV joint:

https://rennlist.com/forums/diy-964-1989-1994-911/250820-addendum-to-cv-joint-disassembly-tips-please.html

After the inner CV is removed you can get the outer CV boot off by just removing the metal bands on the boot and sliding it off the shaft.

The only snag I had was on my left inner CV. This one did not want to let go, even using the wheel puller. I ended up removing the axle nut and pulling the entire half shaft. I put it in a vice and was able to get the inner CV off.

Just for total disclosure, I drive a C2 so I was only replacing rear CV boots.