race car oil cooler fan wiring question
#1
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race car oil cooler fan wiring question
I am trying to safely rig up a couple switches to activate the oil cooler fan. I just want to be sure I get this right, since my wiring diagram circuit knowledge comes from an intellivision game Bomb Squad from about 25 years ago!
If I wire a switch to provide 12V+ power to wire #1 into the R04 relay, this should turn on the oil cooler fan to full speed, correct? And if I do the same for plug 6, I should get the slow speed of the fan to work, right?
I just want to make sure I've got it right before I fizzle the wires! Thanks
If I wire a switch to provide 12V+ power to wire #1 into the R04 relay, this should turn on the oil cooler fan to full speed, correct? And if I do the same for plug 6, I should get the slow speed of the fan to work, right?
I just want to make sure I've got it right before I fizzle the wires! Thanks
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Garrett,
Have you checked here? http://p-car.com/diy/fan/
The 993 fan will run on high by just disconnecting the oil temperature sensor.
Simple solution if the 964 is the same. May not meet your intent, though.
Noah
Have you checked here? http://p-car.com/diy/fan/
The 993 fan will run on high by just disconnecting the oil temperature sensor.
Simple solution if the 964 is the same. May not meet your intent, though.
Noah
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Actually, that did help Noah, since they have a listing that confirms if I put power to those terminals I mentioned, I'll get the fans to work! Thanks Noah!
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It appears I need to drop the voltage from 12 to 0.86 to drive that relay... just need to figure out the math to use appropriate resistors (V=IR and all that!)
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For a track car, it's best to remove the fan completely. Much better air flow. You only need a fan for stop and go traffic or excessive idling.
With 2 oil colers (and no fans) my oil temps seldom exceed 180 F, even when it's 110 at Buttonwillow or Thunderhill.
With 2 oil colers (and no fans) my oil temps seldom exceed 180 F, even when it's 110 at Buttonwillow or Thunderhill.
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Is the third picture down the heat and the A/C or just the a/c? I've pulled the a/c up to the dash and would like to remove more weight but I am not sure about not having heat at BIR in Minnesota in late April. How much does that weigh?
Thanks
Thanks
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#10
If you are parting out the HVAC unit, I'm interested in the defrost button.
How difficult was the removal? I assume you had to pull the gas tank? I'm in need of a new evaporator or expansion valve one day soon.
How difficult was the removal? I assume you had to pull the gas tank? I'm in need of a new evaporator or expansion valve one day soon.
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Tom,
I did a little experimenting of my own with regard to the oil fan. I added a switch at the oil cooler fan itself (passed into the front compartment) which turns the fan to high speed all the time, or back to normal mode. We had a few 104 (weeks) in Atlanta this year and I felt the car was running a bit too hot at times.
I experimented with a few settings on the same day. Around town, the car runs very cool, however, when one gets up to cruise speed (80+), the car appears to actually run hotter with the fan runing in high speed mode. If you turn the fan to normal mode, at the cruise speed, it runs cooler.
Tom
I did a little experimenting of my own with regard to the oil fan. I added a switch at the oil cooler fan itself (passed into the front compartment) which turns the fan to high speed all the time, or back to normal mode. We had a few 104 (weeks) in Atlanta this year and I felt the car was running a bit too hot at times.
I experimented with a few settings on the same day. Around town, the car runs very cool, however, when one gets up to cruise speed (80+), the car appears to actually run hotter with the fan runing in high speed mode. If you turn the fan to normal mode, at the cruise speed, it runs cooler.
Tom
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Tom,
I had not seen that (but then I never looked). I have a switch in my 993 to force the fan to run on high. I use it when stuck in traffic on hot days and it works well. I've not used it on hot days on long cruses as I do them so seldom.
In the Turtle, I have no fans, and no switches (and nothing cloose to any of the stock climate control systems anymore). One day Garrett will finish the conversion of his car to track only, get the obligatory trailer, and not worry about trying to maintain creature comforts. Hell, the only climiate control we need is a cool suit (mine lives in the front trunk).
I had not seen that (but then I never looked). I have a switch in my 993 to force the fan to run on high. I use it when stuck in traffic on hot days and it works well. I've not used it on hot days on long cruses as I do them so seldom.
In the Turtle, I have no fans, and no switches (and nothing cloose to any of the stock climate control systems anymore). One day Garrett will finish the conversion of his car to track only, get the obligatory trailer, and not worry about trying to maintain creature comforts. Hell, the only climiate control we need is a cool suit (mine lives in the front trunk).
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Hey Guys!
Dave - removal wasn't too hard but I already had the lower dash removed which makes accessing the duct-work much easier. I did not remove my gas tank - it is connected with flexible lines - you can disconnect the fuel pump 3 bolts, and this will permit you to scoot the tank forward and angle it permitting withdrawal of the monster ventilation system. For months I've been eyeing it, thinking of removing it. Decided to bite the bullet since my next race I'll be running GT-2S class, so I'm trying to strip every ounce I can to just try to keep up!!!!
Tom - what did you do to plug the firewall behind the gas tank? Or did you leave it open (used to be covered by the vents)? Did you keep the central electric, or re-wire all of that? One day I'll get a trailer once I turbocharge my car (!!!) since it will lose its CA registration abilities most likely!!! My wife says I have to wait a bit for now... still have one more bathroom I have to finish remodeling!
Dave - removal wasn't too hard but I already had the lower dash removed which makes accessing the duct-work much easier. I did not remove my gas tank - it is connected with flexible lines - you can disconnect the fuel pump 3 bolts, and this will permit you to scoot the tank forward and angle it permitting withdrawal of the monster ventilation system. For months I've been eyeing it, thinking of removing it. Decided to bite the bullet since my next race I'll be running GT-2S class, so I'm trying to strip every ounce I can to just try to keep up!!!!
Tom - what did you do to plug the firewall behind the gas tank? Or did you leave it open (used to be covered by the vents)? Did you keep the central electric, or re-wire all of that? One day I'll get a trailer once I turbocharge my car (!!!) since it will lose its CA registration abilities most likely!!! My wife says I have to wait a bit for now... still have one more bathroom I have to finish remodeling!
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Aluminum sheet to cover the holes ...
Original wires remain for now. That project would come if/when I do the next round of weight reduction to get to the 2100 lb target. I have removed what excess wire I can though.
Original wires remain for now. That project would come if/when I do the next round of weight reduction to get to the 2100 lb target. I have removed what excess wire I can though.
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A shot of the "full" trunk. The fuel cell is obvious. The dual master cylinders are to the right, with the relocated reservoir. The cool suit cooler for those hot track days (putting it up front makes access easy and allows room for a passenger seat a student rides). The hose is my lone duct to bring fresh air to the driver. The baby battery (Odyssey) is tucked into the lower left in the photo and out of view.