I'm obviously insane
#16
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like I can buy your car at a discount!
When I rebuilt my motor i checked into the 3.8 option. I decided it was way too much $$ for very little in return. (aside from the bragging value). A 3.8 increase alone isnt going to do much for power.
Kirk
When I rebuilt my motor i checked into the 3.8 option. I decided it was way too much $$ for very little in return. (aside from the bragging value). A 3.8 increase alone isnt going to do much for power.
Kirk
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by KirkF
Sounds like I can buy your car at a discount!
When I rebuilt my motor i checked into the 3.8 option. I decided it was way too much $$ for very little in return. (aside from the bragging value). A 3.8 increase alone isnt going to do much for power.
Kirk
When I rebuilt my motor i checked into the 3.8 option. I decided it was way too much $$ for very little in return. (aside from the bragging value). A 3.8 increase alone isnt going to do much for power.
Kirk
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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Originally Posted by NinetyOneC2
I'll take $29,000 CDN.
Then you contemplate building a 3.8l. That'll take all of $10k to do it right. Then you dream of Speedlines(don't we all). Another $6k. All USD's.
Based on your first thoughts, Indy's talking logic. Based on your following thoughts, he's made some good observations. :-)
It is interesting to note your strong sentiments toward a '91 Porsche, while you enjoy an '06 650i.
As you say, you're only 31. Plenty of time to renew your relationship with another Porsche. Best wishes on your decision, but I'd be casting a critical look at that BMW. Then with the Porsche, fix only what is broken and drive it.
It really is a beautiful car!
Noah
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
the 650 is long gone and it was a company car just as the X5 is.
i didn't realize the rims were so much $$$. same for the 3.8 (i've done a few searches subsequent to making my remarks). i hail from corvettes...damn they are cheap to upgrade and repair.
In all seriousness the cars are more money up here. take a look at the junk on trader.ca. I bought the car out west because its super nice. at the end of the day if i can't get reasonable money for it i'll keep it.
i do rather like it.
i didn't realize the rims were so much $$$. same for the 3.8 (i've done a few searches subsequent to making my remarks). i hail from corvettes...damn they are cheap to upgrade and repair.
In all seriousness the cars are more money up here. take a look at the junk on trader.ca. I bought the car out west because its super nice. at the end of the day if i can't get reasonable money for it i'll keep it.
i do rather like it.
#21
When you said "most cylinders are OK but 3 is 24-40% down and 4 is up to 90% down. Auguste was saying that the valves were seating just by rocking the engine and thus giving an almost perfect result as well", what did they mean? What were wrong with the valves?
I am curious as to why rocking the engine would cause the valve to seat.
I am curious as to why rocking the engine would cause the valve to seat.
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by axl911
When you said "most cylinders are OK but 3 is 24-40% down and 4 is up to 90% down. Auguste was saying that the valves were seating just by rocking the engine and thus giving an almost perfect result as well", what did they mean? What were wrong with the valves?
I am curious as to why rocking the engine would cause the valve to seat.
I am curious as to why rocking the engine would cause the valve to seat.
Maybe someone that knows more can elaborate.
like I said earlier...the car drives perfectly but has a rough idle.
#23
Originally Posted by Bearclaw
I still have some problems with what these shops were telling you, regardless of their credentials. You didn't know you had a problem until they told you, and I'm thinking that job is a major money-maker for them. If a valve isn't sealing and you end up roasting it and the seat somewhere down the road, I'm thinking the worst that happens is you do a top-end job, which is what you're looking at anyway. I think this whole turn of events is a sign that screams, "Keep It!".
My wife says "Just make up your mind!"
See, she's not saying "You said you were going to sell it!!".
Women admire decisiveness. Step up. Tell her you're keeping that beautiful car, and that's that.
My two cents.
My wife says "Just make up your mind!"
See, she's not saying "You said you were going to sell it!!".
Women admire decisiveness. Step up. Tell her you're keeping that beautiful car, and that's that.
My two cents.
#24
Drifting
Join Date: Jun 2006
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This particular buyer is in the driver's seat (no pun intended) on price negotiations due to the leak down test results, the history report showing previous collision damage, etc. If you make a deal with this guy, you are going to take a beating on the deal, and he is accumulating lots of ammunition for negotiations. I think that unless you REALLY need to sell the car for financial reasons, you tell this potential buyer that you've changed your mind and just keep it and drive it for a while. Just take a deep breath and walk away. This will give you a chance to 1) enjoy the car for a while, 2) decided what the car REALLY needs in terms of work, if any in the near term, 3) have some time to re-think your wants and desires with regard to houses and cars. It all comes down to re-evaluating the validity of the reasons that are driving you to sell it right now.
Just my initial thoughts intended for entertainment purposes only. No liability is expressed or implied should you follow my obviously flawed advice.
Just my initial thoughts intended for entertainment purposes only. No liability is expressed or implied should you follow my obviously flawed advice.
#25
Nordschleife Master
"I'm not going any lower and I'm leaning towards just driving it until it becomes a major problem."
Nothing good will come from waiting .
The cost for fixing the problem will only go up .
The cost could go way way waaaaaaay up .
Lucky for you , you know that the guides need work .
Fix them before the valve and or seat gets beat and or burnt to death .
Fix them before the valve head snaps off .
Puting off the needed repairs = you nuts !
Nothing good will come from waiting .
The cost for fixing the problem will only go up .
The cost could go way way waaaaaaay up .
Lucky for you , you know that the guides need work .
Fix them before the valve and or seat gets beat and or burnt to death .
Fix them before the valve head snaps off .
Puting off the needed repairs = you nuts !
#26
Nordschleife Master
"I am curious as to why rocking the engine would cause the valve to seat."
The valve stem is pushed back and forth when the motor is rocked back and forth .
When the stem is in the right spot , the valve and valve seat get together and seal .
The valve stem is pushed back and forth when the motor is rocked back and forth .
When the stem is in the right spot , the valve and valve seat get together and seal .
#27
Has a compression test been done in addition to the leak done test? A 90% leak down is obviously very severe and a properly done compression test should confirm the problem cylinder. I am surprised that the engine runs as well as you report with the amount of leak down. I am wondering if the leak down test was done correctly.
#28
Indycam,
"I am curious as to why rocking the engine would cause the valve to seat."
The valve stem is pushed back and forth when the motor is rocked back and forth .
When the stem is in the right spot , the valve and valve seat get together and seal .
I'd like to understand what is the problem with the valve here. It's obvious that there is a leak in the valve seal. You think the valve bent, cracked, or burned? Worn valve guide would not show up in a leakdown (unless it wobbles so much), and the engine only need 1 quart of oil every 2K miles.
"I am curious as to why rocking the engine would cause the valve to seat."
The valve stem is pushed back and forth when the motor is rocked back and forth .
When the stem is in the right spot , the valve and valve seat get together and seal .
I'd like to understand what is the problem with the valve here. It's obvious that there is a leak in the valve seal. You think the valve bent, cracked, or burned? Worn valve guide would not show up in a leakdown (unless it wobbles so much), and the engine only need 1 quart of oil every 2K miles.
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The story has an ending...I agreed to sell it.
Thanks for the lively input.
Thanks for the lively input.