boxsey911

Although searching has thrown up lots of information I need about brakes there is one small item I've not been able to find guidance on.

How would you recommend I bung up the brake line to stop fluid leakage when removing a caliper? I want to remove/change the spring plates and guess this would be easier done with the caliper on a bench.

Oh! and when I bleed the brakes afterwards will stock Dot4 fluid be OK for topping up?

Rocket Rob

I would use a tool similar to this rubber hose clamp to pinch the rubber brake line. I've used them on fuel lines with much success. I'm sure they would work equally well in this situation. I hope this type of tool is available in the UK.

And yes normal DOT4 brake fluid is fine but you may want to buy a higher grade of fluid depending on how you use your car. I use ATE SuperBlue (no affiliation)

boxsey911

Thanks Rob. I hadn't thought of pinching the rubber line. I'm sure I can find a suitable clamp for that and I agree about changing to something like Superblue when I'm ready for a fluid change. I've only just started tracking but I've already got the bug!

Geoffrey

You can use a piece of wood to push the brake pedal down slightly and when you remove the caliper (after opening the bleed screw to remove the pressure) it should not drip.

Superunknown

Boxsey,

WHat exhaust setup have you got? I want to do a few track days but she's just too loud!

boxsey911

Standard cat, standard primary and G-pipe.

She goes on track for the first time at the 911UK evening session at Bedford so I have my fingers crossed that I'll make the 99 Db limit. Although I thought mine was loud, I decided it was quiet compared to all the cars at the RS track day at Oulton that I went to recently. Hence I thought I would try Bedford with the current set up. Worst case is I lose 99 quid and I just do passenger rides.

Even if the G-pipe passes I'm thinking of putting a standard secondary muffler on and then maybe dropping the primary and putting a cup pipe on to restore a bit of growl and save weight.

All comments appreciated on this


p.s. Thanks Geoffrey for the block of wood tip - probably better than asking the wife to sit in the car for an hour with her foot on the brake

cobalt

I do the same, although I also take some old hose (brake hose) that has a slightly smaller inside dia than the flared end of the hard line and fill one end with silicone. Once dry slip it over the end of the line and it will prevent any additional fluid from leaking. That is if you are worried about extra fluid from making a mess.

GG Allin

Let us know how those spring plates go, I've heard they're a bitch. I need to do mine, at least one of them.

boxsey911

I ended up leaving the spring plates alone because once I'd got the pads out, it became clear that the plates in the two pot calipers are different to the 4 pots*. The plates I'd purchased were therefore of no use and will be put away until it's time to change the pads in the front calipers. So until I upgrade the calipers, it looks like pre-grinding new pads will be a regular job.

*The 2 pot plates are more like half plates and there are 4 of them in each caliper. The strange thing is, these plates are not even shown in the diagram of the caliper on the on-line 964 parts catalogue and therefore there is no parts number

LouZ

I bought 2 used calipers to replace my 2 piston guys in the fall last year. Just finished replacing mine last week (a 3 month project).

The spring plates are held in by 2 Torx screws each side. The screws are in with permanent Loctite, and the easiest method is to heat them with an Acytelene torch till they are cherry red, heat, allow to cool for 10 seconds - heat, allow to cool 10 sec - heat, cool (this will allow the heat to travel completely down the screw shaft to break the Loctite bond (needs +600 F).

Then you could TRY to get them out with the Torx, or use a cold chisle and tap the head in a CCW direction till the screw breaks loose. Then it is just a matter of removing the screws, and taking out the plates.

You will need to thoroughly clean the aluminum behind the plates, repaint for corrosion protection, and reinstall (you will likely need new screws).

My spring plates were bent from the corrosion built up behind them, that after playing with the originals for weeks, bending and banging to get them perfectly flat, I gave up and did the smart thing - I ordered new ones from Sunset Porsche (at a discount, 4 new ones + the screws, with Loctite, were included - cost around $75 delivered....that is for 2 calipers).

kusee pee

[QUOTE=boxsey911]She goes on track for the first time at the 911UK evening session at Bedford so I have my fingers crossed that I'll make the 99 Db limit. Although I thought mine was loud, I decided it was quiet compared to all the cars at the RS track day at Oulton that I went to recently. Hence I thought I would try Bedford with the current set up. Worst case is I lose 99 quid and I just do passenger rides.

Even if the G-pipe passes I'm thinking of putting a standard secondary muffler on and then maybe dropping the primary and putting a cup pipe on to restore a bit of growl and save weight.

All comments appreciated on this QUOTE]

Good to see her getting her first bit of track action Can't believe you want to lose that G-pipe sound tho. It always strikes me as ironic that there are noise limits for trackdays seeing as 99% of race cars will be twice as loud as any road car....

boxsey911

Hi mate, unfortunately that's the way it's going. The G pipe not only makes a great sound but it sheds pounds which is good for the performance. But none of that is any good if you get banned from the track . Hence it's got to go in the cupboard soon and be replaced by something quieter.