$13 Window Switch from Automotion?
07-08-2006, 02:35 AM
#16
Race Director
Originally Posted by targatime
my latest switch lasted 3 weeks....does anyone have that beat?
07-12-2006, 05:57 PM
#17
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Location: Dayton, OH, USA
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Got the order from Automotion/Performance Products in today (also got hood shocks, which seem to be disposable as well)..
Switches were a plug and play swap. Work fine. Tried them about 5 times each way without breakage.
They had a 964.xxxx part number.. but not Porsche-OEM at $13 I am sure.
We'll see how long they last.. I have to put my drivers window down all the way to enter a punch code every time I come home to the garage... So it'll get its use!
Regards,
Mike
1990 964 C4 Targa
Switches were a plug and play swap. Work fine. Tried them about 5 times each way without breakage.
They had a 964.xxxx part number.. but not Porsche-OEM at $13 I am sure.
We'll see how long they last.. I have to put my drivers window down all the way to enter a punch code every time I come home to the garage... So it'll get its use!
Regards,
Mike
1990 964 C4 Targa
07-12-2006, 10:54 PM
#18
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Location: Fairfax Station, Va. USA
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I just posted this the other day. It's a very simple DIY. Of course, if the rocker switch is the part that's broken you'll have to affect the repair some other way. the switch is a very simple device.
This morning the driver's side window went down as it should. But it wouldn't close. To repair: Simply (and easily) pry the faulty switch from the inner door panel (no need to remove the panel). Once the switch is removed, disconnect the wiring connect (it simply pulls off); ensure that the wiring connector doesn't fall back inside the door panel. On your workbench, carefully remove the topmost trim around the rocker switch itself. I used a small-bladed screwdriver. Work around the perimeter gently and the trim piece will come off; it is just a press fit. With the rocker switch facing UP, gently pull the rocker up and lay it aside. Inside the switch you should now be seeing two copper contact switches that simply clip into the plastic switch housing. Remove them and clean the contacts with sandpaper (i used 400 grit although any sandpaper should work), steel wool, Scotchbrite pad, etc. In addition, I scraped the contacts inside the switch housing, although in all fairness there did not seem to be much corrosion on them. There WAS corrosion on the copper contacts. Reassembly is the reverse, of course. Once reinstalled, the window opened and closed as it should. This took maybe 20 minutes.
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This morning the driver's side window went down as it should. But it wouldn't close. To repair: Simply (and easily) pry the faulty switch from the inner door panel (no need to remove the panel). Once the switch is removed, disconnect the wiring connect (it simply pulls off); ensure that the wiring connector doesn't fall back inside the door panel. On your workbench, carefully remove the topmost trim around the rocker switch itself. I used a small-bladed screwdriver. Work around the perimeter gently and the trim piece will come off; it is just a press fit. With the rocker switch facing UP, gently pull the rocker up and lay it aside. Inside the switch you should now be seeing two copper contact switches that simply clip into the plastic switch housing. Remove them and clean the contacts with sandpaper (i used 400 grit although any sandpaper should work), steel wool, Scotchbrite pad, etc. In addition, I scraped the contacts inside the switch housing, although in all fairness there did not seem to be much corrosion on them. There WAS corrosion on the copper contacts. Reassembly is the reverse, of course. Once reinstalled, the window opened and closed as it should. This took maybe 20 minutes.
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07-13-2006, 03:34 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by sundog
no returns on electrical parts!
Originally Posted by Richard Curtis
if the rocker switch is the part that's broken you'll have to affect the repair some other way
