markc123

I have rebuilt quite a few of these twin distributors and seldom come across a bad hall effect sensor.. There is not much that can go bad, other than a broken wire or a broken magnet.
mark

Lorenfb

"Loren, With all due respect I am not sure this is correct, I had a broken wire on my dizzy hall sesnor and the car did undeed run, but not "fine", it would idle very rough, drop revs when the accelerator was touched, be difficult to get away at lights and the the power was noticeably reduced." - Youcef -

The acid test is to now unplug the Hall sensor and see what happens with a good
running engine. That way you'll know its real effect, and you can report to 964 thread
so others can use that info in the future.

Actually, if the main Hall sensor wire, not its ground or power,
"hangs/floats", it may pickup noise causing a poor running mode.
That input needs to be grounded to avoid RFI.

dutchcrunch

seems to me that i doubt that your distributor needs to be replaced, should be able to do some type of test to confirm. not saying your mechanic is wrong but, your milagae is low and i think if it was running fine before it should be ok. why not leave it alone and when you get your car back drive it, see how it runs. seems people get that fault when there is a problem with spark plug wires. if someone changed the belt in the dustibutor it is possible that they did not insert the pins back all the way and your not getting good contact when the plug is connected. sometime you have the bend the barb on the wire spade that creates the locking effect into the plastic housing. i think it something minor and can be fixed with a little more looking into the distibutor. when was the last time the distributor belt was changed?????

dutchcrunch

one more question, on the 60k service did they replace your distibutor belt???

SNOWBIRD

The distributor came with everything new, belt, caps, rotors etc. My instructions to the shop were to go through the car like it was yours and have no clue to what has or has not been done to it in it's 58,000 miles. Was the sensor really bad? I'm not doubting the guy, he instilled confidence. There were several 964's in the shop, and they were definately among the 'low end' cars there.

Add to that, after my initial post, markc PM'd me asking if I'd sell the old one. He was nice enough to offer what Pelican gets for a core charge.... I, being a nice guy sent the shop a email telling him to hold on to it for me, this was his response;

"Yes there is a core charge, and your old one has already been cored in. If I had known you might want to keep it I could of, but then you'd have to pay the charge.

The good news is the new one is in with the vent kit and all the problems related to the hall sender are gone."
So yes, I believe the sensor was bad.


After all the doomsday posts if the belt breaks, I have been driving around for a year wondering if my number was going to come up... While doing the search on the distributor I came across this thread.... https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...stributor+belt
Adrian says it ain't so, explains why. I believe I have been saddled with that stress for a year for nothing.

Red rooster

All this talk of pulling plug wires is worrying ! Two reasons . It could be fatal if you happen to have the right physical conditions ! It puts undue stress on the Ignition module coil driver output which could lead to module failure - costly !

The smart way to test the dual ignition sytem is to pull the plug off one module and start the motor.If that is OK turn off, replace the plug , then pull the other module plug and repeat. The modules are mounted on a bracket below the coils.
Pulling a plug on a module removes all drive to its coil in a harmless way.
Failure to start tells you there is a problem on that ignition cicuit , usually the belt.
Just trying to keep you guys away from harm

All the best

Geoff

pp000830

Isn't that like 'while I'm in there" the most suspect statement in all of automotive repairdome?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Only to a dishonest enterprise.