Cab top tension wires removal
 

The end is broken of one of the wires on my wife's '91 cab top, located just above the window. I took the two screws out that would seem to hold the wire in place, but cannot get it to release. What is holding it in place? :confused:

Hi Jerry

Just did mine recently.

They look like bycycle cables with two hooks on each end. I got a fishing lure for shark fishing its made of stainless steel coated in nylon. They will never snap due to corrosion.

At the rear of the hood there is one hook held to the frame by a philips head bolt. You will find the nut under the roll over bar. Remove the large nylon cover panel held down by about 10 screws in all.

The next screw along the hood holds a small tab where the wire runs though.

Finally you will need to remove the seal that is above the window. This is done by pulling the rubber seal out first. This exposes about 6 screws that hold the fabric seal in place, this is backed by an aluminium track to give it rigidity.

When this is removed you will see the other end of the tension wire. It is attached to a large spring that gives the wire tension. Once you see this it will all make sense.

Do a search and using the words "cabroilet tension" or somethign similar and one of the guys has some pictures which will help you out. I think he was replacing his hood DIY and took plenty of picture. One thing I always forget to do.

Thks
Rob
91 964 Cab
Jersey, UK

Hi Jerry,
I managed to do the broken one over the my passenger window without removing the rubber seals. Here are some tips.

- The two screws you mention - the back one holds the back end of the cable - the front one is not the front of the cable, but holds a "guide" that allows the cable to smoothly go into the car.

- If you sit inside the car and locate roughly where that front screw is, put you hand over the lip inside the roof (above the window) and you should be able to feel the cable. It actually attaches to a spring and is attached using a nut and bolt (8mm as I recall).

With the tension taken off the cable (by removing the back screw), you should be able to work the front end (together with spring and nut/bolt) from within the car. It's fiddly, but with the spring stretched a little it can be undone and the cable removed. Refitting is kind-of a reversal of the above, but is just as fiddly ;o)

I notice Rob mentioned they can't snap due to corrosion, which although they shouldn't mine had which is why I replaced it (I had a flapping roof/wind noise when driving at anything above low speeds) - I suspect that the stainless used is not very high grade (e.g. marine/316 grade) and so can rot under certain conditions.

BTW, did you get the part number for the cable? - I entered a thread on this some time ago and it can be found on the forum somewhere - I had problems getting the right part from Porsche and they sent me the wrong thing - the actual part number is a 911 number, not a 964 number. If you want me to locate the full number, just let me know.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Paul

Paul

Thank you so much for the input. I do remember your earlier post. The back loop on my cable is the one that broke, so taking tension off it is no problem. I am not going to order a Porsche replacement, but will fabricate the wire in a similar approach to Rob's. My wife is getting a bit cranky about the somewhat ratty wrinkle caused by the broken wire. I can't put it off any longer.