citychap26

Hi Guys,

How easy is it to fit break pads to the 964? I have been told my front ones are missing the anti sqeal pads and the rear ones are really low.

I have looked on Pelican Parts for a how to. Has anyone seen anyothers?

I'd rather have a go myself. Having seen how easy it was on my MGF.

Cheers

Sunil

Richard H

Easy on a 964 unless the spring plates have corrosion behind them then they can be dificult to pull out. If the plates have lifted then you face either having new ones fitted or filing the edges of pad to get them to fit.
The anti squeal shims are also stuck to the back of the pad so make sure you have released them before pulling the pad!!!
I'm sure there are quite a few posts on the actual process so it's probably a good idea to read those first.

Good luck

Richard 1990 C2

Rocket Rob

Sunil,

I found this article to be very helpful when I changed my pads for the first time. Although its written specifically for the 993, the process is the same. http://p-car.com/diy/brakepads/

citychap26

Hi Guys,

Looks good... I'll have to invest some time in doing them soon.

Shame they don't explain how to do the rear ones too.

Cheers

Sunil

PS looking at pads now, it TEXTAR good ?

Marc Shaw

Rears on a C4 are exactly the same as the front ones. Don't forget to either replace (or discard) the brake wear sensors as I'm told they usually brake coming out so are hard to re-ruse (I just removed mine).

No experience with Textar but I've got Ferodo and find them quite good for street and (limited/novice) track use - a little more dust than OEM but very quiet.

Marc

craig001

Pads are real easy to replace.

If you have the oddball calipers in the rear the procedure is a little different from the front. Wayne Dempsey's 101 Projects has the procedure for the rears in the early C2's as it's the same as the late Carrera's. It's just a matter of pulling the retaining clips on the guide rods and then sliding the rods out. A 4mm punch really helps for pushing the rods out of the caliper. As other folks have mentioned some of it will depend on if the anti-squeal devices stay attached to your pads.

While you are in there you should check your rotors for wear either with a caliper of just feel the lip on the outer edge. You might want to repack your wheel bearings as well.

I also painted the rotor hats with VHT Silver and then clearcoated them with VHT Clear. It's much easy to do the painting with the rotors off the car. It's a little thing that many people won't even notice. I'm hoping that brake dust won't adhere as easily to the painted rotors. I'll try to remember to take a picture or two before putting the wheels back on the car this afternoon.

Greg_L

Sunil, i'm pretty sure TEXTAR are the ones Porsche rebadge. They are identical down to the serial numbers etc..... good man for going DIY - its very simple. The only thing that caught me out was the antisqueal shims, these have sticky backs which glue themselves to the pad, so you'll have to get something nice and thin to gently pry them off before the pad will come out. Think i used an old fish knife !

pete000

I am in the middle of replacing my calipers, rotors and pads. Couple of questions.
1. do you have to replace the anti squeal discs with the spring inserts? Mine broke when trying to pry them off. I have never seen these before on other cars I have done pad changes on.

2. If you leave the wear sensors off will this cause the brake warning lamp to go on? I really don't need those.

Marc Shaw

1. No, you don't have to - I replaced mine with peel and stick anti-squeal pads (same ones as IndyCam, I think) and no problems -- alot easier to replace brake pad next time too!

2. No, you can cut the sensor wire and connect the two leads -- wrap well in shrink wrap tubing and you're all set -- if you are paying attention to your brakes, you should not need them. It is very hard to re-use them as they usually break coming out.

Marc

jimq

Marc
Do you use just a generic anti squeal pad? I need to do my rears and dont want to spend the $30 or so for those mushrooms either. Do you put it across the whole back of the pad or just where the piston is? Mine is the 2 pot old style so pads sure arent cheap. I think I will leave off the sensors also and just keep the ones on the front I replaced not to long ago. At my 2K miles or so a year should be along time before they need doing again!
Thanks

Marc Shaw

Jim:

www.pelicanparts.com search for p/n BR-AS-004 or BR-AS-008

I cut them the same size as the plate the mushrooms were bonded to (so the whole side of brake pad, not just where pistons were).

Marc

Heirsh

I recommend putting those pads on the whole backside of the brake pad backing. You could make a round spot just the size of the caliper piston, but, it could move around. If that pad gets hot enough its adhesive may get softer and allow the pad to work its way to one side. I've never heard or read about this happening, but its not like those pads are $$$ anyway.

I've got hats in the front, pads in the back. Once I got all the air out of the system my squeeling stopped. yippee!

I love the brakes on these cars.

Bill Wagner

I did this job just last week to get rid of squeal in the fronts. My original intent was to replace the original pads with MetalMasters with some of the stick on dampers that Pelican Parts sells, but there was so much pad left that i skipped it and just cleaned the pads off and put on the damping material.

Here are some notes:

1. When the MetalMasters arrived, I realized that already had a damping material on the back, so the additional damping material may not be needed....I'll find out when the pads wear down enough that i actually move to the MetalMasters.

2. The pcar.com site is great...it has two write ups...one with the calipers on and one with them off. I used the write up for doing it with the calipers on.

3. On my C4, it was VERY difficult to get the pads to move back. I had to fabricate a spreader. The spreader was actually made of two spreaders that I got at AutoZone for about $6 each. The spreading plates need to be re-cut so they're about 1/2 inch shorter and the bottom edges ground down, and then the units plates will fit between the two "tabs" on each set of the pads. I removed the spreading plate from one of them, and then let the other remain attached to the driver. I inserted the free spreading plate along side the pad furthest from me, and then took the one with the "driver" still attached along side the pad closest to me, and then started driving the pads apart by pushing against the "tabs" on both of the pads. It takes a surprising amount of force. It's weird because some of my other cars I could almost separate with my fingers alone, and others on this board say they can remove their pads easilly too. Possibly there's a differences, like a really strong check valve in the C4 braking system that doesn't exist on the C2....I don't know. I actually did the rears some time ago, but it was done at a shop when the brakes were being bled and the wrench set it up for me (I think).

3. Once I got the pads separated, i just pulled them out with my fingers. If you separate the pads all the way back, you MAY have enough room to slide the pads forward and remove them without needing to separate the damping plates(if installed). It depends on how much pad you have left. My dampers were in place but they had freed themselves from the pads on both wheels.

4. With my pads out, i just cleaned them, cut the damping material to cover the better part of the pads, and then re-installed them. I didn't re-install the "mushroom cap" dampers.

So far the brakes are now quiet, but then again it's only been a week.

Marc Shaw

I bought the pad spreader and pad puller from www.eagleday.com (http://www.eagleday.com/brmato.html) and they both make a huge difference. No more coat hanger wire wrapped through the pad to pull it out or stuffing bits of wood in to jam the reluctant pistons open!

Marc
ps. No affiliation, etc.

hjcarlin72

Marc,

The pad spreader on Eagle comes in different widths. I have a 90 C2 will the 132MM unit work?