boze_man

Great write up Brian...I am in the process of replacing my caps/rotors and have been using your thread as a DIY...

I did come across this FAQ regarding the application of dielectric grease...

Spark plug connectors too full of silicone grease:

A common cause on engines (particularly those of Japanese origin) which suffer the problem of moisture accumulating in spark plug holes. In the interests of water-proofing the spark plug connectors, well-meaning installers fill an extended spark plug connector with too much silicone dielectric grease, which can prevent the terminal inside from ever locking onto the spark plug top. Driveability problems caused by water in the spark plug holes can be cured by applying a little silicone grease inside the connector bottom seals to prevent arcing or to the porcelain insulator of each spark plug (provided moisture is removed and kept from accumulating in the holes) — however, driveability problems will not be cured if a connector’s terminal cannot connect over a spark plug top because too much silicone grease is stuffed into the connector. Too much grease stuffed into flexible spark plug boots will cause similar problems.

Distributor and/or ignition coil problems:

Spark plug and coil wires can also pop off or out of distributor or ignition coil towers. The usual causes are similar to those that affect the spark plug ends of the wires including, in particular, stuffing too much silicone grease into the wire/s distributor and/or coil boots. In fact, we advise installers never to apply silicone dielectric grease inside a distributor or coil boot. If you need to insulate a distributor cap or ignition coil you should apply the silicone grease to the outside of the boot (where the boot meets the distributor cap or ignition coil) — distributor cap and ignition coil towers are tapered, and too much lubrication inside can cause boots to work their way up and off the towers on vehicles that experience considerable vibration.

Some performance aftermarket distributor caps do not have a chamfer at top of the brass inserts into which the wires’ terminals will fit, so care needs to be taken to avoid the wire’s brass distributor terminals being caught on top edges of the inserts and becoming distorted (and too loose in the insert) if terminals are forcibly fitted. Usually, if a brass terminal does become distorted, bending it back to its original shape (compare with an un-distorted terminal on another wire) is all that’s required.


Thanks again to all
Bill

Pesty

Great ,
can you do one for changing the Ignition coils now Thats my next job

Eggplant Cab

Excellent write up. I found the biggest problem wasn't knowing which coil on which terminal but how the wires are routed. Fortunately the pictures here are good enough to trace the paths of the wires.
Also for the lower distributor, if you want to use a cordless screwdriver, you can also remove the fuse box cover on the side (depending on the size of the tool).
Thanks again.