Send me your USED FRONT Rotors??
03-22-2002, 09:35 AM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Send me your USED FRONT Rotors??
Why, you ask? Well, I'm going to try something. I have trashed 3 sets of rotors on my 964 since purchase last May. Mind you, I attend at least 12 DE events a year...so I've been to at least 9, if not 10 with my 964 now.
I always outfit my "Track Rocket" with cross-drilled rotors, after 3-4 events the fronts are fairly cracked, if not broken...and ready for the trash heap.
See picture below...
Last night, as I was eye-balling the stack of rotors I have in my garage, stacked like pancakes, and shaking my head in disgust at the waste of money I've experienced...I realized the four at the bottom were the original non-drilled rotors that I took off upon purchasing my 964. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
I came up with an idea:
Take the two front ones, although used, complete with ridges worn in on the end...to Merchant's or some place and pay the $8 apiece to get them turned. Front rotors are very easy to change out on the 964...so, if a set of used, and turned front rotors could get me through 2 weekends before they're cracked beyond being usable...then great!
My plan is to change the front rotors out when I change my street pads for racing ones and bolting my on track wheels/tires - my routine before heading off for a track weekend.
That way I could "seat" the racing pads onto their applicable rotor, attend the event, come back home and put the nice street rotors back on, with their "mate" pads...once again, keeping a properly "seated" pad with it's mate rotor...I know, this is sounding more like the Discovery Channel!
...but I just want to try it, for a few sets, for 2002 - if it works, then I would've saved about $350 in rotors for the remainder of 2002, and kept my street pads from having to smooth out the horribly rough/cracked rotors upon returning from the track and vice-versa, my EXPENSIVE racing pads to have to "seat" on the rotor everytime I change them.
I don't think it's too bad an idea. Does anyone have a pair of slightly used, (ot cracked, warped badly or just plain trashed)FRONT rotors they could send me? I'll pay shipping and be sure to keep in touch with you about your beloved rotors...I might even send pics. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
I always outfit my "Track Rocket" with cross-drilled rotors, after 3-4 events the fronts are fairly cracked, if not broken...and ready for the trash heap.
See picture below...
Last night, as I was eye-balling the stack of rotors I have in my garage, stacked like pancakes, and shaking my head in disgust at the waste of money I've experienced...I realized the four at the bottom were the original non-drilled rotors that I took off upon purchasing my 964. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
I came up with an idea:
Take the two front ones, although used, complete with ridges worn in on the end...to Merchant's or some place and pay the $8 apiece to get them turned. Front rotors are very easy to change out on the 964...so, if a set of used, and turned front rotors could get me through 2 weekends before they're cracked beyond being usable...then great!
My plan is to change the front rotors out when I change my street pads for racing ones and bolting my on track wheels/tires - my routine before heading off for a track weekend.
That way I could "seat" the racing pads onto their applicable rotor, attend the event, come back home and put the nice street rotors back on, with their "mate" pads...once again, keeping a properly "seated" pad with it's mate rotor...I know, this is sounding more like the Discovery Channel!
...but I just want to try it, for a few sets, for 2002 - if it works, then I would've saved about $350 in rotors for the remainder of 2002, and kept my street pads from having to smooth out the horribly rough/cracked rotors upon returning from the track and vice-versa, my EXPENSIVE racing pads to have to "seat" on the rotor everytime I change them.
I don't think it's too bad an idea. Does anyone have a pair of slightly used, (ot cracked, warped badly or just plain trashed)FRONT rotors they could send me? I'll pay shipping and be sure to keep in touch with you about your beloved rotors...I might even send pics. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
03-22-2002, 03:05 PM
#3
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Save your money and buy the $64 a piece rotors from Vertex or Zims, non-drilled, nono-slotted, non-anything, and use them instead. It's always worked for me and my car is a track dedicated car now. They wear better than my slotted or drilled rotors ever did.
You can ask Mr. Carrera 51 how hard I brake into turn one at Summit. I am not very kind to my brakes at all. The cheapo rotors take it all and never crack. Since they're so cheap, once they're halfway worn, I just spend $120 or so and buy another set. Granted, the non-drilled rotors aren't has pretty as the solid rotors, but hey, not having brakes isn't pretty either.
You can ask Mr. Carrera 51 how hard I brake into turn one at Summit. I am not very kind to my brakes at all. The cheapo rotors take it all and never crack. Since they're so cheap, once they're halfway worn, I just spend $120 or so and buy another set. Granted, the non-drilled rotors aren't has pretty as the solid rotors, but hey, not having brakes isn't pretty either.
03-22-2002, 03:55 PM
#4
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Jeff:
Mr.(3rd at Sebring) Alban does brake really hard (and late) going into turn 1 at SP. My advice, BIG REDS BABY! I've had them the 51 car for almost 2 years. Believe it or not, after 5 races and a lot of DE I am still using the original rotors, though Mid Ohio may finish them off.
Mr.(3rd at Sebring) Alban does brake really hard (and late) going into turn 1 at SP. My advice, BIG REDS BABY! I've had them the 51 car for almost 2 years. Believe it or not, after 5 races and a lot of DE I am still using the original rotors, though Mid Ohio may finish them off.
03-22-2002, 05:43 PM
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
I appreciate the advice/suggestions to no end.
My Engineering Mind is just going crazy with ideas and I thought, "what the hell...try it!"
I turned in the rotors about an hour ago, $7 each to get turned...and we'll find out how my "recycling" idea works out. The main objective is to see if one can get a few weekends out of someones "old" rotors, that were about to be discarded anyway! After all, these rotors usually aren't cracked or trashed, just grooved or have that nice "ridge" on the outside of them when someone replaces them.
I plan to have my "pretty set" for the street...and trash someone elses trash!
Recall: one man's trash is another man's treasure!
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Thanks for the help...you Potomac guys are too much, Manny, you know you really are a Potomac guy...right?
My Engineering Mind is just going crazy with ideas and I thought, "what the hell...try it!"
I turned in the rotors about an hour ago, $7 each to get turned...and we'll find out how my "recycling" idea works out. The main objective is to see if one can get a few weekends out of someones "old" rotors, that were about to be discarded anyway! After all, these rotors usually aren't cracked or trashed, just grooved or have that nice "ridge" on the outside of them when someone replaces them.
I plan to have my "pretty set" for the street...and trash someone elses trash!
Recall: one man's trash is another man's treasure!
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Thanks for the help...you Potomac guys are too much, Manny, you know you really are a Potomac guy...right?
03-22-2002, 07:29 PM
#6
Race Car
Thread Starter
CORRECTION from last post...getting the rotors turned was FREE! Although I did tip the spirited guy $10...yeah, I'm cheap.
I dunno, they look pretty nice, I think they'll beat a set of $140 Vertex rotors shipped to my front door step anyday??
See for yourself...
Someone may say that they'll be too thin now...not the case here. They just needed to be turned a bit to get the ridges out and provide a "fresh" surface for my race pads to "seat" properly and wallah! ...they should work like a champ.
Original thickness rotors were designed to go @50K miles...these are only intended to go @6-700 TRACK miles...so when they get hot, they'll crack like the others...then I toss them and smile when thinking about the $10 it cost!
Does anybody else have a pair of front rotors off a 964 that were just used on the street, maybe a few Autocrosses they would be willing to send me? I'd like to try this out on a few sets.
The worst that can happen is that I figure out something's not working out with my idea...but at least I had a weight savings!
Then all I have to do is reach into the back of my truck and pull out a set of my shiney new rotors (that were intended for the street) and "pop" them on at the track.
Just a simple idea...we'll see how it works...now if I could just figure out a "plan" for cheaper racing pads!! <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
I dunno, they look pretty nice, I think they'll beat a set of $140 Vertex rotors shipped to my front door step anyday??
See for yourself...
Someone may say that they'll be too thin now...not the case here. They just needed to be turned a bit to get the ridges out and provide a "fresh" surface for my race pads to "seat" properly and wallah! ...they should work like a champ.
Original thickness rotors were designed to go @50K miles...these are only intended to go @6-700 TRACK miles...so when they get hot, they'll crack like the others...then I toss them and smile when thinking about the $10 it cost!
Does anybody else have a pair of front rotors off a 964 that were just used on the street, maybe a few Autocrosses they would be willing to send me? I'd like to try this out on a few sets.
The worst that can happen is that I figure out something's not working out with my idea...but at least I had a weight savings!
Then all I have to do is reach into the back of my truck and pull out a set of my shiney new rotors (that were intended for the street) and "pop" them on at the track.
Just a simple idea...we'll see how it works...now if I could just figure out a "plan" for cheaper racing pads!! <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
03-23-2002, 10:11 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Jeff;
I like your idea, but there is a finite thinckness of a rotor for safety. I'll get that number on monday and E-mail you. I want you to be safe if we end up on the same track.
As an engineer, you should understand the properties of heat sink and the need for a level of thickness to maintian braking. That's why we use larger brakes, the ability to disperse heat and not have the rotors go bad. when i think of the time and dribbiling of dollars, you will end up with spending the cost of either good rotors or the cost of the Brembo Rig red set up. these brakes will not stop your car better. they will asorb the heat better and give significantly longer life.
I hve some 964 rotors out back, and will measure them and let you know if they will work, but if you want long life, consistant brakes, drop me a line off line
andy
I like your idea, but there is a finite thinckness of a rotor for safety. I'll get that number on monday and E-mail you. I want you to be safe if we end up on the same track.
As an engineer, you should understand the properties of heat sink and the need for a level of thickness to maintian braking. That's why we use larger brakes, the ability to disperse heat and not have the rotors go bad. when i think of the time and dribbiling of dollars, you will end up with spending the cost of either good rotors or the cost of the Brembo Rig red set up. these brakes will not stop your car better. they will asorb the heat better and give significantly longer life.
I hve some 964 rotors out back, and will measure them and let you know if they will work, but if you want long life, consistant brakes, drop me a line off line
andy
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03-23-2002, 12:26 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Jeff- Are you class limited on rotor size, or limited to 16" wheels? If not, I would definitely move up to 322 mm rotors in the 3.6 Turbo style with a bigger caliper to go along with assembly. The 3.6 Turbo has around 18% more heat sink available on the inside surface of the disc compared to the earlier Turbo discs which use the S-4 caliper-a nice advantage. You will need to get caliper adaptors from someone like FVD. The cheapest way to go-around $750 total factory calipers, discs from Hendrick- with modified 928 GTS calipers. These are identical to big reds but cheaper and black so your competition does not get jealous. You will need to flip the crossover pipes and bleeder screws so piston orientation is right, however-about a 10 minute job. Installed with a fresh set of Zimmerman factory discs and you are much better off; a huge increase in heat sink for both the disc and caliper plus much bigger pads for less thermal shock-wear- there as well. I bet you will save the cost of conversion in short order plus have better braking.
03-23-2002, 12:56 PM
#9
Race Car
Thread Starter
Again, thanks for all the advice about upgrading...just NOT ready for that as of yet...it's a $$$$$$ thing, I KNOW you understand.
Also, yes, I am trying to stay within "F" class rules for PCA Club Sport, just for the simple reason that if I take the plunge, I won't be scrambling around to "downgrade" the car to run in that class. Besides, I don't think it's fun to go out on track with BIG Reds, you name it, and blow away everyone else that's out there having fun...I like to do it with a moderately modified car - NOT a beast. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
That's also the same reason that I sold most of my HP mods. Things may change, but for now I just want to try my idea.
If minimum thickness of the rotor has been compromised, and it causes issues after a few sessions...it's as simple as swapping out the rotors for a good set, that's all. I think the set I have ready will do just fine for two weekends, if not...a $10 loss and a good chuckle. I don't think anything is going to meltdown and break, sending me into a wall or another driver...if there are any issues with what I'm doing, it will be fairly obvious.
I'm not looking at being cheap, unsafe -or- just doing anything that would brand me an idiot...again, I just want to try a few sets to satisfy the curiosity in me.
I know that there are several ways to get better braking, and yes, I do understand the heat sink principle.
Andy, if you do have a set of factory rotors that were just changed out due to wear or ridges -or- for just the plain fact that the owner wanted new ones...by all means, send 'em to me! Even if the minimum thickness is shy a couple MM, it's not going to matter as I just want to see if they'll suffice for two weekends...NOT 10K miles! These rotors are thick as hell, a few MM off them isn't going to make a bit of difference in my book.
Let me know, I'll take 'em. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
Also, yes, I am trying to stay within "F" class rules for PCA Club Sport, just for the simple reason that if I take the plunge, I won't be scrambling around to "downgrade" the car to run in that class. Besides, I don't think it's fun to go out on track with BIG Reds, you name it, and blow away everyone else that's out there having fun...I like to do it with a moderately modified car - NOT a beast. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
That's also the same reason that I sold most of my HP mods. Things may change, but for now I just want to try my idea.
If minimum thickness of the rotor has been compromised, and it causes issues after a few sessions...it's as simple as swapping out the rotors for a good set, that's all. I think the set I have ready will do just fine for two weekends, if not...a $10 loss and a good chuckle. I don't think anything is going to meltdown and break, sending me into a wall or another driver...if there are any issues with what I'm doing, it will be fairly obvious.
I'm not looking at being cheap, unsafe -or- just doing anything that would brand me an idiot...again, I just want to try a few sets to satisfy the curiosity in me.
I know that there are several ways to get better braking, and yes, I do understand the heat sink principle.
Andy, if you do have a set of factory rotors that were just changed out due to wear or ridges -or- for just the plain fact that the owner wanted new ones...by all means, send 'em to me! Even if the minimum thickness is shy a couple MM, it's not going to matter as I just want to see if they'll suffice for two weekends...NOT 10K miles! These rotors are thick as hell, a few MM off them isn't going to make a bit of difference in my book.
Let me know, I'll take 'em. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
03-29-2002, 05:32 PM
#10
Race Car
Thread Starter
Oh come on!
You can't tell me that only one Rennlister had a decent set of used 964 front rotors to send me??
I want to have 3 sets made up, to date I have two, one set is 27.4mm the other wound up to be a whopping 28.2!!
Both well within the 1.024" spec for minimum thickness...they should do.
Let me know if you have a set laying in the corner just begging to be sent off to duty on the front line.
You can't tell me that only one Rennlister had a decent set of used 964 front rotors to send me??
I want to have 3 sets made up, to date I have two, one set is 27.4mm the other wound up to be a whopping 28.2!!
Both well within the 1.024" spec for minimum thickness...they should do.
Let me know if you have a set laying in the corner just begging to be sent off to duty on the front line.
03-29-2002, 09:53 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Hi Jeff,
I might have a few boat anchors to send you...
The last time I had my wheels off I mic'd my rotors and they're below that 1.024" spec you quoted. Until Bentley comes out with the 964 manual I'm without a spec. book. Just to confirm, that 1.024" is the minimum allowable thickness for front and rear?
Thanks, Kevin
I might have a few boat anchors to send you...
The last time I had my wheels off I mic'd my rotors and they're below that 1.024" spec you quoted. Until Bentley comes out with the 964 manual I'm without a spec. book. Just to confirm, that 1.024" is the minimum allowable thickness for front and rear?
Thanks, Kevin
03-29-2002, 10:14 PM
#12
The 928 caliper is not identical to the Big Red. Besides the obvious items which Cupcar correctly identified the 928 is ~10 mm shorter, thus can be used in 16" rims(atleast the radial clearance is there if 304mm or smaller rotors are used). The 928 is closer to the 993 front caliper, and is the same except for the mounting position with associated plumbing changes.
I do agree 100% with Cupcar that the 993 caliper w 322x32 mm rotor is the way to go as long as class rules allow it.
The only reasonably priced and significantly better option is the 996t caliper with 330x34mm rotor.
I do agree 100% with Cupcar that the 993 caliper w 322x32 mm rotor is the way to go as long as class rules allow it.
The only reasonably priced and significantly better option is the 996t caliper with 330x34mm rotor.
03-31-2002, 06:52 PM
#13
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OK so I know I am a bit late with this reply
All the racing teams I know used slotted disk(rotors) as these do not crack up around the holes like drilled ones.
[quote]Originally posted by Jeff Curtis:
<strong>Why, you ask? Well, I'm going to try something. I have trashed 3 sets of rotors on my 964 since purchase last May. Mind you, I attend at least 12 DE events a year...so I've been to at least 9, if not 10 with my 964 now.
I always outfit my "Track Rocket" with cross-drilled rotors, after 3-4 events the fronts are fairly cracked, if not broken...and ready for the trash heap.
See picture below...
Last night, as I was eye-balling the stack of rotors I have in my garage, stacked like pancakes, and shaking my head in disgust at the waste of money I've experienced...I realized the four at the bottom were the original non-drilled rotors that I took off upon purchasing my 964. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
I came up with an idea:
Take the two front ones, although used, complete with ridges worn in on the end...to Merchant's or some place and pay the $8 apiece to get them turned. Front rotors are very easy to change out on the 964...so, if a set of used, and turned front rotors could get me through 2 weekends before they're cracked beyond being usable...then great!
My plan is to change the front rotors out when I change my street pads for racing ones and bolting my on track wheels/tires - my routine before heading off for a track weekend.
That way I could "seat" the racing pads onto their applicable rotor, attend the event, come back home and put the nice street rotors back on, with their "mate" pads...once again, keeping a properly "seated" pad with it's mate rotor...I know, this is sounding more like the Discovery Channel!
...but I just want to try it, for a few sets, for 2002 - if it works, then I would've saved about $350 in rotors for the remainder of 2002, and kept my street pads from having to smooth out the horribly rough/cracked rotors upon returning from the track and vice-versa, my EXPENSIVE racing pads to have to "seat" on the rotor everytime I change them.
I don't think it's too bad an idea. Does anyone have a pair of slightly used, (ot cracked, warped badly or just plain trashed)FRONT rotors they could send me? I'll pay shipping and be sure to keep in touch with you about your beloved rotors...I might even send pics. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
All the racing teams I know used slotted disk(rotors) as these do not crack up around the holes like drilled ones.
[quote]Originally posted by Jeff Curtis:
<strong>Why, you ask? Well, I'm going to try something. I have trashed 3 sets of rotors on my 964 since purchase last May. Mind you, I attend at least 12 DE events a year...so I've been to at least 9, if not 10 with my 964 now.
I always outfit my "Track Rocket" with cross-drilled rotors, after 3-4 events the fronts are fairly cracked, if not broken...and ready for the trash heap.
See picture below...
Last night, as I was eye-balling the stack of rotors I have in my garage, stacked like pancakes, and shaking my head in disgust at the waste of money I've experienced...I realized the four at the bottom were the original non-drilled rotors that I took off upon purchasing my 964. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
I came up with an idea:
Take the two front ones, although used, complete with ridges worn in on the end...to Merchant's or some place and pay the $8 apiece to get them turned. Front rotors are very easy to change out on the 964...so, if a set of used, and turned front rotors could get me through 2 weekends before they're cracked beyond being usable...then great!
My plan is to change the front rotors out when I change my street pads for racing ones and bolting my on track wheels/tires - my routine before heading off for a track weekend.
That way I could "seat" the racing pads onto their applicable rotor, attend the event, come back home and put the nice street rotors back on, with their "mate" pads...once again, keeping a properly "seated" pad with it's mate rotor...I know, this is sounding more like the Discovery Channel!
...but I just want to try it, for a few sets, for 2002 - if it works, then I would've saved about $350 in rotors for the remainder of 2002, and kept my street pads from having to smooth out the horribly rough/cracked rotors upon returning from the track and vice-versa, my EXPENSIVE racing pads to have to "seat" on the rotor everytime I change them.
I don't think it's too bad an idea. Does anyone have a pair of slightly used, (ot cracked, warped badly or just plain trashed)FRONT rotors they could send me? I'll pay shipping and be sure to keep in touch with you about your beloved rotors...I might even send pics. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
04-01-2002, 09:59 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
I hate to disagree but unless I was completely nuts when I installed 928 calipers on my car the '92 and later 928 GTS caliper is identical to the 3.6 Turbo big red, excepting color and relation of the bleeders and crossover pipes to the pistons. The OE pad suppled by Porsche has the same part number for the '92 and later 928 and Big Red equipped Turbo 3.6: 928.351.949.02. My Carrera Cup car came with '91 964 Turbo size calipers in front- 928 S4 size- and the pads in my new 928 calipers are 10 mm higher and have the same Porterfield part number as the big red. The pads footprint fits my Turbo 3.6 disc's perfectly, this disc has a 10mm wider contact surface on both sides and has a pattern of 4 holes alternating with 5 holes, not 3 holes alternating with 4 holes like my original 322 mm discs. The way I see it the larger 4 piston caliper castings have appeared on the front of the 928 before they appeared on the front of 911 Turbos. <img src="graemlins/soapbox.gif" border="0" alt="[soapbox]" />
04-01-2002, 10:35 PM
#15
Race Car
Thread Starter
While I certainly appreciate all the advice and ideas...we have gotten slightly off topic here! <img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" />
All I want to know is if anybody has a pair of front rotors off their 964 that aren't cross-drilled and/or burned out from track usage. I have two sets to date that I have had turned down, they are within minimum specs and should grant me a few weekends of "trackplay"...that's all I want.
I don't play to upgrade my braking system anytime soon - but when I do, believe me, I will be asking advice from all four corners!
I'm just looking for a cheap effective way to offset the cost of rotors this year and in the meantime, conduct a little "experiment" of my own.
If you have a set of rotors that are sitting in a corner of the garage because they had "ridges" and some wear indicated on them, and their not heat cracked from track use...please offer them to me! I will gladly pay the shipping charges. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
All I want to know is if anybody has a pair of front rotors off their 964 that aren't cross-drilled and/or burned out from track usage. I have two sets to date that I have had turned down, they are within minimum specs and should grant me a few weekends of "trackplay"...that's all I want.
I don't play to upgrade my braking system anytime soon - but when I do, believe me, I will be asking advice from all four corners!
I'm just looking for a cheap effective way to offset the cost of rotors this year and in the meantime, conduct a little "experiment" of my own.
If you have a set of rotors that are sitting in a corner of the garage because they had "ridges" and some wear indicated on them, and their not heat cracked from track use...please offer them to me! I will gladly pay the shipping charges. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />