Brake Choices
05-20-2003, 12:36 PM
#1
Driver Carries No Cash
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Brake Choices
I expect that I'll have a rollbar installed in my Cabriolet soon which means I can begin to attend PCA Driver's Ed events - Can't Wait!
My car is a daily driver, and not a dedicated track rat. So I've been thinking that it might be smart to have a dedicated set of track rotors and pads. If I crack or warp a rotor on the track, I can still get to work Monday. Good idea?
So with that in mind I start thumbing through a Performance Parts catalog to see what a second set of front rotors might cost me. Yikes - rotor prices are all over the place!
normal rotors = $99 each
slotted rotors = $180 each (81% more!)
drilled rotors = $236 each (138% more!!)
frozen rotors = $249 each (152% more!!!)
I rummaged around in the archives and came away with, "drilled bad, slotted good". Anyone care to pitch-in with some been there, done that rotor advice?
My car is a daily driver, and not a dedicated track rat. So I've been thinking that it might be smart to have a dedicated set of track rotors and pads. If I crack or warp a rotor on the track, I can still get to work Monday. Good idea?
So with that in mind I start thumbing through a Performance Parts catalog to see what a second set of front rotors might cost me. Yikes - rotor prices are all over the place!
normal rotors = $99 each
slotted rotors = $180 each (81% more!)
drilled rotors = $236 each (138% more!!)
frozen rotors = $249 each (152% more!!!)
I rummaged around in the archives and came away with, "drilled bad, slotted good". Anyone care to pitch-in with some been there, done that rotor advice?
05-20-2003, 01:03 PM
#2
Racer
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think it's overkill. I've never heard of a Porsche cracking/warping a rotor at a DE event, and our local track is really rough on brakes.
Matching rotors with pads will avoid the hassle of bedding in the race pads every time you switch, but at an obvious financial cost. This is my first year using dedicated race pads and this is the strategy I'm taking, and so far no problems.
Matching rotors with pads will avoid the hassle of bedding in the race pads every time you switch, but at an obvious financial cost. This is my first year using dedicated race pads and this is the strategy I'm taking, and so far no problems.
05-20-2003, 01:11 PM
#3
Technical Specialist
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Terry,
I think you'd be nuts to have two sets of rotors. Swapping rotors, while not overly difficult, is a fair amount of work. Many people do swap brake pads, however.
My two cents on rotors that will see track use: use frozen rotors from Diversified Cryogenics, and get the slotted variety. That's around $200 per rotor. I used them last year for around 14 events and they worked flawlessly, and there was plenty of wear left in the rotors this year.
You've already read that drilled rotors are bad, and some say the cast-hole variety aren't great, since they will at some point develop cracks, sooner than solid/slotted.
Stock OEM rotors run around $75, slotted stock around $112 (those prices from Rennlist sponsor Paragon Products). I believe 964 frozen rotors are around $145 and slotting is like another $45.
At some point in your track experience, brake cooling will become important, however, if you're just starting out, you're probably OK for a bit. Just be sure to bleed your brakes often. In addition, if you don't know when your rubber brake lines were last changed, you might consider changing those. Rubber brake lines are good for around 10 years. What happens over time is that they can swell/constrict internally, affecting the hydraulic function of the brake system.
I think you'd be nuts to have two sets of rotors. Swapping rotors, while not overly difficult, is a fair amount of work. Many people do swap brake pads, however.
My two cents on rotors that will see track use: use frozen rotors from Diversified Cryogenics, and get the slotted variety. That's around $200 per rotor. I used them last year for around 14 events and they worked flawlessly, and there was plenty of wear left in the rotors this year.
You've already read that drilled rotors are bad, and some say the cast-hole variety aren't great, since they will at some point develop cracks, sooner than solid/slotted.
Stock OEM rotors run around $75, slotted stock around $112 (those prices from Rennlist sponsor Paragon Products). I believe 964 frozen rotors are around $145 and slotting is like another $45.
At some point in your track experience, brake cooling will become important, however, if you're just starting out, you're probably OK for a bit. Just be sure to bleed your brakes often. In addition, if you don't know when your rubber brake lines were last changed, you might consider changing those. Rubber brake lines are good for around 10 years. What happens over time is that they can swell/constrict internally, affecting the hydraulic function of the brake system.
05-20-2003, 01:28 PM
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Terry,
I'd hold off on track rotors, too. The pads are very easy to swap out--the rotors take a little more work.
When I get back from the track, I'm usually so beat that I need to push myself to swap tires/pads and wash that nasty brake dust off my rims. I'm sure I'd never get to the discs. Also, rotors don't necessarily fail. They usually develop cracks or wear too thin. So, from a practical standpoint, track rotors are at the low-end of the scale.
Yes, race pads are a good idea, but let's be more specific: Brake cooling is critical for DE's. Here's a good primer on <a href="http://www.seinesystems.com/BrakeFade.htm" target="_blank">brake fade</a> prepared by the fine folks at Seine Systems. It outlines the various types of fade and steps to avoid them.
Running street tires and pads might be a good idea for your first DE. That's how most people do it, including me.
The squealing tires give you a real good idea of where and when you can push it--things you want to learn at safe speeds.
As for street pads, I'm glad I started with them. I think it's part of a natural progression. First, you use street pads, overheat them and experience total failure. Next, you learn how to avoid brake failure but are still sticking them in the corners. Soon thereafter, you'll realize race pads make sense.
Just my 0.02
I'd hold off on track rotors, too. The pads are very easy to swap out--the rotors take a little more work.
When I get back from the track, I'm usually so beat that I need to push myself to swap tires/pads and wash that nasty brake dust off my rims. I'm sure I'd never get to the discs. Also, rotors don't necessarily fail. They usually develop cracks or wear too thin. So, from a practical standpoint, track rotors are at the low-end of the scale.
Yes, race pads are a good idea, but let's be more specific: Brake cooling is critical for DE's. Here's a good primer on <a href="http://www.seinesystems.com/BrakeFade.htm" target="_blank">brake fade</a> prepared by the fine folks at Seine Systems. It outlines the various types of fade and steps to avoid them.
Running street tires and pads might be a good idea for your first DE. That's how most people do it, including me.
The squealing tires give you a real good idea of where and when you can push it--things you want to learn at safe speeds.As for street pads, I'm glad I started with them. I think it's part of a natural progression. First, you use street pads, overheat them and experience total failure. Next, you learn how to avoid brake failure but are still sticking them in the corners. Soon thereafter, you'll realize race pads make sense.
Just my 0.02
05-20-2003, 02:27 PM
#6
Terry, I just purchased drilled Zimmermann rotors from Zims - about $108 each. If and when these crack, then I'll try the frozen rotors. For my 2 or 3 times a year DEs, I'm not expecting major problems. I wish, howwever, there was an effective brake cooler kit, similar to the one available for my old SC and the Carreras thur 89, for the C2. But as Bill has mentioned is this and other threads, there just ain't one. 
Chuck
93 C2
Chuck
93 C2