Clutch slave cylinder (DIY observations)
05-12-2003, 03:04 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Clutch slave cylinder (DIY observations)
Changed out my clutch slave cylinder Saturday. The DIY article for 993s on <a href="http://www.p-car.com" target="_blank">www.p-car.com</a> is a useful starting point, here are a few additional observations.
Tools:
13 mm wrench (ratcheting box wrench strongly recommended, e.g. Snap-On) for the nuts holding the slave cylinder in place.
17 mm wrench for the hydraulic fitting.
7mm wrench for the bleed screw.
7mm nut driver or flat blade screwdriver for hose clamps.
Equipment to bleed the cylinder (e.g. pressure bleeder, bleed hose, container for old fluid, fresh brake fluid).
Flashlight.
Pull the left rear wheel and remove the flexible hose between the heat exchanger and the vent aimed at the caliper and rotor, the clutch slave cylinder is perched on top of the transmission adjacent the clutch bell.
Two directions to access the cylinder, one by reaching horizontally in from the side over the wheel hub, the other by reaching (blindly) straight up from beneath the car.
Removal is easier than installation because the slave cylinder is spring loaded. One has to push it into place against the spring tension and somehow hold it there (**** it to catch on the stud threads as recommended in the p-car.com DIY, or hold it by hand like I did) while threading the first nut onto one of the studs.
I could not get enough leverage with just one hand to press the cylinder into place, so I ended up embracing the wheel hub and reaching one hand in horizontally from the side while reaching the other hand up vertically from beneath the car. Using two hands I was able to muscle it into place, then hold it with the hand from beneath while threading a nut onto the lower stud from the side.
Do not drop a nut into the clutch housing vent below the slave cylinder.
Easiest way I found to slip the bleed hose onto the bleed screw was by reaching up from underneath, rather than in from the side.
Tools:
13 mm wrench (ratcheting box wrench strongly recommended, e.g. Snap-On) for the nuts holding the slave cylinder in place.
17 mm wrench for the hydraulic fitting.
7mm wrench for the bleed screw.
7mm nut driver or flat blade screwdriver for hose clamps.
Equipment to bleed the cylinder (e.g. pressure bleeder, bleed hose, container for old fluid, fresh brake fluid).
Flashlight.
Pull the left rear wheel and remove the flexible hose between the heat exchanger and the vent aimed at the caliper and rotor, the clutch slave cylinder is perched on top of the transmission adjacent the clutch bell.
Two directions to access the cylinder, one by reaching horizontally in from the side over the wheel hub, the other by reaching (blindly) straight up from beneath the car.
Removal is easier than installation because the slave cylinder is spring loaded. One has to push it into place against the spring tension and somehow hold it there (**** it to catch on the stud threads as recommended in the p-car.com DIY, or hold it by hand like I did) while threading the first nut onto one of the studs.
I could not get enough leverage with just one hand to press the cylinder into place, so I ended up embracing the wheel hub and reaching one hand in horizontally from the side while reaching the other hand up vertically from beneath the car. Using two hands I was able to muscle it into place, then hold it with the hand from beneath while threading a nut onto the lower stud from the side.
Do not drop a nut into the clutch housing vent below the slave cylinder.
Easiest way I found to slip the bleed hose onto the bleed screw was by reaching up from underneath, rather than in from the side.
05-12-2003, 05:19 PM
#2
Instructor
When replacing the slave I found it useful to score the inside of the slave mounting holes. I replaced it while lying on my back underneath with the rear wheels on ramps (human pretzel method). By scoring the mounting holes the cylinder stayed in place while I started the net. It was a bit of a challenge!