Help: how to remove power steering bolt?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Help: how to remove power steering bolt?
I am planning on tearing down my engine. Does anyone know how to remove the power steering bolt to the cam shaft without the special tool below?
Or know where I can get one at a decent price?
Is it possible to use the P9191 cam tool to hold the cam from the other end to hold the cam steady?
thanks,
anthony
Or know where I can get one at a decent price?
Is it possible to use the P9191 cam tool to hold the cam from the other end to hold the cam steady?
thanks,
anthony
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Ft. Lauderdale
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The only manuals I have reference using the special tool (9236). If you hold the cam from the other end I would be afraid of the twisting action on the cam - the nut is close to 90 ft-lbs torque.
Good luck -
Good luck -
#3
Addict
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I just used an impact gun to remove the bolt. It came right off. As far as tightening the bolt, I'll let you know after I change the seal and o-ring, which hopefully will be this weekend.
#5
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If you need steps just to replace the seals, it is actually quite easy. Once you have the engine down,
1. remove the rear engine tin around the p/s pump
2. remove lower and upper cover of p/s unit
3. disconnect the bolt holding the pump to the bracket in the front of the pump
4. remove lower pulley
5. remove 3 bolts that fasten p/s assembly to rear of engine (bolts located behind the lower pulley)
6. remove entire p/s pump assembly and replace seal and o-ring.
Steps are not necessarily in order.
I found the engine tin to be the most troublesome.
If you need a copy of the pages from the manual send me a pm and I will scan them for you.
Good luck,
Colin
1. remove the rear engine tin around the p/s pump
2. remove lower and upper cover of p/s unit
3. disconnect the bolt holding the pump to the bracket in the front of the pump
4. remove lower pulley
5. remove 3 bolts that fasten p/s assembly to rear of engine (bolts located behind the lower pulley)
6. remove entire p/s pump assembly and replace seal and o-ring.
Steps are not necessarily in order.
I found the engine tin to be the most troublesome.
If you need a copy of the pages from the manual send me a pm and I will scan them for you.
Good luck,
Colin
#6
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Originally Posted by Thomas Owen
....I would be afraid of the twisting action on the cam - the nut is close to 90 ft-lbs torque....
#7
Rennlist Member
Alright guys, I am at the power steering pump. Why start a new thread when I can add to this already good one. So is the consensus I don't need special tool 9236 and just impact gun the nut off the main pulley like recommended above?
How about re-torquing it upon re-assembly? How would that be done without this special tool?
How about re-torquing it upon re-assembly? How would that be done without this special tool?
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#8
Drifting
I used one of these. They come in different versions depending of type of belt. A firend of mine hold this tool and I removed the bolt. We managed to do it withe the engine still in the car. This tool from above and then removed the bolt from below.
http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verkty...erktyg-191400/
Thomas
It is actually a good tool for other things. I use it to crank the engine when adjusting the valves and I use it to remove my oil filter.
http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verkty...erktyg-191400/
Thomas
It is actually a good tool for other things. I use it to crank the engine when adjusting the valves and I use it to remove my oil filter.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the tip Thomas.
#10
Rennlist Member
You don't need any special tool.
Take the brace that you removed from the drive and use the end with the studs (wrap the studs with a little duct tape to protect the threads) to stop the pulley from rotating while you break the bolt loose. The spacing is such that it fits nicely into the pulley spokes.
Take the brace that you removed from the drive and use the end with the studs (wrap the studs with a little duct tape to protect the threads) to stop the pulley from rotating while you break the bolt loose. The spacing is such that it fits nicely into the pulley spokes.
#11
Rennlist Member
I cheated and used my impact gun to remove the pulley bolt. Here is the teardown progression. When it is time to retorque I will have to use either the strap tool or look into using the studs on the secondary muffler bracket to prevent rotation.
My seals look good. It think the main oil leak is the oil pressure sender and the breather gasket up top.
My seals look good. It think the main oil leak is the oil pressure sender and the breather gasket up top.
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
I also used the impact gun to took mine off.
Now when it comes to tightening, you should lock down the cam/crank by putting the car in gear and pulling the hand brake to prevent any engine rotation. The tightening of the bolt turns the cam in the opposite direction of its normal rotation.
Now when it comes to tightening, you should lock down the cam/crank by putting the car in gear and pulling the hand brake to prevent any engine rotation. The tightening of the bolt turns the cam in the opposite direction of its normal rotation.