Help! Replacing brake bits.
09-06-2004, 04:57 PM
#16
Race Car
...and ANOTHER thing, I gain from your first post that you're attempting to separate the rigid (steel) brake line from the flexible (rubber or stainless) line...there are a few good handy tips to follow when doing so:
1) USE BRAKE LINE WRENCHES!!! ...~$20 at Sears...yes, they're Metric.
2) DO NOT undo brake line fittings as you would a bolt, nut, etc. by using constant force, this often results in stripping the shoulders of the hex fitting!! ...instead, get your wrenches situated, then "SNAP" the fittings apart, this works more often than not - TRUST ME!
I have had years of frustrating brakeline/brakefitting experience, but the best two tips I've learned are listed above...and yes, the 2nd one was advice from a local mechanic, once he helped me CUT my brake fittings from the car because they were destroyed from not using tip#2.
1) USE BRAKE LINE WRENCHES!!! ...~$20 at Sears...yes, they're Metric.
2) DO NOT undo brake line fittings as you would a bolt, nut, etc. by using constant force, this often results in stripping the shoulders of the hex fitting!! ...instead, get your wrenches situated, then "SNAP" the fittings apart, this works more often than not - TRUST ME!
I have had years of frustrating brakeline/brakefitting experience, but the best two tips I've learned are listed above...and yes, the 2nd one was advice from a local mechanic, once he helped me CUT my brake fittings from the car because they were destroyed from not using tip#2.
09-06-2004, 05:44 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by botoo
No.. You don't have to twist the sensor wires together if they are not damaged too much. They wear down and break the circuit. If the circuit is not broken, they don't sense a problem. If they have worn down so much that the circuit is broken, you may have to do that wire twisting. There is nothing in the pad itself that triggers the warning. Sensors are not expensive and can be bought readily.
Rich
Rich
If you have old broken sensors, then Tom's method is best as there is nothing to tie back and it will save you the cost of a replacement part. (yup they may be only $7, but 4 of them, tax and shipping @ $40-50 a throw seems a waste IMO!
I cut mine an inch from the plug, stripped, soldered and wrapped heat shrink tubing around them and gave them a blast with my heat gun. Then placed the plug back in. The wires stick out less than 1/2" and there is nothing to tie back or have flapping around. Nice and neat!
09-06-2004, 08:13 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by Kahdmus
I cut mine an inch from the plug, stripped, soldered and wrapped heat shrink tubing around them and gave them a blast with my heat gun. Then placed the plug back in. The wires stick out less than 1/2" and there is nothing to tie back or have flapping around. Nice and neat!
Having them tied back or shortened makes for really quick and easy pad changes
09-06-2004, 09:56 PM
#19
Race Car
I will put in my vote for the Kahdmus/Chris method...mine were not inoperative, I just don't like them! 
I change my pads about once every two months...I don't need no stinkin' sensor to tell me to!
I change my pads about once every two months...I don't need no stinkin' sensor to tell me to!