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Redoing the brakes.

Old 08-03-2004, 04:58 PM
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Default Redoing the brakes.

I've just sold my Audi TT so I've got some cash to do a few further baseline and upgrade things to the RS. I think I want to do brakes first so I'm going to order slotted rotors, Porterfield pads, stainless lines, etc. I've done some brake work in the past on my cars but I've never changed out the lines and bled the brakes. This seems like the next logical step to me and I'd really like to be able to do stuff like this myself. So, where do I find some decent procedures for doing the lines and bleeding the brakes? I'm thinking this power bleeder is a good choice since it makes solo operation a snap.

Anything you can offer to help me with this project would be a big help. I'm thinking I'll buy the Powerslot rotors from Pelican, but if you know of another/cheaper source, that would be nice too because they're a little pricey.
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Old 08-03-2004, 05:24 PM
Tom W
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The Motive bleeder makes the job of bleeding the brakes a very simple 1 person affair.

As our cars are getting old and the rubber deteriorates with age, I think brake line replacement is a good idea. While I chose SS braided for my track car, new rubber lines will be fine for a street car. In either case they will be fairly easy to change.

Rotors and pads are a personal choice and are also pretty easy to replace. I've been happy with stock parts for all but track only use (my 993 has been tracked a dozen times with stock brakes and about 5 of the times with stock pads - I did switch to Pagid Orange later). On my 964 track car I upgraded to "big reds" to increase rotor area to get better cooling. I'm currently using Pagid Orange pads on the track car.

Instructions for all you want to do are available on the DIY page. The only issue I'm aware of is that you will need a long (about 3") 10 mm hex socket to remove the rear caliper (if an RS is similar to a std C2). It can also be a bitch to get the bolts on the calipers broken free. A torque wrench is required to get them re-torqued when you put them back on.

You didn't mention fluid. I like to alternate between super blue and the gold ATE 200 fluids. It makes it easy to see when you have removed all the old fluid from the calipers. Be warned that the super blue will stain anything you get it on.

Don't forget to order new brake sensors if you use them. I had about 50% success getting the old one out and re-using them (I don't use the sensors anymore).
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Old 08-03-2004, 05:45 PM
Bill Gregory
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Are you making changes for street use or track use? RSA? If street, I'd keep the factory rubber brake lines - they are low maintenance (change every 10+ years) and get the job done (factory 996 racers use rubber lines too). For slotted rotors, you can get them from many sources. For street use, you might try Rennlist sponsor Paragon Products - call or email, as they only show rears on their website. I have no experience with the powerslot rotors, but they have always struck me as pricey. Don't forget that PCA members get a 15% discount from Performance, all the time.

Bleeding brakes - from the site, diy section:

My method - generic
Posted By: Ray Calvo <[email protected]>
Date: Monday, 5 March 2001, at 12:34 p.m.
In Response To: How to flush the brake system on 993? (Chris) Contributed by Ray Calvo

1) Pull as much old fluid out ofreservoir as possible with a turkey baster, refill with fresh fluid.

2) Fill Power Bleeder with new fluid

3) Hook Power Bleeder to master cylinder

4) Start at right rear; remove wheel

5) I built up a drain bottle which had a "tee" in it, with a separate 1/4" or so clear plastic tubing attached to each part of the upper "tee". Each tubing end gets attached to a bleed screw.

6) Open both bleed screws, drain out a 1/4 pint or so (fluid looks clear with no bubbles).

7) Close bleed screws, remove tubing, reattach wheel.

8) Go to LR, RF, LF in that succession and repeat (4)-(7).

During (6), helps to tap brake caliper with a rubber or wood mallet.

I would add that if you watch the level in the master cylinder reservoir, you can use the pressure bleeder purely as a pressurized air source, which saves cleanup. I bleed each nipple individually instead of both. I don't recommend using the brake pedal for bleeding, as you can ruin your master cylinder. While bleeding the brakes, bleed the clutch (there's an article on that tells how to do that. It's a pain to get to, however, it'll look like the fluid has never been bled before.)
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Old 08-03-2004, 05:58 PM
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Don't forget to pinch the master cylinder vent tube closed before trying to pressurize it with the power bleeder. I use locking needle-nose pliers. If you don't, it will be impossible to pressurize the system.

Also, I very much prefer to use the power bleeder as a pressurized air source, rather than fill it will brake fluid. Brake fluid can be compromised by dirt or by extended exposure to air (water), so I suggest keeping the sources of compromise to a minimum.

Have fun.

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Old 08-04-2004, 12:54 AM
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All excellent tips...thanks!!
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