HELP!!!Brake lines
#1
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HELP!!!Brake lines
I have an early 1990 964 c2 not 1990.5 on. I ordered goodridge brakelines, they fit (the fittings) but they were the wrong length be several inches. After calling and speaking with the "Tech" he informed me that since my car is pre -90.5 that I needed the early 911 kit. I received the early kit and the length was perfect, install the rear lines and drip drip drip.....? After looking at the two different kits I notice that the length of threads on the early 911 kit is much deeper so the flare nut is not going far enough down to seal. So am I out of luck w/stainless lines? Should I just order factory Porsche lines? I am so frustrated I have not had a chance to enjoy any of this Porsche weather we are receiving in Ohio. Thanks for any help, Steven
#2
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Steven,
I would recommend stock rubber brake lines, as they fit, are a low maintenance item good for 10+ years, and they're good enough for the current Porsche factory GT racers. If you source it through Porsche, the part number for the front is 993.355.139.00 and the rear is 911.355.087.00.
I would recommend stock rubber brake lines, as they fit, are a low maintenance item good for 10+ years, and they're good enough for the current Porsche factory GT racers. If you source it through Porsche, the part number for the front is 993.355.139.00 and the rear is 911.355.087.00.
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Thanks for the relpy Bill, this issue is driving me nuts I wish I would have just ordered factory lines! Are the rear lines for an early 1990 car a different part # than the rear lines for say a 1991 or 1992? Also what types of maintenance do stainless lines require, no one selling me these ever said anything about that, of course they can't even give me the right brake lines so go figure. Thanks again, Steve
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Are the rear lines for an early 1990 car a different part # than the rear lines for say a 1991 or 1992?
On the stainless lines, you want to inspect them often. They're stiffer than rubber, so you want to be sure they don't loosen up on you. Some have expressed concern about things like little stones getting caught in between the braid and underlying hose and causing a leak - some hoses are covered in plastic over the steel braid. Some recommend replacing them every year or two, others have said you don't need to.
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I also replaced mine with Factory parts. Since I track my car, I gave this a lot of thought and decided on rubber for all the reasons Bill cited. The caution about potential loosening killed the stainless idea for me. I don't need that concern hanging over me as I head into corners at over 100 mph.
#7
Drifting
Arent' the inside of stainless lines PTFE? much less internal flex under braking pressure I thought, the Stainless is merely to protect the inner hose?
If so the fittings should be, ahem, should be exactly the same.....So do Porsche do Braided hoses?
Kevin
If so the fittings should be, ahem, should be exactly the same.....So do Porsche do Braided hoses?
Kevin
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#8
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I'll have to go along with the others - forget about stainless lines. Reasons?
A) I switched to stainless lines on my '84 Carrera because of the thought they improved brake feel. I noticed no difference with them. I think the changes noted by most people is because the line replacement is accompanied by a detailed brake fluid change/brake bleeding.
B) I started hearing of cases of premature unexpected failures of the SS brake lines. I then personally witnessed one at an autocross. The SS lines got replaced with OE rubber lines at the next opportunity.
A) I switched to stainless lines on my '84 Carrera because of the thought they improved brake feel. I noticed no difference with them. I think the changes noted by most people is because the line replacement is accompanied by a detailed brake fluid change/brake bleeding.
B) I started hearing of cases of premature unexpected failures of the SS brake lines. I then personally witnessed one at an autocross. The SS lines got replaced with OE rubber lines at the next opportunity.
#10
Race Car
FWIW, one of the FIRST items I changed out (besides my clutch) were the brake lines. I got the Weltmeister kit and had NO issues except that the "boss'" in my shocks and the body of the car had to be drilled round, as the "D" shaped holes wouldn't work with the new lines.
I've heard that the latest version has the "D" cut ends now.
Plans are to change them out every 3 years or so...I'm due here soon!
FYI, I do A LOT of maintenance on my braking system, to include a powerbleed EVERY track event and checkout the rotors, etc. before embarking on yet another adventure.
Rubber lines or stainless, I really don't think there's a difference...except the stainless lines look REALLY COOL!
I've heard that the latest version has the "D" cut ends now.
Plans are to change them out every 3 years or so...I'm due here soon!
FYI, I do A LOT of maintenance on my braking system, to include a powerbleed EVERY track event and checkout the rotors, etc. before embarking on yet another adventure.
Rubber lines or stainless, I really don't think there's a difference...except the stainless lines look REALLY COOL!
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PoorscheC2
You mentioned a drip, drip, drip when working on the lines. You can quickly drain the reservoir when changing out the lines (steel or rubber). Not to mention how difficult it becomes to thread the fittings with slippery brake fluid on your hands and running down your arms
A helpful hint, if you depress the break pedal about 1 inch and hold it there the lines will not drip when you disconnect them. I use a jack handle wedged between the seat and brake pedal, works like a charm. That way you can take your time and create less of a mess.
Of course you will still have to bleed the system when finished.
Thanks,
Myles
You mentioned a drip, drip, drip when working on the lines. You can quickly drain the reservoir when changing out the lines (steel or rubber). Not to mention how difficult it becomes to thread the fittings with slippery brake fluid on your hands and running down your arms
A helpful hint, if you depress the break pedal about 1 inch and hold it there the lines will not drip when you disconnect them. I use a jack handle wedged between the seat and brake pedal, works like a charm. That way you can take your time and create less of a mess.
Of course you will still have to bleed the system when finished.
Thanks,
Myles
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It has been a couple of years, but I've cut apart several factory brake lines, and they have been ss braided in the rubber. But, I am not sure what was used as the core.
dennis k
dennis k