jtkkz

This are the mods he had done to his 91 C2, this are the accurate numbers that my friend emailed me.

welt chip
kn cone
no cat
fabspeed exh

228 at wheels but only at 5800 rpm dynoed by dyno labs www.dynolabs.net

Corrected dyno results, He might have meant torque...

joey bagadonuts

Thanks for the follow up!

jtkkz

Ok Finally got mine dynoed today at my friends place www.dynolabs.net

We did a total of 4 runs.

1st run with stock air box 215.8 HP@rear wheels 205.9 Torque
2nd run with stock air box 207.7 HP@rear wheels 201.1 Torque

1st run with fabspeed air cup box 213.7 HP@rear wheels 210.0 torque
2nd run with Fabspeed air cup box 211.8 HP @rear wheels 201.6 torque

The 2nd run is what counts due to the motor really runninng at much hotter temp. So the fabspeed air box does help when the motor runs hotter it produced rougly 4 more HP.

Next dyno run will have results of Fabspeed single outlet exhaust installed.

joey bagadonuts

jttkz,

Did you reset the DME between runs? When you change intake and exhaust parts, the engine's brain needs to adapt to the new components. You should leave the car's battery unplugged for 20 minutes, reconnect, let idle for 3 minutes and then take off for a spirited 15-20 minute drive. Then dyno.

I know the logistics of your testing may not allow for this type of extended swap but testing various mods back-to-back without a reset may not reflect the true benefits of the mod. Before your next tests, I'd suggest you reset your chip and dyno your car before swapping the exhaust to see if there's any difference.
Nice work.

jtkkz

My freind did mentioned something about that, but I was not aware of it.
We ended up not doing that.

So now that I am doing the exhaust should I be doing this reset thing?

thank you

joey bagadonuts

Yes, by all means, do the reset thing. Uplugging the battery for an extended period forces the chip to relearn all the variables, air, fuel, exhaust, etc., and will optimize the engine's performance for the given inputs. In certain regions, some of us actually reset are chips as the seasons change--there's a lot of stalling going on when that first frost hits. After a reset, everything works fine.

jtkkz

Thank You
I'll do the reset later after installing my exahust.

Gavin

Christer/Joey,

As promised here are my dyno figures:

Power @ wheels: 265.3 bhp @ 6288 rpm
Corrected Power @ Flywheel: 292.7 (DIN 70020)

Max torque @Flywheel (corrected): 265.4 @ 5304 rpm

Unfortunately I do not have the facility to scan the graphs to post, but have included all the numbers exc temperature/ bar pressure.....

I don't think I will be doing anything else to the car for a while now ( although a bespoke 'live' re-map might help) but I the MOT has run out so heres hoping it will pass !!

tonytaylor

Healthy figures at wheels there

Correction for flywheel seems low

joey bagadonuts

Wow! Nice numbers, Gavin!

Could you elaborate on the engine management modifications? This new chip, did your mechanic program it in conjunction with dyno runs? What did you do to your injectors? Replace them with larger ones? Any additional parts required?

And if it's not too personal, do you mind sharing the tab for such an overhaul? Just looking for confirmation that big power requires big dollars.
Thanks for sharing!

Gavin

Joey,

The re-chip was done by the garage, but they currently do not re-map 'live' on the rolling road (although they are looking to do this ).

The injectors remain standard, but were overhauled ( I think they use ultrasound to remove deposits etc and put in new seals/rubbers.

The engine mods were done in conjunction with the top end overhaul, obviously the attraction is that there is very little extra labour, just the parts.

Top end re-build was £2600.
On top of that was £500 for new valve springs.
£160 for titanium valve retainers.
£90 re-conditioned injectors
£510 for Cams (pair)
£300 for head work
£600 for s/hand inlet manifolds and new large throttle body

....Total about £4800 plus vat @ 17.5%

This doesn't take into account the de-cat, cup pipe, rs clutch & flywheel, which were already on the car.

As you can see, the extra bits aren't too expensive. My opinion at the time was that the cost of going to 3.8 (extra £2500ish) was expensive horsepower and I was trying to keep a cap on things !!

As ever, now I'm thinking maybe I should have.....

Christer

Hi Gavin

I have an appointment with the Ninemeister in less than 2 weeks. Hopefully I can give a full write-up and more data when I get the car back at the end of April or beginning of May. We are sort of finalising the final bits and bobs including a full engine rebuild.

robmug

Christer...that sounds interesting. What are you having done?

tonytaylor

Not a lot I hope or there will be sod all chance of me getting a slot in the near future.

Christer

I think the answer to that one is pretty much everything. Once it has all been finalised and work is under way I will post separately to let you know what has been done and results. Of course, as the car has to be driven in for 1500 or so miles after the work has been done, the results may not be in until June or later.

In general terms:

Full engine rebuild
3.8 Cup pistons/barrels
Gas flowed head and case
Fully upgraded internals including valvetrain, rods and cams
Motec +1 (includes valvetrain and cams I think)
LSD
RS (or later) plastic inlet with throttlebody bored out

We think the engine will be somewhat restricted on the inlet side - especially as I have a full GHL exhaust system (which yielded pretty good results on its own) - so we have no idea of final power. It may be that something could be developed to improve it as it will be key on a motor of this spec. This engine will be quite capable of revving to 7600rpm although I doubt if we would go that high. It depends on the cams that we are able to use with the pistons. As I understand it we will try different cams to see which ones fit during the build process.

Car going in 27th March. Maybe it could be run in before the Ring/Le Mans?