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Thanks Jason. Rebuilt the slave cylinder. You have to be a Houdini to get the slave cylinder re-installed. I made sure the slave rod was positioned inside the fork divot. Used a magnet stick to pass the nut to my left hand while holding the cylinder in place. Another bleed, and I have a clutch. Yeah. Cutting the 7mm crow spanner is well worthwhile to assist in the bleed too.
Few last jobs: Top up PS fluid, engine oil, and brake fluid. Run diagnostics & adaption with the PDT999. Also set throttle cable with the PDT999. Set clutch travel.
Then went for a drive. What did I notice from the major jobs undertaken:
New clutch engages earlier, and a bit smoother. Maybe the change from a rubber to a spring clutch. The FVD transmission mount 85 gives a little more firmness and the slightest vibration in the gear stick. Although, no noticeable change to cabin noise or vibration. I might not have been totally successful in eliminating chain cover weeping. The slightest weep on right side (or is it residual from a small oil spill when filling) c’est la vie. No other oil leaks including the RMS. AWD works, so I put the planetary gear and clutches back in the right order - phew!
Need to get a warrant of fitness, then good to go... spring is only days away
Thanks for the detailed journey. I know you are rushing for spring (23 September) but those of us in the north part of the northern hemisphere are hoping for summer to drag a bit longer. Fall driving is fun, it is just that the weather is unpredictable.
Almost a year later. I have never been happy with the FVD sport transmission bearing that I installed while the engine was out. I tried to convince myself a little vibration and the small amount of coffee grinder sound was OK. Nope, gave up, its winter and I decided to pull it out and replace the bearing with a more compliant option.
About 1 hour to pull out the transmission mount. Setting up the support for the transmission probably took half the time! I have dropped off the mount to my local guy to push out the old (new) bearing and push in the newer bearing.
I’ll report back on the difference, hopefully more to my taste.
Thanks for the update- I have the fvd RS mount pressed into the nose cone of my rebuilt transmission and I have been wondering if I'm going to regret it. Looking forward to hearing about the difference! Of course in my case I'll have to drop the transmission if I want to change it. Also went with LWFW so it will be hard to tell which is which NHV-wise.
I much prefer the oem front trans bushing, and then Wevo black pillows for the rear. Stiffening the front bushing on a street car gives you zero performance bump, and adds the wrong type of noise and vibration.
Changing rear engine mounts to compliant but "stiff enough"..is all you want to do. Keep that weight from bouncing around back there.
08-18-2019, 04:20 AM
