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Noooooo, I'm saying you clips just have the bilsteins revolves to feel however you like. If you believe they go low enough, which for RS +10, they do, and if you like the spring rates you have, sending them off to be revalued is a lot cheaper than buying a new setup.
If you switch to a "better" coilover set, you will likely end up with a higher spring rate, and will be over sprung when you have them set to the soft settings, which could be reason for the bounce. And the reports of the bounce in the kw v3 previously noted. As the spring rates will be more appropriate for the stiffer settings.
Anyway it's worth a call to bilstein to discuss. As it may get you what you want, and save you a few thousand in the process.
That makes sense, thanks for taking the time to explain. I also found this thread which describes exactly what your talking about.
If you switch to a "better" coilover set, you will likely end up with a higher spring rate, and will be over sprung when you have them set to the soft settings, which could be reason for the bounce. And the reports of the bounce in the kw v3 previously noted. As the spring rates will be more appropriate for the stiffer settings.
This is a good point – you may consider just replacing the springs with a lower rate to match the damper settings that you prefer.
This thread got me on the ball to adjust my compression and rebound settings today. I had gone almost full soft for the winter. And i also had a little bounce - kwv3 -
Fwiw, bounciness can so be a problem when your front and rear settings are mismatched.
I run same settings front and rear. And i tend to keep things simple since most of my driving is street, and if i do get to a track, it's not like i have a lot of time to play with settings to work on better laps times...
So here is where i am- just to throw it out there. Compression +5 clicks from full soft. And rebound +8 clicks from full soft. Bounce is gone and the ride is still compliant for the street, but feels like a sports car again.
I know this has little to do with this thread, but since the kw had been mentioned, figured I'd toss it out there.
And even if you don't have kwv3, it's a good read to have a basic understanding of how all this stuff works.
Now back to our originally scheduled program....
Fwiw- on the 3.9 liter monster that Peter Dawe is building us...(read- "for John"), Peter bought new springs and sent the bilstein b6 John already had, to bilstein for revalving. So just putting that out there, as it's not "a lesser" version of a strut to go that direction, when even legends in the world of performance do the same. The question really is - who is the guide to what valving for your spring rates and setup...so I'm curious to hear if you call bilstein, what help they are in that process.
My 964 is on KW3 with a lot of Elephant Racing components. I have no bounce, the ride is perfect in my opinion. It’s currently right around RS ride height.
But, the race shop I use set it up for me knowing how I like my cars to handle.
I like it better than PSS10s I had on another 993.
My 964 is on KW3 with a lot of Elephant Racing components. I have no bounce, the ride is perfect in my opinion. It’s currently right around RS ride height.
But, the race shop I use set it up for me knowing how I like my cars to handle.
I like it better than PSS10s I had on another 964.
Good feedback, thanks. Your 964 looks great with the LM’s.
Regardless of ride height, the Elephant kit seems like a no brainer... Not much more that Porsche replacement parts, yet a definite upgrade in design and performance. https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...e-rods-for-964
Do I need to buy the inner and outer tie rods on this page in addition to the bump steer kit?
I called Elephant to discuss the Minty and what my goals were for the car... probably do about 500 miles a year, no track or anything like that. Just want it riding nice and looking better.
Already ordered my KW V3s since I have them on my other car and love 'em
Here's the quote they replied with, seems way over the top, but hoping someone smarter than I can chime in with what might be unnecessary or a stupid idea for this particular car given my goals and the value of my car.
- Front strut top shock bushing $562
- Front rubber bushing for lower control arm $200
- Front lower control arm rubber sport hardness bushing $158
- 935 X QuickChange front strut brace $580
- Ball joint $280
- Front tie rod kit with adjustable bump steer / angled head $550
- Drop link set adjustable length and spherical bearing $325
- 20mm front sway bar bushing $60
- Rear shock mount $340
- Trailing arm rubber bushing kit sport hardness $750
- Spring plate monoball cartridge kit $560
- 18mm rear sway bar bushing $38
- Drop link set, adjustable length spherical bearing w/boots $250
Subtotal: $4653
Seems *excessive*, but I really don't know what half this sh*t is. I just want to lower the car a bit and refresh for a occasional drive without getting too carried away or negatively effecting the value of the car.
I know some will say to do absolutely nothing and wrap the car in bubble wrap, but that's not really me. Still, I can appreciate the history of the car and don't want to be the guy who messes it all up.
^drive it first as is without anything. Then find a fully sorted 964 from a member here and drive that car.
Then, suggest you do suspension, front control arm bushings, (front tie rods and end links if necessary) and then just drive it. This is not going on track so it is not going to be pushed.
Can't imagine all those bushings have timed out. If so, then go back in once you are familiar with the car.
I never like doing long list part swaps. You never know what changed the character of the car. It makes sense with on the way stuff but just to throw $5K of bits like this is a bit much.
Don't you own a few 964s? Definitely drive it first without doing anything except buying an extra DME.
I am sorting out my barn find 51K mile 964 and just driving it first except mechanical maintenance stuff like plugs, filters and fluids for baselining.
I did V3’s and the Elephant bump steer kit on my 25k mile C2. My shop talked me out of doing more because it’s a street car. The car drives great. I didn’t want to take it too far from original and I love it. Here’s how it looks...
^drive it first as is without anything. Then find a fully sorted 964 from a member here and drive that car.
Then, suggest you do suspension, front control arm bushings, (front tie rods and end links if necessary) and then just drive it. This is not going on track so it is not going to be pushed.
Can't imagine all those bushings have timed out. If so, then go back in once you are familiar with the car.
I never like doing long list part swaps. You never know what changed the character of the car. It makes sense with on the way stuff but just to throw $5K of bits like this is a bit much.
Don't you own a few 964s? Definitely drive it first without doing anything except buying an extra DME.
I am sorting out my barn find 51K mile 964 and just driving it first except mechanical maintenance stuff like plugs, filters and fluids for baselining.
This is good advice. Really the only thing I'm in a hurry to do is to lower the car a bit so it satisfies my visual requirements. Then I can drive it a little and get a feel for the car.
I do have a couple others and they're both pretty sorted out from a suspension standpoint... they're different setups and I can't really tell the difference either way so I'm probably the kind of guy who doesn't need $5k in suspension upgrades. LOL
Originally Posted by Dtronics
I did V3’s and the Elephant bump steer kit on my 25k mile C2. My shop talked me out of doing more because it’s a street car. The car drives great. I didn’t want to take it too far from original and I love it. Here’s how it looks...
That *looks perfect*!! Very nice man ... so just bump steer kit, no inner tie rods?
You might have or have not but in case you haven't check out Goughary's Suspension madness thread. He's made good suggestions on what he feels you should and shouldn't do. i.e. Spring Plates - check the bushings if they're good there really isn't a need to replace it. I would start with the bare minimum first like coilovers and go from there. Also, I will say unless you plan to lower further than RS height I don't really think a bumpsteer kit is needed and that might even be a stretch.
I'm in exactly the same position except I have a 993. I have a new set of V3s, would like to go to RS height and have been paralyzed about what other suspension components to change. My car will only be street driven buts it's easy to be sucked into the rabbit-hole of replacing a bunch of components that, I feel, don't need to be replaced on a street car. This thread has been instrumental in helping me decide to just go with the V3s and the bump steer kit. Thanks
04-20-2019, 10:41 PM
