C2 Suspension refresh - RS ride height
03-09-2019, 07:21 PM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Up to you if you want sways too. May or may not be necessary.
one thing you may consider is rsr type solid inner link on the steering rack. This removes the rubber and makes a real difference in steering feel.
Actually looks like elephants tie rod kit includes that. Def consider those
one thing you may consider is rsr type solid inner link on the steering rack. This removes the rubber and makes a real difference in steering feel.
Actually looks like elephants tie rod kit includes that. Def consider those
I tried to find threads on fitment issues but I couldn’t find them. Do you recall what the specific issues were?
03-09-2019, 07:57 PM
#17
Subscribed. Great info! Phase 2 for me will be changing our the suspension bits on my c4 @197k miles
03-09-2019, 10:30 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...r-install.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...r-issue-2.html
03-09-2019, 10:51 PM
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
I had issues fitting them to a 89 C4 for 16” wheels. They hit the rim. Also after cutting the thread they were still very close to the rim and I couldn’t dial in enough toe as did one other. Threads:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...r-install.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...r-issue-2.html
03-09-2019, 10:59 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thanks for digging those up. So it sounds like the early cars with D90’s had some issues. I’m assuming if someone is running 17” or 18” wheels, this isn’t an issue? Also, if you’re running 16” wheels, it’s seem like using a Dremel to shorten the thread is the fix which isn’t ideal but not a huge job.
I have Elephant sport rubbers, and rear suspension hats and they work fine. But I am suspicious of the bump steers trying to cut across 964 and 993 and variations.
Last edited by Spokes; 03-09-2019 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Typo
03-09-2019, 11:08 PM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
I did manage to cut off enough thread to clear 16” wheels, but then ran into the issue of running out of thread on the tie rod and I couldn’t dial in enough toe. Again there is another fix: with a bit of milling. But by then and new product requiring these mods, I threw in the towel and returned them. I went with FVD inner and outer tie rods.
I have Elephant sport rubbers, and rear suspension hats and they work fine. But I am suspicious of the bump steers trying to cut across 964 and 993 and variations.
03-10-2019, 01:43 PM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks. RS engine mounts are done already so that box is checked. I was debating the spring plates, is it worth the additional $1k or so (parts and install)?
03-10-2019, 02:46 PM
#25
imo... since you are refreshing the rest of your suspension it makes sense to refresh the last bushings in your suspension.
04-19-2019, 06:42 PM
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
I’m planning to order suspension parts now but having some second thoughts. I’m looking to go slightly above (+10) RS height but it’s a street car. I’m debating V3’s vs PSS10’s which are both close in price. I had a shop recommend B6’s and H&R’s but I don’t know if that will get the height as low as I want. I have the same concern with the PSS10’s having a max 40mm drop. I’ve also read mixed things on the V3’s but they’ll definitely give me more than enough drop. I ran V3’s on a BMW M car and it was a little “bouncy” but overall I liked them. Again, looking for RS + height so any feedback would be appreciated.
04-19-2019, 11:19 PM
#27
Race Car
You can get rs +10 w bilstein b6 and hr springs...
If you do the KW , remember to install the step down washers in the bottom hole, as they are drilled for 993 uprights.
Pss10 are expensive for what they are. But easier to set up than kw, since it's one **** does all.
Check w butzigear for some options as well. I'm sure dave can get you not only a better price on the kw, but he also carries jrz, and he would have some ideas relative to price that could fit the bill for you.
If i had it to do again, I'd not buy kw v3 and would have paid up just a bit and gotten more bang for the buck...
All that said- purely for street use- and not for really hard driving. But normal street quick...bilstein b6 and hr is a great combo- use the oem top hats up front and monoballs in the rear. Feels great and the handling is very good for street. And it doesn't cost nearly as much.
If you do the KW , remember to install the step down washers in the bottom hole, as they are drilled for 993 uprights.
Pss10 are expensive for what they are. But easier to set up than kw, since it's one **** does all.
Check w butzigear for some options as well. I'm sure dave can get you not only a better price on the kw, but he also carries jrz, and he would have some ideas relative to price that could fit the bill for you.
If i had it to do again, I'd not buy kw v3 and would have paid up just a bit and gotten more bang for the buck...
All that said- purely for street use- and not for really hard driving. But normal street quick...bilstein b6 and hr is a great combo- use the oem top hats up front and monoballs in the rear. Feels great and the handling is very good for street. And it doesn't cost nearly as much.
04-20-2019, 01:42 AM
#28
You can get rs +10 w bilstein b6 and hr springs...
If you do the KW , remember to install the step down washers in the bottom hole, as they are drilled for 993 uprights.
Pss10 are expensive for what they are. But easier to set up than kw, since it's one **** does all.
Check w butzigear for some options as well. I'm sure dave can get you not only a better price on the kw, but he also carries jrz, and he would have some ideas relative to price that could fit the bill for you.
If i had it to do again, I'd not buy kw v3 and would have paid up just a bit and gotten more bang for the buck...
All that said- purely for street use- and not for really hard driving. But normal street quick...bilstein b6 and hr is a great combo- use the oem top hats up front and monoballs in the rear. Feels great and the handling is very good for street. And it doesn't cost nearly as much.
If you do the KW , remember to install the step down washers in the bottom hole, as they are drilled for 993 uprights.
Pss10 are expensive for what they are. But easier to set up than kw, since it's one **** does all.
Check w butzigear for some options as well. I'm sure dave can get you not only a better price on the kw, but he also carries jrz, and he would have some ideas relative to price that could fit the bill for you.
If i had it to do again, I'd not buy kw v3 and would have paid up just a bit and gotten more bang for the buck...
All that said- purely for street use- and not for really hard driving. But normal street quick...bilstein b6 and hr is a great combo- use the oem top hats up front and monoballs in the rear. Feels great and the handling is very good for street. And it doesn't cost nearly as much.
Thanks in advance
04-20-2019, 01:44 AM
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
i went with the HR/Bilstein HD on my car. It’s a complete transformation of the cars suspension and dynamics. But, I’m getting a lot of bounce from the front end. It’s not banging on the bump stops...I know what that feels like. I have it set to The lowest possible ride height front and rear and the forward rake is perfect. But, the front axle bounce is sometimes irritating. Could you suggest something to fix it? Perhaps the elephant racing bump steer correction kit?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
04-20-2019, 10:08 AM
#30
Race Car
Lorenzoh- depends on what you mean by "bounce"....
Bump steer is an issue at the lowest level w those struts, as it's lower than rs+10....but that's not "bounce" in my head....bounce to me would be more about rebound. Which would require revalving the bilsteins, which is easy enough to have done.
Bump steer is an issue at the lowest level w those struts, as it's lower than rs+10....but that's not "bounce" in my head....bounce to me would be more about rebound. Which would require revalving the bilsteins, which is easy enough to have done.