clutch pedal sits lower than the brake pedal
01-25-2019, 05:18 AM
#1
clutch pedal sits lower than the brake pedal
I have power bled all my brakes and clutch
initially i had a problem where the gears were getting notchy, this progressed to becoming near impossible to get into gear
I replaced the roll pin which was shattered, rebuilt the pedal assembly, put it back together, I took it for a drive without the wood floor plate and the gears were very smooth, all engaging well
I have put the wood floor plate back on and now the gears are very notchy again
The clutch pedal also sits just below the brake pedal and there is no slack in the clutch pedal
when measuring from florr wood plate to back of the clutch pedal its approx 145mm
Any ideas whats happening
I cant see any method of bringing the pedal slightly higher than the brake pedal, the problem seems to be i need a touch more travel of the clutch pedal when the floor plate has been fitted, any ideas please
initially i had a problem where the gears were getting notchy, this progressed to becoming near impossible to get into gear
I replaced the roll pin which was shattered, rebuilt the pedal assembly, put it back together, I took it for a drive without the wood floor plate and the gears were very smooth, all engaging well
I have put the wood floor plate back on and now the gears are very notchy again
The clutch pedal also sits just below the brake pedal and there is no slack in the clutch pedal
when measuring from florr wood plate to back of the clutch pedal its approx 145mm
Any ideas whats happening
I cant see any method of bringing the pedal slightly higher than the brake pedal, the problem seems to be i need a touch more travel of the clutch pedal when the floor plate has been fitted, any ideas please
01-25-2019, 10:36 AM
#2
IHI KING!
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Have you considered adjusting the clutch pedal stop on the wooden floor plate? Just be careful not to set it too far as it will put excess stress on the roll pin.
01-25-2019, 11:13 AM
#3
Race Car
You likely installed the spring backward over by the kinematic lever.
Get another roll pin- you should have one anyway- pull the pedal box and look things over.
The Allen bolt on the kinematic adjuster should be 6mm of space from the bottom of the head- so you should see 6mm of threads there (or 5?- can't remember off the top of my head, but i think it's 6mm)- then look at the spring orientation and see if that is installed properly.
It is also possible that the hole in the clutch pedal shaft is no longer round and is more of an oval...if that is the case, replace the pedal- grab a good used one from a dismantler...
Good luck- send pics when you get it out!
Get another roll pin- you should have one anyway- pull the pedal box and look things over.
The Allen bolt on the kinematic adjuster should be 6mm of space from the bottom of the head- so you should see 6mm of threads there (or 5?- can't remember off the top of my head, but i think it's 6mm)- then look at the spring orientation and see if that is installed properly.
It is also possible that the hole in the clutch pedal shaft is no longer round and is more of an oval...if that is the case, replace the pedal- grab a good used one from a dismantler...
Good luck- send pics when you get it out!
01-25-2019, 11:29 AM
#4
IHI KING!
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
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By the way, how far off is the clutch pedal? I had a problem where I discovered that the hole for the role pin was drilled at the wrong angle. I ended up replacing the pedal and it fixed my clutch release problem.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ake-pedal.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ake-pedal.html
01-25-2019, 01:50 PM
#5
whats the possibility of it being slave or master cylinder,
the plate is adjusted to the maximum travel but still having problems engaging smoothly as soon as it is removed gears go in very smooth
a few years ago the plate cracked at the 90 degree section next to the where the master cylinder is bolted, this was welded back up, could this be causing it im sure pedal and pin etc were fine
I will measure how far the clutch sits back its prob half to one inch max from the brake pedal
the plate is adjusted to the maximum travel but still having problems engaging smoothly as soon as it is removed gears go in very smooth
a few years ago the plate cracked at the 90 degree section next to the where the master cylinder is bolted, this was welded back up, could this be causing it im sure pedal and pin etc were fine
I will measure how far the clutch sits back its prob half to one inch max from the brake pedal
01-26-2019, 12:16 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
I have this exact issue. I've tried everything. replaced/rebuilt everything from pedal to throw out bearing. it got better but still not 100%. The one thing I want to try which I haven't yet is bleeding the system hot. go for a long drive and try bleeding it again.
meanwhile my pedal just doesn't feel right. it is much lower than the brake pedal like you described. I've learned to live with it and it doesn't make the car any less driveable. Curious to see what you find
meanwhile my pedal just doesn't feel right. it is much lower than the brake pedal like you described. I've learned to live with it and it doesn't make the car any less driveable. Curious to see what you find
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01-26-2019, 09:15 AM
#8
i have bled the clutch and full brake system including booster about 4 weeks ago
drola do you drive with the wooden floor plate in place or no floor plate
I cant drive with it in if i remove it the gears are very smooth going in
It seems i need a bit more movement ie need to bring the pedal up but there seems to be no way of doing this
i think when the pedal assembly cracked a few years back and was welded (the edge where the master cylinder is tightened down) it may have twisted it and this is causing that loss of travel i cant see it being anything else what do you think
drola do you drive with the wooden floor plate in place or no floor plate
I cant drive with it in if i remove it the gears are very smooth going in
It seems i need a bit more movement ie need to bring the pedal up but there seems to be no way of doing this
i think when the pedal assembly cracked a few years back and was welded (the edge where the master cylinder is tightened down) it may have twisted it and this is causing that loss of travel i cant see it being anything else what do you think
01-27-2019, 01:31 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
At first I could not drive the car with the floorboard in place. I bled it a few times (manually and with power bleeder) and also had to change the clutch fork because the arms that make contact with the throwout bearing were worn. After I replaced those I can now drive the car with the floorboard in place. But it still feels like the pedal could benefit from having an inch more of travel. If the pedal were an inch higher in its natural position I think it would be in the right spot. But there is no more adjustment on that pedal to raise it. It feels like there is an air bubble somewhere in the system that I can't get out. That's why I wanted to try to bleed it while hot. Maybe that elusive air bubble will come out. I don't know what else I could do. Everything else has been replaced. Pedal cluster, master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch fork, throw out bearing have all been changed. Don't know what else to do other than just live with it
01-27-2019, 03:22 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
I just did a clutch flush and bleed as I was having problems with the pedal getting stuck.
When you bled the clutch did you try to move the pedal up and down and did you notice where the pedal level was? Mine at least was level with the brake when I pulled on the pedal and then pushed down to push the old fluid out of the line and later when I had to build pressure in the line after I bled it.
When you bled the clutch did you try to move the pedal up and down and did you notice where the pedal level was? Mine at least was level with the brake when I pulled on the pedal and then pushed down to push the old fluid out of the line and later when I had to build pressure in the line after I bled it.
01-27-2019, 10:57 AM
#12
Race Car
If you can't pull the pedal back up to the level of the brake pedal- pull the pedal box out and rebuild it. If you can, then there is a hydraulic issue. But all the way up it should be even w the brake.
If on a previous pedal box build, any parts were replaced, they may have been replaced w the wrong parts- there were quite a few iterations of the parts as Porsche changed the parts through the years. I have a pedal box on my bench right now from a 92 cab that is completely different than the early ones- different clutch shaft, and all the parts behind the kinematic lever- the spring, the arms, the white adjuster- all different from the earlier ones. So something in yours may have been assembled differently...hate to start a wild goose chase...but pull the pedal up, and see if it comes up to the brake, and if not, pull the box and start searching for the mechanical issue.
If on a previous pedal box build, any parts were replaced, they may have been replaced w the wrong parts- there were quite a few iterations of the parts as Porsche changed the parts through the years. I have a pedal box on my bench right now from a 92 cab that is completely different than the early ones- different clutch shaft, and all the parts behind the kinematic lever- the spring, the arms, the white adjuster- all different from the earlier ones. So something in yours may have been assembled differently...hate to start a wild goose chase...but pull the pedal up, and see if it comes up to the brake, and if not, pull the box and start searching for the mechanical issue.
01-29-2019, 02:18 PM
#13
ok I definitely can not pull the pedal up not even a few mm
i had all the pedal assembly disassembled, shot blasted repainted new plastic bush collars and new pin added could not feel or see anything abnormal.
which part is the clutch pedal arm are you referring to, is it the whole clutch pedal and the arm that attaches to it, thats solid metal, how would that bend
I personally think its not a bleeding issue but a mechanical issue
i had all the pedal assembly disassembled, shot blasted repainted new plastic bush collars and new pin added could not feel or see anything abnormal.
which part is the clutch pedal arm are you referring to, is it the whole clutch pedal and the arm that attaches to it, thats solid metal, how would that bend
I personally think its not a bleeding issue but a mechanical issue
01-29-2019, 03:38 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
What you can easily do is deattach the clutch pedal lever from the master cylinder. There is a clip you slide off and the master cylinder eye slides off. Once it is off you can move the pedal freely up toward the dash and down toward the floor board.