Anyone switched from Brad Penn to Porsche Classic oil?
#31
You do realize that Porsche has a long history of recommending oil that in one way or another is either good or convenient for them but not so good for the end user?
Their latest is right up there
They use a decent level of Calcium ~1804 -2025ppm and less than marginal P ~756-925, and less than marginal Zn ~770-883 in the oil analysis I've seen(they refuse to divulge what they think is in it)
Calcium is a detergent you want ~2000ppm, P and Zn are the wear protection, a minimum of 1000ppm and more up to ~1200-1400 is desirable where there is no concern for cat poisoning
Their latest is right up there
They use a decent level of Calcium ~1804 -2025ppm and less than marginal P ~756-925, and less than marginal Zn ~770-883 in the oil analysis I've seen(they refuse to divulge what they think is in it)
Calcium is a detergent you want ~2000ppm, P and Zn are the wear protection, a minimum of 1000ppm and more up to ~1200-1400 is desirable where there is no concern for cat poisoning
#32
the 10w-60 is marginal for P & Zn, but has a lot of Boron which may compensate. I haven't a clue if it does or doesn't. Also has a lot of Calcium which is a detergent. Main reson not to use it is that the weight is out of spec for our engines, spec for normal or track use is 15w-50, 20w-50, or 15w-40
For the 20w-50 P & Zn are way below spec, both are in what should be considered the danger zone, But again has Born that may or may not compensate. I haven't seen any data which shows that B can compensate for ZDDP lack. Again lots of Ca.
I wouldn't want o experiment on miy cars w/ either of these but what you use is up to you.
I use mainly M1 15w-50(Sine the late '80s & Brad Penn as a supplement when oil has to be added between changes or even as a substitute for 1 qt of M1 at a normal change( reason is for a little extra ZDDP in the track car). But there are certainly several other good oil choices available. Oil choice should be data driven, It certainly helps when the manufacturers publish data, but they often don't and it further helps to see the Blackstones to see how honest they are.
#33
Rennlist Member
Yeah, I saw the same one (I assume its conventional not synthetic as I think they have a synthetic 20/50 too). But date was pretty old on the test. I have some Blackstone bottles I should send one in with some VR1 I have here.
I'm hesitant to put synthetic on my 2.7, this is right from the engine build and techs. said to stay with conventional and they like VR1. They're fine with synthetic/blends on the 3.2, and prefer synthetic on the 3.6.
I'm hesitant to put synthetic on my 2.7, this is right from the engine build and techs. said to stay with conventional and they like VR1. They're fine with synthetic/blends on the 3.2, and prefer synthetic on the 3.6.
#35
Rennlist Member
there is a website blog run run by a mechanical engineer that tested several of these and found they reduced the zinc and viscosity of the oil. I think. Better to use the right oil to begin with.
#36
According to that guy 0W-20 Amsoil Signature Series, synthetic is the best available oil, so why doesn't everyone use it??
#37
Rennlist Member
#38
Formerly turbotwoshoes
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I wonder which Valvoline VR1 20W50 Blackstone tested.. the fully synthetic or the regular oil? There are two. I use the full synthetic because of the earlier published results.
#39
here is what I'm running. https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-ro...w-50-motor-oil having real good luck with it.
#40
Rennlist Member
the current data sheet for both conventional and synthetic both show high zinc and phosphorus.
Just pulled these off valvoline webside.
#42
Race Director
Just run a different oil.
#43
RL Technical Advisor
I've been doing engines since 1961 and professionally since 1972. In that time, I've learned many things but two really stand out:
1) Always used the BEST oil you can get. You won't necessarily find this out on the Internet so you should talk to engine builders who have first-hand experience. Further, car manufacturers sometimes sign marketing agreements with oil companies to increase their profits and they don't always have YOUR best interests at heart.
2) Never use any oil additives. Companies spend millions on formulating the right balance of additives into their base stocks to achieve the properties they need and adding more of anything carries some serious consequences that can be expensive.
1) Always used the BEST oil you can get. You won't necessarily find this out on the Internet so you should talk to engine builders who have first-hand experience. Further, car manufacturers sometimes sign marketing agreements with oil companies to increase their profits and they don't always have YOUR best interests at heart.
2) Never use any oil additives. Companies spend millions on formulating the right balance of additives into their base stocks to achieve the properties they need and adding more of anything carries some serious consequences that can be expensive.
#44
Stamped service books are very important in Europe! Lack of one lowers the value of a 993 at least $10.000!
Last edited by Railmaster.; 01-16-2019 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Typo