Anyone switched from Brad Penn to Porsche Classic oil?
#16
Rennlist Member
RRRight! Got it buddy.
#17
RL Technical Advisor
You do realize that Porsche has a long history of recommending oil that in one way or another is either good or convenient for them but not so good for the end user?
Their latest is right up there
They use a decent level of Calcium ~1804 -2025ppm and less than marginal P ~756-925, and less than marginal Zn ~770-883 in the oil analysis I've seen(they refuse to divulge what they think is in it)
Calcium is a detergent you want ~2000ppm, P and Zn are the wear protection, a minimum of 1000ppm and more up to ~1200-1400 is desirable where there is no concern for cat poisoning
Their latest is right up there
They use a decent level of Calcium ~1804 -2025ppm and less than marginal P ~756-925, and less than marginal Zn ~770-883 in the oil analysis I've seen(they refuse to divulge what they think is in it)
Calcium is a detergent you want ~2000ppm, P and Zn are the wear protection, a minimum of 1000ppm and more up to ~1200-1400 is desirable where there is no concern for cat poisoning
Oil detergent packages have quite recently changed and CA levels have been severely reduced due to the struggle with LSPI issues (that do not affect the air-cooled cars). The consequences of these changes have yet to play out as the long-term effects of their replacements are largely unknown and unfortunately, this applies to ALL engine oils.
Times are a'changing as we speak.
#20
Rennlist Member
Joe Gibbs Driven DT50:
Calcium around 2,600
Zn around 1,100
P around 950
In the end I think changing your oil regularly is almost more important than finding the "perfect" oil - as long as you are in the right range, i.e. Bill's thoughts above.
Calcium around 2,600
Zn around 1,100
P around 950
In the end I think changing your oil regularly is almost more important than finding the "perfect" oil - as long as you are in the right range, i.e. Bill's thoughts above.
#22
Race Car
Not to get into an oil argument- but if you use a contemporary "normal" 5/40 synthetic, your motor will not likely last long. The wear will be too high. Make sure the makeup of the oil is correct for a flat tappet cam motor.
Aka- in the states, Mobil 1, which used to be a very good oil, is not the same formulation that it used to be, and can not be used in our cars, but when the cars were new, it was able to be used.
As for me, there are a few right oils on the market that are highly recommended here. And i go by "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". So i have no need to switch from brad penn. cuz it is right and it works. There is no benefit in experimenting.
Aka- in the states, Mobil 1, which used to be a very good oil, is not the same formulation that it used to be, and can not be used in our cars, but when the cars were new, it was able to be used.
As for me, there are a few right oils on the market that are highly recommended here. And i go by "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". So i have no need to switch from brad penn. cuz it is right and it works. There is no benefit in experimenting.
#23
That's the silliest thing i've seen in a long while, and there is a lot of silliness going around
#24
Formerly turbotwoshoes
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Bill, I probably have more respect for you than anyone else on this board, save none. However, it may sound silly, but there was about a 3 year period somewhere around 2007-2008 where Mobil 1 was purposely reformulated with very low levels of ZDDP. Exmark, a commercial mower manufacturer would not warranty any of their products if you used anything else other than Mobil 1 in their engines and hydraulic systems, when the formulation was changed, they immediately saw an increase in hydraulic pump failures. Since, Mobil 1 has changed, but I do not know what it was changed to. When I discovered this ( I used two Exmarks on my small farm.) At that time, I switched to Valvoline VR-1, 20-50W Full Synthetic racing oil because it was the only oil available locally in Mississippi at the time.
#25
Bill, I probably have more respect for you than anyone else on this board, save none. However, it may sound silly, but there was about a 3 year period somewhere around 2007-2008 where Mobil 1 was purposely reformulated with very low levels of ZDDP. Exmark, a commercial mower manufacturer would not warranty any of their products if you used anything else other than Mobil 1 in their engines and hydraulic systems, when the formulation was changed, they immediately saw an increase in hydraulic pump failures. Since, Mobil 1 has changed, but I do not know what it was changed to. When I discovered this ( I used two Exmarks on my small farm.) At that time, I switched to Valvoline VR-1, 20-50W Full Synthetic racing oil because it was the only oil available locally in Mississippi at the time.
But the reduction was only specified for oil viscosity of 0W-20 through 10W-30 (yes, there is a zero viscosity oil). The thicker oils were not required to meet this phosphorus level. That is not to say that they won't. Additives cost the oil companies money. If they can get by with less, they might be inclined to do so. Standardizing the additive packages across all viscosity would also simplify their lives. The oils w/ the mandated ZDDP reduction are all lite weight oils and have the API Starburst label, The Oils unaffected and subject to the manufacturers whims have the older Donut label.
but there was about a 3 year period somewhere around 2007-2008 where Mobil 1 was purposely reformulated with very low levels of ZDDP
here is some data
before 1995 I'd need to look it u but it was comparable to the SJ spec
Mobil 15w-50 SJ circa 1995 P- 1058 Zn-1348 this was the last spec before the US EPA stepped in
Mobil 15w-50 SH circa 1996 P- 1095 Zn-1497, this is the first year after EPA intervention
.
.All the years in between
.
Mobil 15w-50 SH circa 2018 P- 1200 Zn-1300
The ZDDP problem arose after 1996 when levels of ZDDP below ~1000 were used, 1000 is considered a floor for flat tappet engines ie all the air cooled, during the period you mention Porsche was recommending M1 0w-40, P-1000 Zn 1100. Not the best recommendation but not usually a fatal one.
Not all engines need the same amount of protection, street motors generally have relatively mild camshafts and will be fine w/ 1000 -1200ppm, race engines w/ higher lobe pressures will generally want more ZDDP
#26
Rennlist Member
I love oil threads. FWIW:
my 71: gets Valvoline VR1 20w50 conventional
my 89 3.2 and 91 3.6 get Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic
My 3.6 GT3RS gets Motul 300v 5w40 synthetic
my 71: gets Valvoline VR1 20w50 conventional
my 89 3.2 and 91 3.6 get Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic
My 3.6 GT3RS gets Motul 300v 5w40 synthetic
#27
#28
Rennlist Member
#29
Here's 1