Oil Return Tubes
 

Still chasing a few oil leaks and of course the oil return tubes are on the list. Question - can I replace the tubes with the engine in the car? I guess as a minimum the heat exchanger needs to come off - never a fun task given that the bolts are rusted into a big blob. The replacement tubes are only $36 a piece so not a huge investment if I break one on the process. Any advice and/or word of caution. On a 1 - 5 scale, how much choice words do I look at here? Thanks

Yes, thinking of these for example:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2416ac875c.jpg

Since I don't have the tools for the heat exchanger removal, I may just have to learn to accept a few smallish leaks.

what tools are needed to remove headers? they just unbolt and drop....allen key if i recall.

used these on my car and they worked well, although a bit of a learning curve to install. first one was frustrating but i was a pro by the sixth!

Technically you are so right but since my heat exchanger has not come off in 27 years, there is a bit of rust and corrosion so I am pretty confident they will not come off without persuasion and may involve some broken bolts etc. I am not looking forward to that...

Dumb question, but what are these things and where do they go?

Edit: done a search, and educated myself.

These tubes - the originals are one piece and get installed during engine assembly - connect the cam tower with the engine case and let oil run back from the towers to the engine. They are visible from the underside.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7936a95988.jpg

There are never any dumb questions. I am glad someone asked.

I saw this video:


and it looks like you can install the tubes w/o taking the exhaust / heat exchanger off. Anyone done this? It always looks so much easier than it turns out - at least for me.

Thank you.

I used the billet aluminum ones and put a hose clamp on them, it helped as it gave a hold to expand them and get them seated...just watched video and thats the way I did it, drivers side is a PITA but doable

And remember the hose clamps come off after the tube is installed so position them for easy removal

It's not a problem to take the heat exchangers off. Just be ready to extract a broken stud - should that be the case.

What I've suggested people do-who are worried about this is the following. Call your local "good" Porsche shop. Not a dealer. Someone who knows what he is doing. Make an appointment. Drop the car. Have him break those bolts loose. And then put them back on with the proper normal torque.

Then go home after having spent 100 dollars. And worry free, take your heat exchangers off. If he breaks a stud. He has to fix it. And will have no problem doing that cuz that's what he does.

The issue w breaking a stud is because those nuts haven't been cracked in 20-30 years. So every so often, it happens. Not to worry.

That is a great idea. Thank you.

If you are going to do more work on your Porsche just bite the bullet and purchase a small OxyMapp or OxyAcetylene torch kit. Harbor Freight is probably the cheapest unless Benzo started selling their hobby brazing kit again. Then you just heat up the nuts red hot and don't have to worry about snapping anything.

Something like this?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2b0211d96e.jpg

Extreme heat, oxygen and liquids that can go boom - what could possibly go wrong? :cool:

Seriously, I have always had a lot of respect when it comes to welding etc. but you are right, I need to start working with this because yes, I am trying to do just about everything myself on the car. Primarily because I want to know how stuff works and also because there is a tremendous satisfaction looking at a job well done. So Harbor Freight or equivalent it is....

Or something even smaller for welding jewelry. It looks like there are a ton of inexpensive portable kits on Amazon too.