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looking for a nice stick shift car

 
Old 11-26-2018, 09:28 PM
  #16  
GoatFarmer
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SPEC E46 is a very popular series at the moment so a 330i should be easy to sell on. I have an E36 M3 race car (NASA GTS2). The cars are reliable provided you upgrade the cooling system and chassis reinforcements. E46 chassis was greatly improved, but you still want to do rear sub-frame reinforcements once you graduate to stickier rubber.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:07 PM
  #17  
Greg Wolfe
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Originally Posted by misterbeverlyhills View Post
^^^ I have seen you over on the M3 forum Mr. Wolfe. I am leaning that way because we can get 3 people (maybe even the Mrs if she can wake up early enough) and all our stuff in a real trunk. Girls have a lot of stuff.

I think the E36M is a future collectible, nice ones are already scarce; although I am dumbstruck why every singe car in a decent color has a Dove Grey interior. There are also some significant issues with cooling system and chassis reinforcement and many are close to 200k miles. I don't mind the miles if all the usual suspects have been maintained, but as I said above, people don't spend what needs to be spent on a 15k car.

Maybe going non M will open up some possibilities, I feel though that if you buy something that has future appeal, it makes it easier to sell on. Which is how I came to buy the 964, I didn't want them beating on my 73 longhood and would have no trouble selling the 964 today. Once you drug me and pry my fingers loose.

First choice was always a E36 M and then a E46M although they are still over budget.I will look into some non M cars and post again.

BTW the deal of the century is on a 996, you can get a very very decent car with all issues dealt with for 20k. As long as you want silver, grey, black, all with a light grey interior. Yellow ones are 25k.
Awesome, small world!!

You brought this up, but what about a high mileage 996? Maybe a little above the budget, but a thought. I am pretty certain the prices have bottomed-out so you should be able to get your money back. I like the cars you have it narrowed down too. If I wanted a budget track car, I would seriously contemplate between an e46 330i and an e36M. Just my 2 cents!

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Old 11-26-2018, 10:42 PM
  #18  
misterbeverlyhills
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Goat farmer and Mr. Wolfe, what do you think of this one? Looks virginal if well travelled.


https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/...736918930.html
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by misterbeverlyhills View Post
Goat farmer and Mr. Wolfe, what do you think of this one? Looks virginal if well travelled.


https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/...736918930.html
At first glance, the car looks awesome. Alpine on Imola is a top 5 color combo in the e46 M3. The most important thing on the e46M is getting the VANOS locked down which they did, using Beisan. As far as the 2nd most important lock down, that is the subframe. They mention there are no visible cracks which is good, but most cracks cannot be seen until the subframe is completely removed unfortunately. If I bought this car, that would be my first action, get the subframe reinforced.

If this car checks out, it is a pretty good deal. I like that it has it's service history and also the owner took care to replace all warn parts (with OEM parts to boot). You don't find many higher mileage M3's that are taken care of. This one seems to be an outlier (if the PPI checks out).

I am on my 3rd e46M. If you have any questions, ask away. Good luck.

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Old 11-27-2018, 12:22 AM
  #20  
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Mr Wolfe, is a sub frame reinforcement expensive and who would have the ability to do it? A regular BMW Indy or is it a dealer only item?

Remember, I don't need perfect paint, it makes me nervous anyway having to park miles from anyone else, this one at least doesn't look hot rodded. For the money......
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Old 11-27-2018, 12:50 AM
  #21  
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S2000 if your kids can get over their euro snobbery
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Old 11-27-2018, 11:36 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by misterbeverlyhills View Post
Mr Wolfe, is a sub frame reinforcement expensive and who would have the ability to do it? A regular BMW Indy or is it a dealer only item?

Remember, I don't need perfect paint, it makes me nervous anyway having to park miles from anyone else, this one at least doesn't look hot rodded. For the money......
I think I was quoted $1700 by a quality shop at one point. I ended up doing it myself and probably had around $500 or less in it. It's a lot of work though. If you decide on this car, maybe you can use that as some wiggle room to get the price down to pay for the subframe work.

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Old 11-27-2018, 01:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Jjm4life View Post
S2000 if your kids can get over their euro snobbery
It isn't snobbery; I have bought and sold cars for 35 years, at one point in the 80s, as a profitable sideline. Mustangs, Shelbys, a few Vettes (never again!), Jags and Healys, even a DB5. Took some to Europe, brought some back depending on the exchange rate.

I was just married and had sold every car, parked the cash and went on Honeymoon, came back and the market had turned, then the bottom fell out. I strayed into Porsches as early cars were dirt cheap; a decent 73 T was about $7500. The last Shelby I sold was $75,000 around the same time. (a 1968 GT500KR conv)

I rebuilt the motor and trans at Redline in Santa Monica, total price for both was another $7500; I could not believe how well the car drove and handled compared to the English and American cars.

In high school, I worked afternoons and Saturdays at a BMW dealership in London, road testing cars prior to customers picking them up, cleaning parts, gofer duty. And of course, being a BMW dealership, we all hated Porsches, which at the time were killing BMW at the track. Despite this, to this day, tools and I are mortal enemies.

But I do like to get a decent car, bring it back up mechanically and cosmetically (in that order) and enjoy it till it is time to move on. At which point, I like an easy sell and to get all or more of what I have spent on it. I find this easier to do with German cars where I have some knowledge; I don't really want to have to go to S2000 school, or Miata college to learn all about what I am buying, nor hunting through the Indy shops trying to find a good wrench for them. Tip: if the shop is filthy dirty, so usually is the workmanship.

I don't know if a S2000 is an easy sell, I don't know anything at all about a S2000 except they are the devil to pass on the track. I would rather stick to what I know something about and where to get the thing fixed, right the first time and at a decent price. I drive the cars to the track and back, if one breaks down, well, the ride back is a lot longer in someone else's car.

Anyway, thank you for the suggestion; the girls will happily drive whatever I put in front of them. They are of course terrible snobs, but mainly only about jewelry, clothes and men.

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Old 11-27-2018, 02:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by misterbeverlyhills

Anyway, thank you for the suggestion; the girls will happily drive whatever I put in front of them. They are of course terrible snobs, but mainly only about jewelry, clothes and men.
Lol I was referring to the kids, not you. S2k is going to be cheaper to run and replace than anything else you've listed short of a Miata. Might be worth a look..
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Old 11-27-2018, 02:17 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Jjm4life View Post
Lol I was referring to the kids, not you. S2k is going to be cheaper to run and replace than anything else you've listed short of a Miata. Might be worth a look..
I think he was trying to explain that his kids are not snobs, they will drive anything. misterbeverlyhills is the one that chooses to buy Euro.

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Old 11-27-2018, 03:05 PM
  #26  
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^^^

A S2k just drove by while I was walking the dog race prepped, looked pretty beefy, a little loud in an obnoxious way but still, pretty interesting. Great looking girl driving (I am married, not dead) plate read DADSRCR, tells you something.

Do you have a line on a good S2k forum? I'll do a little light reconnoitering.

I am zeroing in a a couple BMWs but as I look, I keep seeing posts starting "WTB nice e36m", just like here a few years ago, I think they may be poised for a little spurt and good ones gone forever.
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
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Old 11-27-2018, 03:07 PM
  #27  
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Sorry, the car was race prepped, not the dog. The dog is about as far from race prepped as he can be unless the doorbell rings.
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Old 11-27-2018, 03:39 PM
  #28  
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I still vote the 986S with a roll cage and hard top if safety is a concern. My tech in San Diego preps lots of 986 race cars and he’s building some of the most competitive cars in SoCal/NorCal at the moment. The cars have hard tops, cages, fully gutted and prepped for serious racing. You don’t need to go a full build on the 986, just partial including the additional cooling and oiling system needed to keep the IMS happy along with any track mods. If you’re interested I can put you in touch with him.
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Old 11-27-2018, 05:20 PM
  #29  
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If you go with an E46 M3 you will want to get a race shop to do the sub-frame reinforcements. An indy may be aware of them, may not. Dealers will be clueless. Parts are like $150. Labor is quite extensive as you need to remove the exhaust, rear sub-frame and fuel tank before you can access the points where the pieces need to be welded in. Bimmerworld has a very good write up/instructions on what needs to be done. Parts can be purchased from Bimmerworld, Turner Motorsports, AKG Motorsports, etc...

Another thing to keep in mind with the E46 M3 is the need to replace the connecting rod bearings. The S54 motor tends to have accelerated wear on these parts partly because of the very high rpm they rev to. Replacement can be done in the car if you support the top of the motor with an engine support, drop the front sub-frame and oil pan and pump to get access. The M54 motor in the 330i does not suffer from this issue.

I know it sounds like a lot of work, but the cars are very good. There is a reason why most of the cars on track (at least in the Northeast) are BMW 3 series.

Like Mr Wolfe, I did the work myself. Good welding skills and equipment are required though.
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Old 11-27-2018, 05:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue View Post
I still vote the 986S with a roll cage and hard top if safety is a concern. My tech in San Diego preps lots of 986 race cars and he’s building some of the most competitive cars in SoCal/NorCal at the moment. The cars have hard tops, cages, fully gutted and prepped for serious racing. You don’t need to go a full build on the 986, just partial including the additional cooling and oiling system needed to keep the IMS happy along with any track mods. If you’re interested I can put you in touch with him.
Thank you very much, that sounds like a dad car. We want to be able to drive to and from the track with overnight bags, 3 people and maybe mom from time to time.
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