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Thanks, I thought I noticed when under there that it lock cylinder goes from copper to flexi a little further along the line up into the rear. Yes, speed bleeders is on the list. Assuming operating the console switch is when the ignition is on (priming the circuit)?
Just placed a refill order for seals. I have a few sets left from the original order...you guys sucked the mug dry!
Like i stated above...for those that bought seals, I'm happy to help/talk you through once you get them. So any hiccups, like "how the hell does this thing that holds the front diff lock in come out!?!??" (They get stuck)....give me a shout or get in touch. And I'll help as best i can.
Not yet, but top of my winter projects list. Also need to first look at a few garage lifts I so desperately want. The NEC Classic Motor show here n the UK is my first try before you buy of different lift types. Also there to pick up parts from the hundreds of trade stands.
I've just done the install of the diff lock seal kit. Before I did the install the piston moved freely. now I've fitted the new seals the piston is much harder to move and when I push in the rod, the piston says in the compressed position and the spring isn't pushing it out. I removed the piston once already to check that a seal hadn't folded or been pinched but everything looks fine. Is this okay? Is it safe to put it back into the car and when lubed with brake fluid etc it will be fine? or have I done something wrong?
I've just done the install of the diff lock seal kit. Before I did the install the piston moved freely. now I've fitted the new seals the piston is much harder to move and when I push in the rod, the piston says in the compressed position and the spring isn't pushing it out. I removed the piston once already to check that a seal hadn't folded or been pinched but everything looks fine. Is this okay? Is it safe to put it back into the car and when lubed with brake fluid etc it will be fine? or have I done something wrong?
thanks in advance
Stephen
Did mine back in June. When assembled the piston was very 'sticky' and hard to spring back. Made sure all was lubricated with brake fluid, and when I manually pressed in the piston rod in quick succession repeatedly it would spring back (albeit still a bit sticky). Should be fine like this as brake fluid has nothing like the same (lubricating) viscosity as say engine oil (for a given test temp). The seals are of teflon type too I believe so in themselves should have very low friction qualities. I wouldn't worry about the piston not moving as with over 200 bar of pressure nothing is going to remain stationary! Others will chip in, I'm sure.
Here are the old o-ring and plastic ring next to each other. As you can see a fair amount of stretching had occurred over the last 30 years. Apart from that, the diff lock bore was smooth and undamaged and now when I pressure bleed the brakes the system will hold pressure and I don't get brake fluid coming out of the diff lock, which is a result!
New o-ring on the left, old one on the right new one on the left, old one on the right
Since this is The Thread of Record on the subject I'll post what I posted elsewhere - if you encounter a totally seized piston like I did which doesn't respond to comp. air (which has its dangers if it does work) try a zerk and grease gun.
And if you're wondering why my cylinder is so damn gnarley looking allow me to present my second trick: if your entire lateral lock cylinder is seized in place, try my ugly-but-effective slave cylinder wrench, presently residing at Chez Goughary.
10-13-2018, 09:07 AM
