Silvertarga

Go to BMW for hose clamps, they are great quality, I did this last year and used the silicone type intake manifold rubbers from fleabay, no problems

Goughary

Send me a link to the bmw clamps. I'm thinking maybe just do stainless oetiker clamps and a few hose clamps in strategic locations so that in the eventuality of anything needing to be replaced, the unit can come out and be serviced.

jwbavalon

Hi, Interesting thread. I'm waiting for your analysis on hose clamps. Honda is big on the spring clamps and BMW used 1 ear crimp (permanent) and Okert type crimp (can be removed) clamps well as screw clamps that don't damage the hoses.

wallra

I use high pressure fuel line hose clamps don't cut into the hose.

Silvertarga

I took my old ones into the BMW dealer and they matched them up, I will get my receipt folder out asap and post the part numbers

Goughary

Thanks. Looks like AWAB and Ideal Tridon both make very good quality clamps as well. Still not so pretty, but likely candidates...

I'm leaning toward Ideal tridon lined 65E clamps.
But we will see.

Santa Cruz Red

Very interesting/informative thread... collective thanks for taking the dive. Not directly related to your project, but close... years ago when I rebuilt my engine I was amazed at the poor fit between the phenolic spigots that bolt directly to the intake ports on heads. I was obsessed with matching them but found that to get a smooth flow from the spigot to the aluminum intake port I had to cut into the o-ring grooves that seats and seals them to the heads. I epoxied up the o-ring grooves, machined the mating surface flat and ground away to get a smooth transition. I then used a motorcycle sealant, Yamabond No. 4, to seal the now o-ring-less spigots to the heads. 10+ years and still no leaks... sorry, no pics. Also, HPS Silicone Hoses has a nice collections of hose clamps... good looking as well.

JasonAndreas

Their smartseals are more like oetiker clamps. And don't waste your time with the aftermarket thermoset polyurethane intake sleeves. Long term they won't be able to take the heat cycling.

Goughary

That's what i was thinking too Jason. The oem seals are really the best fit, also because they are molded into shape and provide the best seal under the lowest clamp pressure- so if the hose clamp looses a bit as they can tend to do, you still don't experience vacuum leaks as easily.
No need to buy something one has to over tighten in order to keep a seal.

I could buy a good soft used set if they haven't been subjected to the amount of corrosion these ones have been subjected to...dunno yet. It'll depend on what i find. I'm still in disassembly and discovery/learning mode.

Silvertarga

BMW part numbers are 07 12 9 952 133 (I bought 5)
07 12 9 952 135 (I bought 4)

These are the larger clamps that they had to order, The clamps for the intake sleeves were in stock, cant find receipt for part number

Goughary

Thanks!

phil_m

Goughary

Yeah. I looked at the p2m clamps. A little too much of a mismatch for the aesthetics in the bay.

I think just a good high quality stainless hose clamp will be good- with a liner.

I'm kind of leaning toward high quality lined stainless oetiker's for the areas where the oem were oetiker. Not for all of them but most of these hoses are attached to bits that will basically never need service. The evap vac valve has a bladder, and so that every so often will need to go. The thing is- these larger lines are carrying fuel vapors...so this is why Porsche uses lined oetikers and heavier duty lined fuel line type hose clamps (less likelihood of loosening up.

For the other bits- air vac lines and the clamps for the isv, good quality stainless hose clamps.

And same for the intake to the throttle body- only bigger. Design-wise for these, I'd like something of the same old-school look, just cleaned up a bit and a bit more refined...but not by much. One of those things that honestly if i really wanted it the way i want it, I'd have to design it myself. Which is should do...i could ditch the financial planning/wealth management gig, and get back to my roots as a Milanese product designer...lol. But then, I'd never get anything done and my hose clamps would never actually get designed cuz I'd be at Bar Basso bitching long form in wordy Italian paragraphs (albeit, poetically) about Alfa Romeo and the wrong direction they have taken, and all the subtlety they missed...by trying to out do bmw, which they won't and can't do.



In other news, i bought a box of the stainless eclips i needed for the aluminum WOT do-dads...



A few of you guys have enquired. I'm not the best sometimes at responding - so if i miss it or take too long, I'll just apologize now. You would all be waaaaaaay better off shooting my wife a msg. Cuz she is significantly better at life than I...

Anyway- i will get back and i will respond. And if you want one, I'll send them once i get the e-clips...cuz though they have a set screw and work fine without, I'd feel more comfortable with, and so I'm sure everyone else would agree.

Oh- and one more tidbit- this little guy...



Is made by Pierburg and many cars used them. I didn't check sunset, but the other suppliers i found were all around 25-26 dollars plus shipping. If you type in "pierburg air check valve" in amazon, you'll see a Volvo one for 19 dollars and free prime shipping. That's the cheapest i found for an oem type replacement. You can, however replace this with anything of similar size that fits the lines, as long as it functions the same way. Air goes one direction.
I suggest that if you haven't replaced yours, take yours out. Blow through one side and then the other. If it's not working, you'll know. And then just replace if yours is bad. It's a necessary part.
And they get gummed up- now that I'm see that on all these Audi and VW and Volvo all these guys say the same about this part getting gummed up and causing probs. So out it goes.

Goughary

So there has been a lot of cleaning going on, and more coming.

But my Kevlar sleeving arrived today. So i decided that it would be a good idea to dive in and do a test fit. Before i get to the pics, understand that this is a test, and I'm not happy with what i have done, so there will be a version 2....so don't hate.







Getting this tubing to slip over the hose is crazy difficult, and I'm using a thin Kevlar, so the weave/braid is not tight. Makes it practically impossible.

Also. I need a set of Kevlar shears. My heavy duty kitchen shears can barely cut the Kevlar. So those will get ordered.

Also. The length of tube i cut, seemed to be long enough, but not nearly log enough once it finally went on.



So that's coming back off...

And the other problem is the color of the Kevlar is great until you give it a black background, and then it's a kind of green. Which I'm unhappy with. So I'll need to fix that as well.



So onward. First attempt- fail. But i learned a bit. So it was worth the try.

jeff33702

Pro tip - turn shield inside out except for the first 1/4". Insert tip of tube into the part that is not inside out. "roll" the rest of it onto the tube. This worked well for me with a similar looking product, although it was not Kevlar. Good luck!