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Engine out- while I’m in there advice/Parts list

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Old 05-28-2018, 02:56 AM
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Peteinjp
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Default Engine out- while I’m in there advice/Parts list

In preparation for my 6 speed install I thought it wise to ask the greater good to help me make the list of “while in in there” parts and maintenance. My car has just over 100,000km’s on it. I’m mostly interested in the stuff that really tough to do with the engine in the car. This will be my first time to drop the assembly so hit me up.

Starting with the obvious maintenance:

I’ll do a compression test before pulling the engine
plugs
valve adjustment
new clutch/pressureplate/rmsbbslave
maybe sparkplug wires

Replacement items:

Engine pad

Ok- as you can see I have a lot to learn here....

Pete
Old 05-28-2018, 11:30 AM
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Jmw1234
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Default Injectors plus

id say upgrade fuel injectors
Old 05-28-2018, 12:24 PM
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Rocket Rob
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Check your fuel lines. The rubber is 25 years old. Check all other rubber parts for aging.
Old 05-28-2018, 01:42 PM
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Spyerx
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This is a huge slippery slope. Wisdom will say: replace all rubber and gaskets that are impossible to get to while motor in. Fuel lines that are rubber.
etc etc.

Why are you pulling the motor?
Old 05-28-2018, 07:51 PM
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Thanks for the replies thus far.

Whats the advantage of uograding the injectors?

Yes fuel lines will be added to the list. How about the fuel pressure regulator? Is that accessible with the engine in?

Spyrex- I’m pulling the engine just to switch out the 5 speed with the 6. Also clutch etc is original so good excuse to throw in the Rs hardware. Also the point is to address all those little seals etc. Honestly one of the main reasons is to familiarize myself with the whole system.

I come one from a bmw background- 20 some odd years of BMW 2002’s to be specific. I know that car inside out and can fix anything on it. I have a good Porsche mechanic but I’m a believer in the idea that no one can know a car as well as the one who spends the most time with it.

Truth be told I’ve wanted to pull the engine since I got the car- why? I’m extremely curious. But I’ve held off until I’ve had a real reason to do so.

In in all likelihood it will be late fall before I do the deed. I want to have as much prepared as possible as I’m in Japan- land of the 200% markup- I order most of the parts from back in the U.S. And I just want to drive it during the good seasons.

So- what seals etc are we talking about here?

Pete



Old 05-29-2018, 10:31 AM
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Front and rear main seals, timing chain cover gaskets, replace the power steering belt, grind your AC bracket, oil breather and temp sensor manifolds ? gaskets,
Clean, clean, clean.
Spend $100 and r&r all these gaskets and sensors while its out, easy peasy. Can be a PITA otherwise.

Many good threads and experience here on RL.
Old 05-29-2018, 11:28 AM
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Super90
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Originally Posted by Jmw1234
id say upgrade fuel injectors
I would rephrase this as "Ultrasonically clean your fuel injectors and subsequently check for proper flow rates".
Old 05-29-2018, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Spyerx
This is a huge slippery slope. Wisdom will say: replace all rubber and gaskets that are impossible to get to while motor in. Fuel lines that are rubber.
etc etc.
Abolutely. Slippery slope is an understatement !! I won't begin to list everything I did when I pulled my motor to fix leaking seals at the cylinder to case. I can include the resulting photos...






I've already done lots of research on fuel lines. Surprisingly, most of the lines from the rails to the FPR etc are hard poly lines with a rubber jacket and hold up very well. We already did some destructive testing of a couple of mine to check their condition.

The one that fails routinely, and that is the highest on the list for proactive replacement, and it is not said "poly line" is the one that is at the fire wall, connects the hard line from the fuel pump, and goes to the fuel filter. It is also under high pressure. I replaced mine again (it had been done at some point before my ownership).. I used Cohline 2240 hose for this, which is rated for all fuels and has a temp. rating of -40 to 257 degrees F.



Old 05-29-2018, 11:45 AM
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You should also inspect your engine tin for rust. I replaced some of mine during an engine rebuild. I had it powder coated with the rest so they all matched. What engine mounts are you running? If they are sport (RS style), now would be a good time to have your engine cross bar reinforced.
Old 05-29-2018, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Super90
I would rephrase this as "Ultrasonically clean your fuel injectors and subsequently check for proper flow rates".
I agree, I was going to clean and flow check my OEM ones (staying 3.6 on ported M64)
Old 05-29-2018, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Peteinjp
Thanks for the replies thus far.

Whats the advantage of uograding the injectors?

Yes fuel lines will be added to the list. How about the fuel pressure regulator? Is that accessible with the engine in?

Spyrex- I’m pulling the engine just to switch out the 5 speed with the 6. Also clutch etc is original so good excuse to throw in the Rs hardware. Also the point is to address all those little seals etc. Honestly one of the main reasons is to familiarize myself with the whole system.

I come one from a bmw background- 20 some odd years of BMW 2002’s to be specific. I know that car inside out and can fix anything on it. I have a good Porsche mechanic but I’m a believer in the idea that no one can know a car as well as the one who spends the most time with it.

Truth be told I’ve wanted to pull the engine since I got the car- why? I’m extremely curious. But I’ve held off until I’ve had a real reason to do so.

In in all likelihood it will be late fall before I do the deed. I want to have as much prepared as possible as I’m in Japan- land of the 200% markup- I order most of the parts from back in the U.S. And I just want to drive it during the good seasons.

So- what seals etc are we talking about here?

Pete



YES, replace the fuel pressure regulator now. You will hate yourself when you have to do it later. Check Amazon with the Bosch p/n. I paid about $100 for one.
Old 05-29-2018, 01:18 PM
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Super90
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Originally Posted by JJ964
YES, replace the fuel pressure regulator now. You will hate yourself when you have to do it later. Check Amazon with the Bosch p/n. I paid about $100 for one.
I just posted all those Bosch part numbers in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...rts-hacks.html

And yes, do the FPR.

OK, so I did the following, and this is toward the fully comprehensive list, and I'm not recommending all this to everyone, as there are lots of differing opinions on how far to go, thresholds for pain, etc. Oh and I have not shown the new P/C's (I had the early model and wanted to upgrade) or aluminum timing boxes...
  1. ALL the sensors (O2, flywheel, knock, Cylinder head temp, etc.)
  2. Fuel pressure regulator
  3. Injector ultra sonic cleaning
  4. Vacuum connections (the little maccaroni's, and three-ways),
  5. Intake sleeves, intake sealing rings,
  6. Breather hoses, breather housing gasket,
  7. Oil lines to and from tank and oil filter console
  8. PS pump belt and seals off the cam,
  9. Timing box seals (all of them) - this source of leaks is coming on all 3.6's, when, not if....
  10. Valve covers (aluminum) and gaskets
  11. Timing chain tensioner gaskets and bridge o-rings
  12. New starter
  13. New alternator
  14. Replated all fasteners, pulleys halves and spacers, fuel rails, clamps, etc. etc.
  15. Powder coated engine tin, engine carrier and fender supports
  16. Air Conditioning bracket mod (cut out inside radius to ease removal in the future)
  17. New belt sensor
  18. Distributor belt
  19. Spark plugs and wires, caps and rotors
  20. Fuel line mentioned above, and fuel filter
  21. PS reservoir hoses, and new reservoir (screen gets plugged)
  22. Clutch
  23. Clutch hydraulics (slave and slave hose)
  24. Engine pad
  25. Axle boots and CV repack
  26. Probably lots of other stuff I forgot already...
Old 05-29-2018, 02:51 PM
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Jon from EBS Racing here If you do not already have a parts supplier I would be happy to provide you with a complete price quote on your parts list. Also, we ship to Japan daily and can offer some very competitive rates. PM or email me your parts list if you are interested. We can also help with any tech questions you might have.

Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:29 PM
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Meatball964
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Robert (Super 90) did you reuse the pressure fittings on both ends of that Cohline 2240 (hose #12) ?
If so did you send that out to be done ?
Old 05-29-2018, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by S2K993
Robert (Super 90) did you reuse the pressure fittings on both ends of that Cohline 2240 (hose #12) ?
If so did you send that out to be done ?
I took it to Zim's Autotechnik (local to me) and they rebuilt it for me with my original end. The end that goes to the hardline on the firewall, you just use some fuel injection hose clamps...

New hose about to go to the hardline...



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