About to get a set of KW V3 -- any regrets?
05-06-2018, 07:15 AM
#31
Instructor
I've had V1s on three different cars love them. I know I'll never touch the suspension again once it's all set up, so don't see the need for V3s. V3s are only worth the outlay if you plan to fiddle a lot.
KW engineers know what they are doing.
KW engineers know what they are doing.
05-06-2018, 02:44 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
indeed very personal
for street use, i actually prefer stock shocks on 964 (just not the SUV ride ht look)
i really disliked KWV3. it felt like pogo stick
my MCS was butter on or off track
yes i realize there is a price difference. but if i dont like how they work, than one penny more is one penny wasted.
for street use, i actually prefer stock shocks on 964 (just not the SUV ride ht look)
i really disliked KWV3. it felt like pogo stick
my MCS was butter on or off track
yes i realize there is a price difference. but if i dont like how they work, than one penny more is one penny wasted.
It sounds maybe not, a road setup will be softer than the set up for a car only used on a track, did you not try a softer setting? You could have had the compliance you wanted with the lower ride height if you’d had a professional set it up properly, spending a few hundred is more of a necessity than a nice to have with a suspension set up which is infinitely adjustable unless you have the skills to DIY
05-06-2018, 11:55 PM
#33
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
^ it was set up by one of the best.
its not bad, but i am used to much better shocks. so that may be why i disliked it so much
its not bad, but i am used to much better shocks. so that may be why i disliked it so much
06-21-2018, 12:06 PM
#34
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I everything installed over the past week. Gotta love it when you go in to loosen the rear strut mount nuts and find that two on the left side are finger tight. Guess the previous shop tech that installed the H&R springs for the prior owner had fat fingers and/or a limited set of tools. Sheesh.
Also replaced my oil pressure gauge (was occasionally going bonkers) and temp sender while I was in there. Also cleaned a good bit of oil from the throttle body/intake manifold -- the previous owner must have overfilled the car at some point.
I used the Rennline front monoballs/camber plates. The combination of their bottom stepped bushing, the bearing and the top one piece stepped bushing/nut ends up being the same combined height as the threads on the front strut rod. What does this mean? It means you can't get a socket or wrench on the strut rod to hold it while you tighten the nut. Had to use a light duty impact wrench. Rennline is sending me a shorter stepped bushing/nut combo but I doubt it will give me enough to work with.
I have the shocks set to KW's recommended starting setting:
I'm going to drive for a few more days and probably back off a few more to see what the effect is.
Did a quick and dirty alignment, ended up with about 0.5 degrees of negative camber up front with the eccentric bolts turned for max camber and the camber plates set to min camber (hope that makes sense). I have about 1.2 degrees negative on the rear.
More to follow along with pics, etc. later.
Also replaced my oil pressure gauge (was occasionally going bonkers) and temp sender while I was in there. Also cleaned a good bit of oil from the throttle body/intake manifold -- the previous owner must have overfilled the car at some point.
I used the Rennline front monoballs/camber plates. The combination of their bottom stepped bushing, the bearing and the top one piece stepped bushing/nut ends up being the same combined height as the threads on the front strut rod. What does this mean? It means you can't get a socket or wrench on the strut rod to hold it while you tighten the nut. Had to use a light duty impact wrench. Rennline is sending me a shorter stepped bushing/nut combo but I doubt it will give me enough to work with.
I have the shocks set to KW's recommended starting setting:
- Front
- Rebound: 8 clicks open from full hard
- Bump: 6 clicks open from full hard
- Rear
- Rebound: 6 clicks open from full hard
- Bump: 4 clicks open from full hard
I'm going to drive for a few more days and probably back off a few more to see what the effect is.
Did a quick and dirty alignment, ended up with about 0.5 degrees of negative camber up front with the eccentric bolts turned for max camber and the camber plates set to min camber (hope that makes sense). I have about 1.2 degrees negative on the rear.
More to follow along with pics, etc. later.
06-22-2018, 03:49 PM
#35
The real issue is dampers are somewhat subjective. The goal is control but also feel and feedback to the drive as that enhances sense of control. My experience so far is the kw are good not great when compared do a damper that is 2-3x the cost. Fair? No. But it’s what I’m used to. 100s of track days with ohlins has tattooed my sense of what i like.
Like i said i find the control good. But feeling of the damping i find harsher than I’d like. But. I’m not giving up as there is much in the setup and calibration. We are trying some things.
Fwiw I’ve driven and driven in 3-4 cars with various bilstein setups and don’t like any of them. They feel similar to me. Harsh.
Like i said i find the control good. But feeling of the damping i find harsher than I’d like. But. I’m not giving up as there is much in the setup and calibration. We are trying some things.
Fwiw I’ve driven and driven in 3-4 cars with various bilstein setups and don’t like any of them. They feel similar to me. Harsh.
