CV/steering boot replacement "experiences"
 

As usual, what appears to be straight forward even in the Porsche manual was not for me...and not expected in my 94 C2 with 30k...felt they should have lasted longer. One steering and CV outer boot was found needing replacement...never drive it in the rain/snow anyway but it does get cold in MO...so it may had something to do with it. Looking at the OEM steering boot only 25-30% of it actually bellows and a "new" one is stiff. Obtained a 700 ft lb torque wrench(4ft long) and a hub puller but needed to buy a bearing puller since the factory seemed to forget any anti-seize on the inner race of the inner CV joint which absolutely had to be removed to replace the outer torn CV boot, inspected all other CV boots and not even a hint of degradation in any others..interesting. Thank God for the hub puller since a simple hammer did not budge to axle spindle but the hub puller was a champ, of course had to raise the suspension to clear it the shock. After removal of the metal cup, the clip and CV unit with the bearing puller noted that both ends of the middle bearing collar were beveled but more so on the outer hub side compared to the trans side. Replaced as much of the un-serviceable outer CV grease replaced with new grease, no evidence of contamination and no grease had migrated out of the torn boot. Used a hair drier to warm the new boots and put anti-seize on the inner race on reconstruction, bearings added and the new end clip. Of note was how much grease to add...the repair kit contained 2-80 gm packets per CV joint repair but the Porsche parts list only lists one100 gm tube, a fact discovered later...I used approximately 1 1/2 with a large amount added to the back side which later some was pushed into screw channels and had to be removed before final assembly. The new metal end cap that comes with the kit is a tight fit on the CV unit, used 3 screws to align it with the slots which used C-clamp to gradually push the cap onto the CV unit which created the leaks of grease into the screw channels. The distance between both CV caps was approximated to the original picture ensuring all screws slots would allow passage and alignment. Putting the unit back in was NOT helped by the new stiffer boots..discovered alignment into the hub was made much easier by raising the suspension again AND using a torx socket which fit into the center hole of the spindle and help by several extensions running thru the hub held by an assistant while slowly pushing from the trans side. The inner CV unit would not fit onto the trans attachment until most all of the axle nut had drawn the spindle into and thru the hub. Once all 6 pan-head screws were attached they needed balanced torquing to 58-60 ft l used a long extension to apply the require torque....a word of warning is required....the M10 used in C2 and M8 in C4 require different torques setting and the Bentley Data book is WRONG....the Porsche Factory manual list 59 ft lbs for the M10(C2) and 31 for the M8....use these number NOT what is in the data book. After proper torque and when wheel was back on the gorund used the 4 ft torque wrench to tighten the axle spindle to 340 ft lbs which it easily did.

Next was the steering boot repair and as usual things were an experience there too....there is very little room under the strut to remove the tie rod. Used a BAILCAST boot since it would fit over the removed tie rod attachment, the original new OEM boot appeared to be majorly stiff and would have been near impossible to replace even if warmed with a hair dryer. The root went on without a hitch and reassembly was again hampered by the poorly engineered space lacking under the strut but with MUCH effort finally got it back together.

Bled the brakes while had the car up and even the clutch unit....used a small 7mm wrench for the clutch...brakes feel much better for the 3 yr old fluid out now.

For all the 6 other 911s worked on I always seem to experience the time old saying...always prepare for the unexpected and the right tools make the job much easier. Still wondering why only one CV boot went and the others look great in my low mileage 964 but have all the tools and "experiences" to do it again.

There are after market CV boots that does not require you to dismantle the joints. They work by wrapping the boots and apply vulcanized sealant then use clamps on the shaft to complete the job. However, the end result is dependent on how good a job the DIYer did.

The BAILCAST boots do fit over a cone at the end of the tie-rod joint...it is a tight fit using any lubricant(I used a dry lubricant) over the cone to facilitate migration onto the steering tie-rod and tie-down are used to anchor the ends down....the OEM does not require any tie down but I can not see how exactly I would have ever been able to get this very stiff OEM boot over/onto the steering attachment even if the steering unit was completely disconnected from the tie-rod...By the way....in my discussion of the CV boot replacement....the boot tie down crimp clamps were used per the kit but had to make sure the crimped area did not interfere with the screw attachment of the CV onto the trans.

I recently did my 964 rear CV boot it is a messy job. Compared to a 993, it is a lot easier on the 964 due to the trailing arm versus the multi link set up. Did you use new pan head bolts and axle nut? Those pan head bolts make me very nervous when backing out. Round out the head, and it can get ugly. It didn't happen to me, phew!

Watched several videos of 993 CV/axle removal and definitely more complicated than the 964......I remember doing a engine removal and CV joint rebuild on my past 80 SC and all you needed to do is to remove the 6 pan-head screws from each side of the half-shaft and out it came....this 964 axle remove thing definitely more complicated. I had obtained long hex socket set which made it easier to remove these pan-head screws...but had to ensure that the hex was well seated before untightening....at near 60 ft lbs seated it did take some effort. I had obtained a couple extra axle nuts but it was said that you could reuse the original ones which I did....and when I happened to get the 32 mm sockets for that nut just happened to get the regular and DEEP socket which was absolutely needed. I was surprised to see that there were difference screws for the 964...M8 for C4 and M10 for C2 and definitely different torque settings and the BIG BIG error in the Bentley Data Tech book on BOTH the M8 and M10....had not seen anyone mention that before. At least I now know how to do it and have the tools to do it again if needed....

I used the C4 service manual, very clear that C4 M8 (42NM) C2 M10 (80NM). I had some new pan head bolts left over from my 993, thinking I would use them, until I remove discovered the M8s from my C4. A gorilla mechanic had been there before me, and I didn't like the look of the slightly rounded hex, so I went new.

The mess didn't bother me as much as guessing how much grease to put in there. To this day I have no idea if I put too much in, but I made damn sure I didn't put too little. Only about 3k on them since the rebuild. We'll see I guess.

Only put grease in the joint casing and don't get any in the boot area.

200 bucks? more like 1200 Cdn (900 US) pesos up here. are we being ripped off?

actually, Motor Werke in Kelowna quoted me 1200 bucks to replace 1 torn CV boot.
fortunately, i have the ability to crawl under my car - the boot was not torn - it was/is in perfect condition.
they also told me that my front brakes pads were so worn that they felt that it was a "serious safety issue" to drive the car any further - well, i drove it home anyways, popped the wheels off - still had 6 mm of pad left. got the pics to prove it.
they were responsible for burning out my CCU, as well - but that's another story .......
buyer beware.

The entire axle is only ~$550USD brand new from Porsche.

Yes.

Totally ripped off

Exactly

CV boots are the most rewarding DIY fix for the wallet as the parts are cheap and the workshop labour is expensive. The only thing I'm concerned about with my work is whether the cheaper boots are long lasting. Anyone who has wrestled with CV grease has no desire to go back in there sooner than necessary.