Wishbones and Subframes refresh - How to treat?
#1
Wishbones and Subframes refresh - How to treat?
I've got the front end off at the mo following an innocent steering rack refresh that turned into carnage!.. I had toyed with getting all the bits media blasted and sorted and then pier group pressure told me to get a life and drive it.... The OCD has returned and i wondered how folk are treating these units if at all once cleaned up?
I think they had no treatment other than the wax originally?
I could get them clear powder coated but wondered how long that would last. If ,having them natural and just waxing again is an option i'd probably rather do that...
Any ideas welcome.
I think they had no treatment other than the wax originally?
I could get them clear powder coated but wondered how long that would last. If ,having them natural and just waxing again is an option i'd probably rather do that...
Any ideas welcome.
#2
Three Wheelin'
If it's all off the car now then why not? I had mine media blasted before giving them a good coat of lacquer. Once assembled, I sprayed all the components with a clear cavity protection wax. They still look perfect a few years on.
#3
Any particular type of lacquer? I assume it is a UV stable one? And why not powder coat?
#4
Three Wheelin'
UV stability isn't much of a requirement for parts that live on the underside of the car
I went for lacquer as I wanted a clear coating. Yes you can have clear powder coating but you've got to have a really diligent guy to do it. Blasting and powder coating is a messy business and I usually find that grubby finger marks have been put onto the fresh metal surface before they've sprayed them. Might just be the shop I use.
I went for lacquer as I wanted a clear coating. Yes you can have clear powder coating but you've got to have a really diligent guy to do it. Blasting and powder coating is a messy business and I usually find that grubby finger marks have been put onto the fresh metal surface before they've sprayed them. Might just be the shop I use.
#5
I'm with you on that Rob.... Messy buggers...
Re the UV, I just dislike that yellowing that occurs and it will happen after a period even under the car.
Do you know if the originals were treated at all?. Other than the uber wax...
Re the UV, I just dislike that yellowing that occurs and it will happen after a period even under the car.
Do you know if the originals were treated at all?. Other than the uber wax...
#6
Three Wheelin'
I don't think so. Just a coating of cosmoline.
When reassembling give the bolt shanks a good coating of a non-metallic grease to reduce electrolytic reaction with the alloy parts. Mine where seriously furred up which made them a pig to remove.
When reassembling give the bolt shanks a good coating of a non-metallic grease to reduce electrolytic reaction with the alloy parts. Mine where seriously furred up which made them a pig to remove.
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#9
Formerly turbotwoshoes
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
https://www.eastwood.com/exoarmour.html
I used this on my control arms. I believe it is very close to what Gamroth uses on their engine cases. It is a high-tech armor coating that dries clear. I used paint removing gel, washed and then bead blasted my control arms before coating them with this. It is a two part chemical. Has a fairly strong odor, and dries clear and you cannot tell if it is on there after it dries. However, a year later after using it, my control arms still look new and nothing hardly sticks to them. It is very easy to use. You just mix the two parts and wipe on with a rag. It actually looks as if it is absorbed into the metal. I am very, very happy with the outcome. Expensive, but i only wanted to do this once. Watch the video that you can find in the link.
I used this on my control arms. I believe it is very close to what Gamroth uses on their engine cases. It is a high-tech armor coating that dries clear. I used paint removing gel, washed and then bead blasted my control arms before coating them with this. It is a two part chemical. Has a fairly strong odor, and dries clear and you cannot tell if it is on there after it dries. However, a year later after using it, my control arms still look new and nothing hardly sticks to them. It is very easy to use. You just mix the two parts and wipe on with a rag. It actually looks as if it is absorbed into the metal. I am very, very happy with the outcome. Expensive, but i only wanted to do this once. Watch the video that you can find in the link.
Last edited by Jacke2c; 01-16-2018 at 07:15 PM.
#10
https://www.eastwood.com/exoarmour.html
I used this on my control arms. I believe it is very close to what Gamroth uses on their engine cases. It is a high-tech armor coating that dries clear. I used paint removing gel, washed and then bead blasted my control arms before coating them with this. It is a two part chemical. Has a fairly strong odor, and dries clear and you cannot tell if it is on there after it dries. However, a year later after using it, my control arms still look new and nothing hardly sticks to them. It is very easy to use. You just mix the two parts and wipe on with a rag. It actually looks as if it is absorbed into the metal. I am very, very happy with the outcome. Expensive, but i only wanted to do this once. Watch the video that you can find in the link.
I used this on my control arms. I believe it is very close to what Gamroth uses on their engine cases. It is a high-tech armor coating that dries clear. I used paint removing gel, washed and then bead blasted my control arms before coating them with this. It is a two part chemical. Has a fairly strong odor, and dries clear and you cannot tell if it is on there after it dries. However, a year later after using it, my control arms still look new and nothing hardly sticks to them. It is very easy to use. You just mix the two parts and wipe on with a rag. It actually looks as if it is absorbed into the metal. I am very, very happy with the outcome. Expensive, but i only wanted to do this once. Watch the video that you can find in the link.
Checked, not in stock for a month.... If i'm lucky!
Thanks.
Last edited by stimpy32; 01-17-2018 at 10:19 AM. Reason: addition
#11
I had my suspension bushings replaced by Chuck at EPR. They media blasted and clear coated the parts before installing sport hardness bushings. The parts looked like new when returned. I’m not sure what they use for the clear coat however. Does anyone else know?
#14
Rennlist Member