Dingo

Thanks udo! Yes absolutely! In normal dingo fashion I done a massive amount of research on other people's installs before I did It! Next on the list is actually new shark fins as mine are some kind of crappy aftermarket ones that I hate!

Dingo

Thanks Jim! I love It!

Dingo

Being over cautious as usual, does this look like the correct oil filter for me?

John McM

Yes, it's correct. You'll also need two washers for the drain plugs and to work out how you are going to torque the drain plugs correctly. The one under the case is hard to get to with a torque wrench. Torque it too little and you risk it coming undone. Torque it too much and you risk deforming the case threads. Given how little mileage you are doing, I would concentrate on doing it right than doing it quickly. You also need a big oil pan as the old oil will come out hot and quickly.

Dingo

Thanks John, yes that was going to be my next question, I can't find the washers either, I had a quick look on the pet also. Thinking ill buy a stock so I don't have to muck around in the future. If I do the oil change over the pit at work would it be easy to access with torque wrench?
Do I even need to change the oil once a year if I only put about 1200k on It?

John McM

Note that the plug torque level has been previously misquoted. Off the top of my head it's 35 ft/lb or 50Nm

Before you do this, check the drain plug positions. I've heard of people undoing one of the oil relief plugs by mistake.

Aside from all of this, the biggest mistake people make is overfilling. An easy way to avoid this is to measure what you take out and only put that much back in, at the start.

Overall a simple job if done carefully. It's slightly more than drain and refill

John McM

Washer is 900-123-118-30 22x27x1.5

You need to raise the rear of the car to get the pan under the engine. Torque wrench issue is the heat exchangers getting in the way. Change oil every year no matter what mileage. I use Pentrite 10 tenths 15W 50. Lots of Zinc.

John McM

If you aren't doing much mileage, make it a practice to get it nice and hot when you do use it. This will help with any water condensation. If you find water in the oil you first drain from the thermostat, it shows lack of use. I found the same condensation in the right hand chain tensioner on the engine I'm now rebuilding.

Dingo

Great, thanks for the part number. Ok I think I'll have to Jack the car up and see what I'm in for.

Dingo

Yes I did read that somewhere. I all ways make sure I get it up to temperature before it gets put away.

John McM

Dean, this is what I bought to solve the torque wrench problem https://store.snapon.com/Standard-mm...r-P631801.aspx

John McM

You want to get it to a temp where the thermostat opens i.e. gauge goes to 10pm then drops to 9pm when it opens. This allows full flow of all oil in the system.

Dingo

Ok so I'm guessing I buy a 3/8 drive torque wrench? Man this is actually quite daunting first time!

John McM

I use 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" torque wrenches. Then use a set of adapters to work between sizes e.g. I use a 1/2" wrench with an adapter to 3/8" to fit the Snap-on tool.

Dingo

Man I can't afford 3 of them haha ok I'll buy the 1/2 and adaptor you listed, will be ordering oil filters ect' tonight. Ready for oil change in a few weeks or so.