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That happens with the old 964 dip sticks. The metal gets stressed from putting the dipstick in wrong- yes there is a right way to insert the dip....
Best thing for all of us to do is get a new 993 dip and be done, as it's twisted and has no v cuts in it and therefor won't crack like the 964 dips do.
That happens with the old 964 dip sticks. The metal gets stressed from putting the dipstick in wrong- yes there is a right way to insert the dip....
Best thing for all of us to do is get a new 993 dip and be done, as it's twisted and has no v cuts in it and therefor won't crack like the 964 dips do.
Thanks for the tip! I'll look into it as I'm about to place an order.
Well that was a mission! I barely touched the fittings and the hose tore in two pieces. I'll drop the hose off tomorrow and see if I can have it rebuilt.
Does anyone know if the end pieces are meant to swivel on the crimped part between hardline and hose?
The anaconda is out
Halfway through cleaning, you can see where the hose has been rubbing, its actually worn about 5mm into the underbody coating.
When thy rebuild your hose, make sure they "clock" the ends correctly. So match the tear up how it should be and look at both of the hard line ends and make sure the orientation one to the other is correct on the new hose once they reuse those ends.
Having a new braided line put in is easy. And a good quality braided line will be better than the hose Porsche offers new. But they orientation of those ends has to be close, if not spot on, to your original hose.
And. No, the hardline is not meant to swivel in the hose. It's meant to be tight and sealed.
Thanks for the knowledge goughary, I may have some trouble there as both of the hard ends rotate freely to the hose.
Here's what I plan to do, I'll only get the new hose crimped on to one end then I'll take it back home and fit it and mark the orientation on the other end, then go back and get that end crimped. Hopefully that would work.
Yes I have read many posts on poor quality of new oil lines so hopefully this works out for me.
Finally got the broken mount off the tank but unfortunately broke the nut off that was welded on. I don't think it matters as I could just put a nut and washer on.
Next step is stripping the paint. Not sure if I'll sand blast or use paint stripper.
Don't sand blast anything around the oil tank. Just strip and do it by hand. Much safer and less likely to make the mistake of having grit in the tank.
Be careful to prep the tank well for the paint. You won't be taking it out for a long time and you want good adhesion or it'll look like hell very quickly. A lot of stuff gets kicked up from the road and with the fumes and oils...you just want the paint to stay.
Thanks guys, I'll be using paint remover then. Nice project for the weekend! I'm thinking of using a black engine enamel spray, any thoughts on this? How would you flush the oil tank out? I was thinking of doing it just because I can.
08-18-2018, 08:58 PM
