Car won’t start after engine reseal - Solved, see post 17
12-09-2017, 03:34 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Car won’t start after engine reseal - Solved, see post 17
Today I finished putting together the car after lowering the engine to do a reseal due to a head stud failure.Everything seems to be going perfectly until I tried to start the car: no luck!!!!!Yes, I know that many things can be wrong and cause the car not to start, but believe it’s alarm related.Why?I notice that before, the alarm lights on the doors flashed just once after locking the car in regular intervals. Now, it takes them a few seconds to start flashing, and they do it differently: two very fast flashes with about one second intervals.No aftermarket alarms, just the original module. The “extension” module that uses the remote control was removed years ago. The car has been with the battery removed since march.Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!!!!
Last edited by MA7008O; 12-10-2017 at 04:56 PM. Reason: Solved
12-09-2017, 04:09 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Does it crank and just not fire up? If you did not prime the fuel system before hand, it could just be that it is not up to pressure and the car doesn't start right away. I had that experience when I finished all my work. It seemed to take quite a bit of running the starter before fuel pressure built up and then it coughed a couple of times and then ran smoothly.
12-09-2017, 05:38 PM
#5
Might be a long shot but are you sure the ground strap from the starter housing to the chassis got hooked up. When I put my engine Back in I spaced that step and had exact same issue crank over but wouldn’t start. Before dropping the engine to attach that wire I took a wire with alligator clips hooked one end to engine or trans to the chassis and she fired right up
12-09-2017, 06:25 PM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
12-09-2017, 06:26 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Might be a long shot but are you sure the ground strap from the starter housing to the chassis got hooked up. When I put my engine Back in I spaced that step and had exact same issue crank over but wouldn’t start. Before dropping the engine to attach that wire I took a wire with alligator clips hooked one end to engine or trans to the chassis and she fired right up
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12-10-2017, 06:14 AM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Just checked the DME realy and it’s fine.It’s seems as if the alarm is cutting the fuel pump power supply: if I run a cable directly I can ear it; with normal operation, I can´t.It’s a PITA!!!!
12-10-2017, 06:27 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
There are a number of inputs to the alarm itself. These include the stereo mount frame, the doors, the luggage compartment, the engine compartment, the rear package tray (if you have a rear seat delete) and also some "spare" inputs (at least the wiring diagram implies this).
When Arming the alarm, it looks at the seperate inputs and determines if any of the sensed lines are active (i.e. something is grounded). If so, it still activates the alarm, but notifies you that "something is not quite right" by double blinking the LED's.
To trip the alarm, one of the inputs must go active, i.e. stereo removed, hood opened, door opened etc. However, I don't think that the line that was *already* active would trip the alarm. I.e. if the glovebox was open, then while armed was shut then opened again while still armed, that it would trip the alarm. I think that the system "knows" that that circuit should be ignored, as the "arm condition" for that input was invalid to begin with (and told you so with the double flash).
Some conjecture in the above, but basically the double flash is telling you that one of the input lines is active upon arming. Probably in almost all cases where a stereo has been replaced, that will be the root cause.
12-10-2017, 06:30 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
The other possibility is that you’ve tripped a hidden switch that a previous owner used to disable the fuel pump. There was a thread a few years back on that.
Good luck
Good luck
12-10-2017, 08:30 AM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Update
I’m following this article (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...leshooting.htm) to check the DME relay functions again, as I can’t get the fuel pump to work.
I get battery voltage on 30 and on 86 (with ignition on). Ground on 85.Turning on the ignition, I get voltage at 87 (DME power supply) but not on 87b (fuel pump power supply): it seems as if the DME does not sends the signal to the relay to operate the fuel pump.
I checked the alarm and bridges some cables, so maybe this is not the problem anymore. Further, closed all doors and the flashes changed: now I get 5-6 flashed immediately, and then the regular ones.
What can cause the DME not to send the signal?
I am getting frustrated!!!!
Thanks!!!!
I’m following this article (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...leshooting.htm) to check the DME relay functions again, as I can’t get the fuel pump to work.
I get battery voltage on 30 and on 86 (with ignition on). Ground on 85.Turning on the ignition, I get voltage at 87 (DME power supply) but not on 87b (fuel pump power supply): it seems as if the DME does not sends the signal to the relay to operate the fuel pump.
I checked the alarm and bridges some cables, so maybe this is not the problem anymore. Further, closed all doors and the flashes changed: now I get 5-6 flashed immediately, and then the regular ones.
What can cause the DME not to send the signal?
I am getting frustrated!!!!
Thanks!!!!
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CraigC (08-26-2019)
12-10-2017, 01:11 PM
#14
Racer
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Have you checked spark? Pull a plug and see if its wet. Then connect plug to wire and ground plug. Crank engine and see if you get spark. If no spark check connections to coil drivers, etc.
Could the AFM have unplugged?
Had a hard time starting a car that sat. As Robert said, takes way longer than you'd think to charge fuel injection system. On a different car I'd try starter fluid, but on these cars backfires can pop the manifold.
A solid state DME will power fuel pump without cranking engine.
Is your battery fully charged? Check the voltage while cranking to make sure battery hasn't lost its cranking power.
Did you pull heads?
Take a deep breath. You'll get it.
Could the AFM have unplugged?
Had a hard time starting a car that sat. As Robert said, takes way longer than you'd think to charge fuel injection system. On a different car I'd try starter fluid, but on these cars backfires can pop the manifold.
A solid state DME will power fuel pump without cranking engine.
Is your battery fully charged? Check the voltage while cranking to make sure battery hasn't lost its cranking power.
Did you pull heads?
Take a deep breath. You'll get it.
12-10-2017, 01:46 PM
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Have you checked spark? Pull a plug and see if its wet. Then connect plug to wire and ground plug. Crank engine and see if you get spark. If no spark check connections to coil drivers, etc.
Could the AFM have unplugged?
Had a hard time starting a car that sat. As Robert said, takes way longer than you'd think to charge fuel injection system. On a different car I'd try starter fluid, but on these cars backfires can pop the manifold.
A solid state DME will power fuel pump without cranking engine.
Is your battery fully charged? Check the voltage while cranking to make sure battery hasn't lost its cranking power.
Did you pull heads?
Take a deep breath. You'll get it.
Could the AFM have unplugged?
Had a hard time starting a car that sat. As Robert said, takes way longer than you'd think to charge fuel injection system. On a different car I'd try starter fluid, but on these cars backfires can pop the manifold.
A solid state DME will power fuel pump without cranking engine.
Is your battery fully charged? Check the voltage while cranking to make sure battery hasn't lost its cranking power.
Did you pull heads?
Take a deep breath. You'll get it.
AFM is plugged. I unplugged and plugged all connectors again and nothing.
Interior light does not works either…..
Fuel system is not going to get pressurized if pump does not work. It just works if bridged at the DME relay, but not with just the key.
Battery is strong.
Yes, head were pulled off. Why?
Thanks again