MA7008O

I’m in the process of reconstructing my engine due to a head stud failure and right now I need to do the valve adjustment / distribution step.

It’s very important to do it right, engine is out with easy access, and it’s my first time with a 964 engine, so I decided to try with no rush to do it perfect: 0.10 mm.

Read many post, watched videos, etc.

Looking at different options, the dial method seems to be the more precise, but every time I change the position of the dial on the nut, the reading is different. I get it to read 0.10 mm, in one position, and double check it just bolting and unbolting the Z block, and the reading changes.

Also tried the 36 degrees angle screw driver method and the regular feeler gage method, but none can be double checked.
So, is there a bullet proof method?

Any advice will be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your time.

JasonAndreas

Kirk Engines Valve Lash Adjustment Tool for Air, Cooled 911s is easier (almost fool-proof) to get right than a dial gauge and just as accurate.

MA7008O

Interesting.

I saw it before, but did not pay too much attention.

Thanks for the advice.

Spokes

Like you I read many threads; I went round the valves 3 times and used 3 methods to check I had it right. I used

1:Porsche feeler gauge
2:Kirk Tool (borrowed)
3:Back Method

For me, the back method was the one I liked. Go / NoGo.

MA7008O

Back method would be to check the adjustment, not do actual do it, right?

Do you use metric feeler gages? What sizes?

Thanks,

JasonAndreas

The real benefit comes when you lockdown the adjusting nut. With the Kirk tool you will know exactly/if/how the elephant foot has moved. It is also a LOT easier to tighten it properly with the kirk tool in place.

JohnK964

You must be confident Only 3 times around I was so paranoid I bet I checked 6 times 😂😁

newsboy

Backside method is for adjusting, not just checking. Interesting article on the Kirk Tool.
http://ponderingporsches.blogspot.co...d-sort-of.html

MA7008O

Just ordered Kirk Tool. let's see how much it takes to flight over to Spain and how it goes.

Any detailed info on the backside method I can look at?

Thanks,

ffc

I have the Kirk tool and it works well but needs a third hand if you are working under the car so have a mate come over to help. You need to hold the tool, move the adjuster and tighten the nut simultaneously!

Once the adjustment is done check it with the backside method. Go/no go is really quick.

gouyou

I've tried the Kirk tool and the gauge dial + Z block, they probably work great with a proper lift. Having the car on jack stands, I've found that a combination of the 0.1mm feeler gauge and the backward method to confirm my adjustment worked best for me.

Spokes

I liked the Kirk Tool, however, there are a couple of cylinders for the tool it is tricky (same with the porsche feeler gauge), and I didn't have a willing helper. I found using the back method, you could easy make slight adjustment to whether you had a go / no go result, then recheck.

ffc

On the same topic how do any of you judge the force to be used tightening the adjuster nut?

newsboy

backside method
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...alveadjust.htm

MA7008O

Thanks for the backside method link.

I’ve doing some conversions, since I regularly use metric tools and only have a metric feeler gage.

On the British System side, we have:

• Gap at the valve: 0,004”
• Gap at the backside: 0,00286”
• % error go gage (0,0025”): -13%
• % error nogo gage (0,0030”): 5%.

On the Metric System side, we have:

• Gap at the valve: 0,1 mm
• Gap at the backside: 0,07143 mm
• % error go gage (0.05 mm): -30%
• % error nogo gage (0,10 mm): 40%.

Either I’m doing something wrong or this error values are out of specifications, at least using a metric set of gages.

Any comments?

Thanks again for all the help!!!!