fixing the busted cabrio top... let the fun begin!
#31
Drifting
Nothing will happen, as long the motors run with the same rotations and synchroised, and as long both drive cables won't brake. If you should unplug the cables, you can move the top up and down by hand.
#32
RL Community Team
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still going...
Here's something I didn't do right - last night while driving the top was very very noisy, and when I got home I noticed that it was really loose. Well, I did not properly attach this wire hook to the mounting bolt that I had to drill the special hole for. Now, with this wire properly mounted, the top is very firm and well sealed...
#33
Instructor
Just found this great thread for cabrio owners, and thought it worth bumping back up with a question (probably for garrett376).. Occasionally, when the top has been down for a few days, when I raise it the front latches do not engage first time, and I have to "help" by pulling a little a second time round for the front microswitches to make contact and engage the latch motors. Does this have to be fixed adjusting the rear microswitches for the "closed" position, assuming the closing action is stopped to soon by these?
#34
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Buenas dias, Madridcab... in your case, I would adjust the microswitch that you see on the top side of the passenger side transmission so it permits further extension of the top before the transmissions cut out. The transmissions will continue to operate until that switch is hit. If it gets hit too soon, the motors stop, and the top does not reach the windshield so the switches on the top-windshield contact area don't get pressed, and the latch motors won't activate.
I hope that helps!
I hope that helps!
#36
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Originally Posted by Madridcab
Muchas Gracias, just what I was looking for, while I am at it, does the transmission require any greasing or lubrication, if so, what and where?
#37
I have the same problem, with one side not turning and the other side sounds like a sinking ship... The gears are very clean, so there doesn't seem to be any damage, but before I tear the whole car apart, WHERE IS THE MOTOR? I know it is behind the seat, but I don't want to waste any time...
It appears that the passenger side cable is too short, the end doesn't look worn, maybe the socket in the motor is. When pushing on the worm gear, it turns, without pushing on it, it doesn't. The prev owner had it in about a million times and the morons at the dealer just kept resoldering everything, not ever looking past the connectors. When one side works and the other doesn't, it's not the wiring...
It appears that the passenger side cable is too short, the end doesn't look worn, maybe the socket in the motor is. When pushing on the worm gear, it turns, without pushing on it, it doesn't. The prev owner had it in about a million times and the morons at the dealer just kept resoldering everything, not ever looking past the connectors. When one side works and the other doesn't, it's not the wiring...
#38
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Hi Tonelux - in post #21 above you can see the two motors, hidden behind the carpet and padding - their bracket is held on by those two bolts....
#39
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ToneLux - Welcome to Rennlist! Sorry that your first post has to be a problem but -- that is why most people end up here! From your avatar, your car looks very nice!
Marc
Marc
#40
Thanks, I can now put away my jack hammer... This is my 6th, though don't have it in me to rebuild engines like I used to, I will force the motor to work correctly... I miss the 6 carbs I had on my 935, but this one doesn't pivot when I let up on the gas...
Thanks, I did look at the connector pins, it looks like they had either the wrong crip tool or the tension was set for a larger wire diameter, as these types of connections should never require soldering. A proper crimp is as gas tight as solder. I use crimps in the audio world, and when they are bad, you hear it right away...
Thanks, I did look at the connector pins, it looks like they had either the wrong crip tool or the tension was set for a larger wire diameter, as these types of connections should never require soldering. A proper crimp is as gas tight as solder. I use crimps in the audio world, and when they are bad, you hear it right away...
#41
By the way, if you want to see "the other side" check out www.gearslutz.com, it is the forum for all of us in the pro recording field. If you remove the word "Porsche" and replace it with "Tape Recorder", you have the same problems, just a different day...
#43
Well, I fixed it, and it all came down to the Germans trying to save a 1/4" of cable. The 1996 has a single motor (not like the dual motor, which most likely makes the top go up a lot faster)
The drive cable was not engauging with the motor drive on the passenger side. This would make the raising and lowering out of sync, which, as you can see from other posts, causes missed dates, cracked arms and broken posts.
I removed the motor (not required) to see the way it worked. The "speedometer" cable goes from the worm drive in the gear assy through a 2' cable to the motor. the squared end was only sticking out (best case) 1/4". The problem was that it could even move in further, so it would not turn.
I will not allow my car to beat me, so, I removed both cables (be careful, the whole rear area is held together with 3M 77 glue...everywhere) Slid the ends off (a little force) and then carefully bent flush the barbs that dig into the cable to hold it secure at the end, then I removed a little more than 1/4" from the plastic cable jacket, then replaced the end cap as shown below, remembering to re-secure the cap with a sharp tool to insert the barbs into the cable.
They now stick out more than 1/2" and went in perfectly. Aligning was a bit of a pain, a mix of listeneing to strain and adjusting the assy's by eye.
If you do this before the front motor recall, they have to re-align the roof...
Thanks for the hints and pix, it did the trick.
The drive cable was not engauging with the motor drive on the passenger side. This would make the raising and lowering out of sync, which, as you can see from other posts, causes missed dates, cracked arms and broken posts.
I removed the motor (not required) to see the way it worked. The "speedometer" cable goes from the worm drive in the gear assy through a 2' cable to the motor. the squared end was only sticking out (best case) 1/4". The problem was that it could even move in further, so it would not turn.
I will not allow my car to beat me, so, I removed both cables (be careful, the whole rear area is held together with 3M 77 glue...everywhere) Slid the ends off (a little force) and then carefully bent flush the barbs that dig into the cable to hold it secure at the end, then I removed a little more than 1/4" from the plastic cable jacket, then replaced the end cap as shown below, remembering to re-secure the cap with a sharp tool to insert the barbs into the cable.
They now stick out more than 1/2" and went in perfectly. Aligning was a bit of a pain, a mix of listeneing to strain and adjusting the assy's by eye.
If you do this before the front motor recall, they have to re-align the roof...
Thanks for the hints and pix, it did the trick.
#44
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Tonelux, I don't think the Germans were saving any cable. Over time the cables become shorter because they are wound and shorten from use. Another factor is that the casing stretches from repeated use. Possibly a little of both. At any rate congrats on your succesful fix.
#45
I just got my first Porsche, a '91 Cab in Guards Red. It was my Anniversary present from my wife!!!! It was in the driveway when I got home from work 3 days ago with a big bow on it.
Tonelux, your picture with the cable, motor diagram, etc. was exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks for the help.
Tonelux, your picture with the cable, motor diagram, etc. was exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks for the help.