Engine rebuild....ground zero
#16
Rennlist Member
My notes showed I needed 94cm with the bumper off to get the engine out. I used a cheap ATV jack which would not go ultra low. As noted above the minimum height of the ATV jack affects the height required.
#17
It is not to difficult to remove intake manifolds,AFM,alternator and the rest on top of engine while still n the car
#19
Rennlist Member
John McM: Some of your threads will be quite helpful for me when I get to the reassemble stage. Will try to mimic your "operating room" approach, all about preparation. Trying to take a Zen approach to the whole process by taking my time avoiding mistakes. Too easy to go medieval when things won't budge.
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Fine, but if it doesn't start, I'll have security see you out. You don''t want to see a grown man cry lol.
Update: packed up my lower case halves, crank, cam holders & rods. Sending to Ollies for cleaning of oil galleys & polish (crank). Next is to remove oil tank, cooler & lines for cleaning. Basically anything that touches oil needs to be cleaned...messy stuff. Pics to come.
Update: packed up my lower case halves, crank, cam holders & rods. Sending to Ollies for cleaning of oil galleys & polish (crank). Next is to remove oil tank, cooler & lines for cleaning. Basically anything that touches oil needs to be cleaned...messy stuff. Pics to come.
Last edited by Meatball964; 07-24-2017 at 09:55 PM.
#25
Rennlist Member
Nicely done Bill! Look forward seeing all the clean parts come back.
Fine, but if it doesn't start, I'll have security see you out. You don''t want see a grown man cry lol.
Update: packed up my lower case halves, crank, cam holders & rods. Sending to Ollies for cleaning of oil galleys & polish (crank). Next is to remove oil tank, cooler & lines for cleaning. Basically anything that touches oil needs to be cleaned...messy stuff. Pics to come.
Update: packed up my lower case halves, crank, cam holders & rods. Sending to Ollies for cleaning of oil galleys & polish (crank). Next is to remove oil tank, cooler & lines for cleaning. Basically anything that touches oil needs to be cleaned...messy stuff. Pics to come.
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update: parts (case/crank etc) on there way back.....finally. Ive learned you can't be in a hurry during racing season. My own DE track season is over so I can dive back into this project. Just removed oil tank (PITA) & oil cooler. The oil guide tube fitting wouldn't budge so I pulled it out still attached. Even on the bench it won't move. Quality flare nut wrench, pb blasted...no go. I'll keep soaking it. Too easy to twist the copper line so trying to be careful. Off to Pacific oil coolers for cleaning/rehab/repaint/test. Oil cooler showing signs of a leak so having it reverse flow cleaned (multiple times), straighten fins, pressure chk & paint is definitely in order. Next I'll pull the thermostat & oil lines to clean/refurb. Will research my options on the 2 soft lines, perhaps replace w/new fittings. More to come....
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update: oil cooler/oil tank rec'd and installed. They look like new! Oil lines flushed/installed, next is the oil thermostat...that cap is a bugger.
Crank magnafluxed/cleaned/balanced as well as rods rebushed/balanced w/ARP bolts, new nose bearing & timing chains. Hoping to have the lower case buttoned
up in a week or so. Finally starting to look like an engine lol.
Crank magnafluxed/cleaned/balanced as well as rods rebushed/balanced w/ARP bolts, new nose bearing & timing chains. Hoping to have the lower case buttoned
up in a week or so. Finally starting to look like an engine lol.
Last edited by Meatball964; 11-19-2017 at 06:28 PM.
#30
Nice work!
An engine builder once told me that unless the engine only has less than 70k miles, a "re-seal" is a joke. Unless the only thing going on is nuisance oil leaks that you can truly fix by replacing some seals, you'll be glossing over other things that need to be done, and you'll be back in there before you want.
An engine builder once told me that unless the engine only has less than 70k miles, a "re-seal" is a joke. Unless the only thing going on is nuisance oil leaks that you can truly fix by replacing some seals, you'll be glossing over other things that need to be done, and you'll be back in there before you want.