ScottR

Just thought that I'd pass on that it is possible to replace the power steering return line middle section (runs underneath from front of car to up into the engine bay just in front of the air box) without removing the engine.

I post this because I was told by my garage and by doing some research on forums that it would need a (at least partial) engine drop to get the line in. Faced with a costly repair I patched the line last year to stop it weeping from a corroded bend but it sprang a (big) leak again a couple of weeks ago and it was time to replace it.

So, not wanting to pay for an engine drop, I thought I'd have a go (nothing to lose because I could still take it for the engine drop if I failed). And I'm pleased to say it can be done .

Easy - no!
Time consuming - yes!
Would I want to do it again in a hurry - no!
Do you need to have the hands of a child - yes!

I'm afraid I didn't take any pics but bascially, to do it I had to:

1) Remove engine and gearbox trays
2) Remove air box
3) Undo rear sway bar (left it hanging on drop links but would have been easy if I could have got it completely out the way)
4) Undo RHS hose from heat exchanger to the heat control box (think that's what it is!) - easier if you can remove it completely but the bottom Jubilee clip on mine was well and truly stuck!)
5) Disconnect accelerator cable and pull back through to front of gearbox (the return line sits above it so difficult to get it out/in with it in the way)
6) Undo all the plastic clips holding the line in place
7) Undo each end where it's connected to the other pieces - WARNING - fluid will spill out so have a tub ready.
8) Pull the old line out by weaving it around (mine actually snapped at this point on the corroded corner!) - Easier to cut it if you can and pull out rather than go through the stress of weaving if it's going to be discarded.
9) "Thread" the new line in. Now this is the hard part!! It takes a lot of patience, trial and error and you need room at the side of the vehicle and a good amount of clearance underneath to position the line at strange angles to get it up through to the engine bay. I found that positioning the long straight part of the line out to the left of the car enabled me to get it up.
10) Re-connect and put everything else back!

The line tucks behind some flexible brake lines and this is the scariest bit - putting the brake lines under tension to get the return line up.

The return line has a angled rubber hose end on it and this causes issues trying to push it up to poke out in the engine bay. But is is possible with a lot of heaving, cursing, and will power!

At this point, I was beside myself I had got the new line in without having to get the engine dropped. However, disappointment soon reigned when I try to clamp it back in. It seems that the replacement (Porsche) part doesn't quite have the same geometry as the original line. So it doesn't sit quite like the original, which means the plastic clips holding in place are not quite holding it tight to the body and are under a bit of stress.

But hey, it's in, and it didn't cost me an engine drop.

Sorry for the long winded post but hopefully this will be of use to someone who may be contemplating the repair also.

Cheers
Scott