The rebuild begins ...
11-29-2005, 12:18 PM
#76
Three Wheelin'
Marc A.: Thanx for the compliment, but half of these pics are from sundog as well. I am just 'borrowing' his thread occasionally since it appears we are doing our rebuilds at exactly the same time. (He hasn't yelled at me yet so I figure he doesnt mind. 
)
AXLE, Thanx for the links I will check them out!
Jason, That souns like good advice. I am doing the order for all the clutch parts through sunset imports, and when I have the list of the required engine parts I will check out the prices from them as well.
Sundog: Looks like you are flying along now! Don't feel shy about posting more pictures. If my cam tool comes in this week I hope to remove my heads this weekend as well. Feel free to post pics of the different steps! (Whats a cylinder holder?) I wouldn't mind the step by step pics from the point where you started removing the cam gears. (Was that part hard?)
I have gotten sidetracked putting insulation and a heater in the garage because its getting too cold to work out there.
Kirk
)AXLE, Thanx for the links I will check them out!
Jason, That souns like good advice. I am doing the order for all the clutch parts through sunset imports, and when I have the list of the required engine parts I will check out the prices from them as well.
Sundog: Looks like you are flying along now! Don't feel shy about posting more pictures. If my cam tool comes in this week I hope to remove my heads this weekend as well. Feel free to post pics of the different steps! (Whats a cylinder holder?) I wouldn't mind the step by step pics from the point where you started removing the cam gears. (Was that part hard?)
I have gotten sidetracked putting insulation and a heater in the garage because its getting too cold to work out there.
Kirk
11-29-2005, 01:39 PM
#77
Race Director
Thread Starter
Kirk, Heck no I don't mind. I think that we are posting complimentary information. What I think might be easy, may be a challenge to you, and vice versa.
The cylinder holding nuts are just an easy way of keeping the cylinders in place when you rotate the engine to get parts off. Don't want a cylinder to dropp onto the floor! Here's a link to the automotion site, but you can get them anywhere. Cylinder Holding Nuts
I didn't post the step by step for the cam sprocket removal, because Axle covered them in sufficient detail in his top end rebuild thread on the Pelican board. It's not hard, but make sure that you keep track of the number of shims on each cam sprocket. Also, I backed off all of the rockers so that I wouldn't force a valve into a piston if I slipped taking off the sprocket nut. Wait to get the timing chain housing all the way off until you get the cam/head assembly off, it is much easier that way.
Crivens, It took me a long time to get the engine out, because I was writing down all of the steps, and taking pictures, and labelling everything. Also, because my 15yr old daughter was helping, and I was explaining what everything did. When I put this beast in, I want everything to go very smoothly. I rebuilt a Peugeot back in 1975, and when I was done, I had a bin full of bolts left over. It still ran for another 7 years, but I always wondered where those bolts went? I don't think that the German Engineers at Porsche left that much room for error. Also, If I did it in less than an hour, I couldn't stay in the garage and ...
The cylinder holding nuts are just an easy way of keeping the cylinders in place when you rotate the engine to get parts off. Don't want a cylinder to dropp onto the floor! Here's a link to the automotion site, but you can get them anywhere. Cylinder Holding Nuts
I didn't post the step by step for the cam sprocket removal, because Axle covered them in sufficient detail in his top end rebuild thread on the Pelican board. It's not hard, but make sure that you keep track of the number of shims on each cam sprocket. Also, I backed off all of the rockers so that I wouldn't force a valve into a piston if I slipped taking off the sprocket nut. Wait to get the timing chain housing all the way off until you get the cam/head assembly off, it is much easier that way.
Crivens, It took me a long time to get the engine out, because I was writing down all of the steps, and taking pictures, and labelling everything. Also, because my 15yr old daughter was helping, and I was explaining what everything did. When I put this beast in, I want everything to go very smoothly. I rebuilt a Peugeot back in 1975, and when I was done, I had a bin full of bolts left over. It still ran for another 7 years, but I always wondered where those bolts went? I don't think that the German Engineers at Porsche left that much room for error. Also, If I did it in less than an hour, I couldn't stay in the garage and ...
11-29-2005, 03:00 PM
#78
Rennlist Member
Bryan, you might want to use rubber bands across the head studs to hold the rods in mid air so they don't bang against the cylinder side wall. While it is good to note the number of shims behind the cam sprockets, you wil need to properly align them again. I had to increase the number of shims behind one sprocket to be correct. I have some spare shims when you need them-freebie.
12-08-2005, 03:05 AM
#79
Race Director
Thread Starter
Well, I split the case this evening, and the rod bearing for #3 cylinder is a gonner. It has "spun" on the crank as well. Damage to the crank looks not too bad. Will begin cleaning and evaluating parts now. I am going to clean out each and every component which is exposed to oil, all the way up to the cooler. The #3 bearing failure is indicitave of "foreign matter" in the oil system. Most likely due to an incomplete cleaning on the previous rebuild.
12-08-2005, 10:57 AM
#80
Three Wheelin'
Sundog,
Those are some good pics. What does the crank journal look like?
I am still stuck on the sidelines trying to get my garage insulated. grr. Hopefully before xmas I can get back to my motor.
Kirk
Those are some good pics. What does the crank journal look like?
I am still stuck on the sidelines trying to get my garage insulated. grr. Hopefully before xmas I can get back to my motor.
Kirk
12-08-2005, 03:17 PM
#82
Rennlist Member
Bryan, do you have good mcirometers to measure with? You can borrow mine. Also, I have been told by a well known mechanic that if you have a spun bearing, you need to replace the oil cooler as one can never quite get it really clean
12-08-2005, 11:29 PM
#83
Race Director
Thread Starter
I am either going to get a new cooler, or have it cleaned by an aircraft engine reconditioner. If somebody is willing to take a reconditioned oil cooler to 18,000 feet, I'll trust that!
I've got a bunch of measuring devices at the office, sounds like a deduction to me.
I've got a bunch of measuring devices at the office, sounds like a deduction to me.
01-15-2006, 02:40 AM
#88
Three Wheelin'
Well, I finally got a chance to catch up to sundog, and finish the dismantling of my case.
Everything in my case looks pristine. The bearings are in great shape, etc. However my car is an '89 model that never got the cylinder head update. So now I am reviewing all the different options to fix the problem.
Here are pictures showing my gasketless cylinders & heads.
Also I came across a note in a book that said:
"In 1991 the cylinder base o-ring was changed from the original black silicon O-ring to a green viton O-ring" (pg 96 porsche 911 Handbook, Bruce Anderson)
I believe these O-rings to be a source of significant leaking in my car. While Idling I could watch oil pool at the joint between the cylinder base and the engine block and drip out on cylinders 1,2,4. After dissassemby I verified my car did indeed have the black silicon O-rings.
Kirk
Everything in my case looks pristine. The bearings are in great shape, etc. However my car is an '89 model that never got the cylinder head update. So now I am reviewing all the different options to fix the problem.
Here are pictures showing my gasketless cylinders & heads.
Also I came across a note in a book that said:
"In 1991 the cylinder base o-ring was changed from the original black silicon O-ring to a green viton O-ring" (pg 96 porsche 911 Handbook, Bruce Anderson)
I believe these O-rings to be a source of significant leaking in my car. While Idling I could watch oil pool at the joint between the cylinder base and the engine block and drip out on cylinders 1,2,4. After dissassemby I verified my car did indeed have the black silicon O-rings.
Kirk
01-15-2006, 02:49 AM
#90
Three Wheelin'
Dissassemblyof the cam housing went smoothly. Remove the individual rockers, bag & tag them. remove the camshafts, tap the bolts with a rubber mallet to sperate each head and thats about it.
These heads will require machining for either a 3.2 930 turbo style fire ring, a 964 steel head gasket ring, or machined flat and reassembled without the fix. When they are sent in for that work I will have them inspected, new valve guides, and a valve job done.
Kirk
These heads will require machining for either a 3.2 930 turbo style fire ring, a 964 steel head gasket ring, or machined flat and reassembled without the fix. When they are sent in for that work I will have them inspected, new valve guides, and a valve job done.
Kirk