Addendum to "CV joint disassembly tips please!"
 

Autozone rents a 5-ton puller (the arms on the 2-ton are too short) for a $40USD (fully refundable) deposit. On a lot of driveshafts the joint won't just pop off the shaft so the alternative is wacking it with a hammer which can damage the outer bearing cage. Autozone also rents a strap compressor so that you can reuse your existing clamps which means you only need to replace the boots ($4USD at EBSRacing, part #POR052856) and 16oz of grease (Swepco - $9USD, Optimoly NR - $16USD, Krytox GPL-217 - $200USD).

https://members.rennlist.com/jandrea...int-puller.jpg

If you completely disassemble the CV joint (not necessary) for cleaning
https://members.rennlist.com/jandrea...sassembled.jpg

than there are two ways to put it back together. The easy way:
https://members.rennlist.com/jandrea...g-Assembly.jpg

and the slightly more difficult way:
http://members.rennlist.com/jandreas...t-Assembly.jpg

And when it comes to reassembly (before you put the inner race back onto the driveshaft) you must lube the driveshaft spline with Optimoly HT (copper grease). The threaded portion of the CV joint bolts should also be lubed but don't get anything on the flange cover. The torque spec for the driveshaft panhead screws of size (M8) are 42 Nm (31 ft.lb) or for (M10) 80 Nm (59 ft.lb).


When installing the dust boots onto the CV joints Porsche originally spec'ed an adhesive (3M Scotch seal 750) between the large end of the dust boot and the sealing flange joint.