1991 c2 Cutting out/stalling after trip to body shop
04-09-2005, 11:33 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1991 c2 Cutting out/stalling after trip to body shop
My 91 c2 (83k miles) was in the body shop to have the fixed wing installed last week. Prior to this we had just driven over 800 miles without any issue at all. After getting the car back I started having a check engine light come on. This happen for a couple of day and then I got the christmas tree lights on the dash and it seeme dto have a tiny miss every once in a while while driving. This morning I have major lose of power, stalling, christmas tree, check engine..etc etc. I am getting the 1134 code off the check engine light.
I am going to take a look to see if I can see the arcing from the ignition tonight as it is too light to see now.
I have read the posts on this issue but I am wondering if something could have gotten unplugged of bumped of damaged at the shop that would have caused this. Having just drivin it so far without so much as a check engine light it is odd to have all these issue popping up now.
So, Any ideas?
I am going to take a look to see if I can see the arcing from the ignition tonight as it is too light to see now.
I have read the posts on this issue but I am wondering if something could have gotten unplugged of bumped of damaged at the shop that would have caused this. Having just drivin it so far without so much as a check engine light it is odd to have all these issue popping up now.
So, Any ideas?
04-09-2005, 12:16 PM
#2
Burgled
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Maybe something is amiss from the unhooking the auto spoiler? Some wire grounding maybe or shorting. Look good in that area.
04-09-2005, 06:32 PM
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The spoiler wires are all cliped in where they were before on the boot lid. I thought of that first thing but I can't see anything that would lead me to believe there is any short in those wires.
To reset the DME, would i just disconnect the battery for a while? hour or so?
Thanks
To reset the DME, would i just disconnect the battery for a while? hour or so?
Thanks
04-09-2005, 06:43 PM
#5
Super Duper Moderator
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
To reset DME, disconnect battery for 15 - 20 minutes and then reconnet. Start it up, let it idle for a few minutes, and then go for a "spirited" drive.
Marc
Marc
04-09-2005, 07:26 PM
#6
Burgled
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
you need to let it idle 2 minutes or so before you take off. Search on here for reset DME. There is a sequence you need to follow. dont just hook up and go!
04-09-2005, 09:57 PM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just put it back together. I started it up and it appeared to idle well. The check engine light came on (1134) and after about 30 seconds the engine started to suge and died. Re srated and had the same thing happen. Seems to be running the same (terrible)
Now what
Now what
Trending Topics
04-09-2005, 11:57 PM
#8
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
In the photo below the red arrow points to the ground point for the ignition coils. To the right of it (green arrow) is the ground point for a fixed rear wing. Your body shop may have loosened the nut for the ignition coil ground. Also check to make sure the rear wing ground is going to the right place. The connectors (the switch that Indy described) circled in blue are on the low-voltage side of the ignition coils so if your going to test the distributor pull those and not your ignition wires.
With the car turned off you can check the connector on the dual-distributor. 1134 is a constant fault so its probably not the connector but check it anyway. For some reason Porsche mounted the sensor on the main distributor instead of the secondary so when you do get a hall-sensor fault it usually means something other than a broken belt.
What method of turning off the rear spoiler warning light did your bodyshop use? Did they jumper the connector in the engine compartment or pull the connector from the controller?
Its obviously something they did so I would force them to fix it.
With the car turned off you can check the connector on the dual-distributor. 1134 is a constant fault so its probably not the connector but check it anyway. For some reason Porsche mounted the sensor on the main distributor instead of the secondary so when you do get a hall-sensor fault it usually means something other than a broken belt.
What method of turning off the rear spoiler warning light did your bodyshop use? Did they jumper the connector in the engine compartment or pull the connector from the controller?
Its obviously something they did so I would force them to fix it.
04-10-2005, 12:26 AM
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will check out the grounds. Thanks for all the info. The spoiler warning was left for me to disable per my instructions. I pulled the connector under the dash to disable it but I reconnected it today because of the issues I was having. I was trying to see if the were connected in any way. Appears not.
04-10-2005, 12:38 AM
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well the grounds seem to be untouched. This would be an area that something could have happened in though as they were going to replace the lid shock but were unable to figure out how to get an arm back there. The photo is of a piece I did find that is not right. Where the duct meets the rubber seal it is not into the rubber and I am having a b$tch of a time getting it back in there. Would that cause any issues?
Going to check the coils now.
Going to check the coils now.
04-10-2005, 12:45 AM
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I have no idea what this mean so someone will have to explain but...
I unplugged the forward most coil and the car ran ok. Not super smooth but it never died, even after I revved the engine. I plugged that back in and unplugged the rear coil. Now the car is spitting and sputtering and died after about 15 seconds.
Did I just figure out something?
I unplugged the forward most coil and the car ran ok. Not super smooth but it never died, even after I revved the engine. I plugged that back in and unplugged the rear coil. Now the car is spitting and sputtering and died after about 15 seconds.
Did I just figure out something?
04-10-2005, 01:45 AM
#12
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Pasadena, MD - Land of Taxes
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
It would seem something is wrong with the second distributor. Perhaps the belt that syncs them both together, maybe some bad plug wires, distrubutor cap or rotor. It seems strange though that this would happen in a short period while in the body shop. Unless they took your car out and ran it hard... Perhaps damaging your belt... Or something else.
I can't remember what year they started (and I'm too lazy now to get Adrian's book) but is your distributor vented?
I can't remember what year they started (and I'm too lazy now to get Adrian's book) but is your distributor vented?
04-10-2005, 09:44 AM
#14
From your description, it could be that you have a duff coil. When I had running problems some time ago, my mechanic advised me to wait until it was running badly and then try it on one coil at a time. He said that they had seen the situation several times in the past where a bad coil could cause running problems - even though it shouldn't because the two work independently.
04-10-2005, 08:01 PM
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok,
I switched the coil wires. The problem goes away with the wires switched. Not just on one coil. The whole thing... the check engine light turns off and all is good with the world. Switched them back and check engine pops right on. Only thing to note is the wire from the furthest coil is REALLY streching to get to dist#1 when i switch them.
I can't seem to figure out how the caps over the coils are supposed to come off either.. seemed to be easy but they are still there mocking me.
I pulled the caps and took a look inside #1 was looking tired and it couldn't hurt to be replaced. i cleaned up the contacts and put it back together. #2 is better but I think it could use it too.
But i can't figure out why switching the wires makes such a differnece...
I switched the coil wires. The problem goes away with the wires switched. Not just on one coil. The whole thing... the check engine light turns off and all is good with the world. Switched them back and check engine pops right on. Only thing to note is the wire from the furthest coil is REALLY streching to get to dist#1 when i switch them.
I can't seem to figure out how the caps over the coils are supposed to come off either.. seemed to be easy but they are still there mocking me.
I pulled the caps and took a look inside #1 was looking tired and it couldn't hurt to be replaced. i cleaned up the contacts and put it back together. #2 is better but I think it could use it too.
But i can't figure out why switching the wires makes such a differnece...
Originally Posted by Indycam
"So is there other troubleshooting or should I start firing off orders for stuff?"
Dont order any parts untill you know what parts you want . You can spend gobs of money replaceing good parts on a 964 .
You have two of everything allready .
Two coils , two caps , two rotors , two switchs ...
The belt is ok because the car runs a little . If the belt was a gonner , the motor would not run at all .
The spark would be so far off that it would not fire at all .
Check to see that the wires are on the cap in the right place .
If the guys at the body shop removed the wires , not that I think they should have, but who knows ,
they might have put them back in the wrong order .
If the wires are on ok , and it still runs , junk , switch the coil wires , 1 for 2 and 2 for 1 .
So that the coils are connected to the other distributor .
Then do the pulling of the switch plug test again .
Does the problem follow the coil ? If not its not the coil.
The plug to the switch , switch them to see if the problem follows the switch . If not ,its not da switch
If you have tested the coils and switches and found them to be good . Move one coil wire over to the other spot , pull them off at top and bottom and put them back on in the others spot . Does the problem follow the coil wire ? If not , its not da coil wire .
If its not the coil , switch or coil wire , on to the cap and rotor .
Pull the cap on the bad one a have a look see at the inside and outside , pull the black plastic cover off and look for burnt / black / tan / dryness / tracking . Have a good look see at the rotor for the same . If they are gonners , replace them . If they look good switch the rotors from one to the other .
Does the problem follow the rotor? If not its not da rotors .
If it still runs junk , try switch the caps . Problem follows the cap ? If not , its not da caps .
Now for the real good fun , pull the spark plugs , replace them with a fresh set . Still run bad ?
Switch out the spark plug wires .
Its a lot of time eating humbug but its nice to run down the bugger . When you can say , I found you, you sob , and now you are history .
Dont order any parts untill you know what parts you want . You can spend gobs of money replaceing good parts on a 964 .
You have two of everything allready .
Two coils , two caps , two rotors , two switchs ...
The belt is ok because the car runs a little . If the belt was a gonner , the motor would not run at all .
The spark would be so far off that it would not fire at all .
Check to see that the wires are on the cap in the right place .
If the guys at the body shop removed the wires , not that I think they should have, but who knows ,
they might have put them back in the wrong order .
If the wires are on ok , and it still runs , junk , switch the coil wires , 1 for 2 and 2 for 1 .
So that the coils are connected to the other distributor .
Then do the pulling of the switch plug test again .
Does the problem follow the coil ? If not its not the coil.
The plug to the switch , switch them to see if the problem follows the switch . If not ,its not da switch
If you have tested the coils and switches and found them to be good . Move one coil wire over to the other spot , pull them off at top and bottom and put them back on in the others spot . Does the problem follow the coil wire ? If not , its not da coil wire .
If its not the coil , switch or coil wire , on to the cap and rotor .
Pull the cap on the bad one a have a look see at the inside and outside , pull the black plastic cover off and look for burnt / black / tan / dryness / tracking . Have a good look see at the rotor for the same . If they are gonners , replace them . If they look good switch the rotors from one to the other .
Does the problem follow the rotor? If not its not da rotors .
If it still runs junk , try switch the caps . Problem follows the cap ? If not , its not da caps .
Now for the real good fun , pull the spark plugs , replace them with a fresh set . Still run bad ?
Switch out the spark plug wires .
Its a lot of time eating humbug but its nice to run down the bugger . When you can say , I found you, you sob , and now you are history .