G-pipe secondary bypass fitting guide
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 938
Likes: 13
From: Windsor, England
G-pipe secondary bypass fitting guide
Ok,
Here's my pictoral G-Pipe fitting guide for non-technical types. (thanks to Johnny G Pipe for his instructions
)
Tools Needed:
Socket Set
Spanners
Car/Trolley Jack
WD40 (penetrating oil)
Torch/Light Source
A Bucket
Grease
A helper (for about 5 mins)
Step 1 . Loosen wheel nuts on the rear offside wheel . Jack up . Take wheel off
Step 2 . Look under car behind tailpipe . Spray both bolts ends with WD40 . Roughly measure gap between top of tailpipe and bumper
Step 3 . Support silencer with bucket . Use spanners to remove tail pipe bolt . Gently prise open clamp 1cm or so, twist tail pipe to remove catching the 'donut' if it comes loose . Repeat for other bolt to primary silencer
Step 4 . With socket wrench, remove the 2 nuts at the wheel end of the silencer . Grease the threads of the welded in bolts to protect them and refit the nuts (the bracket itself can be removed completely if desired - 2 bolts) . Remove silencer
Step 5 . Work out which way round G-pipe needs to go - The tailpipe will stick out about 4" from the bumper if its wrong! - Press donut to G-pipe with clamp loosely over the top, then press tailpipe into otherside of donut . Half tighten clamp with original bolt .
Step 6 . Get helper to hold the tailpipe in place . Press other donut into primary silencer, with clamp over the top . Gently press G-pipe into donut . Get it nice and straight . Half tighten clamp bolt . Now check tailpipe looks like it spot on in the middle and the gap between it and the bumper is as before (you'll have to account for some movement while accelerating). Fully tighten up the bolts .
Step 7 . Put wheels back on . Remove jack . Fire the engine up and laugh at how great it sounds .
Here's my pictoral G-Pipe fitting guide for non-technical types. (thanks to Johnny G Pipe for his instructions
)Tools Needed:
Socket Set
Spanners
Car/Trolley Jack
WD40 (penetrating oil)
Torch/Light Source
A Bucket
Grease
A helper (for about 5 mins)
Step 1 . Loosen wheel nuts on the rear offside wheel . Jack up . Take wheel off
Step 2 . Look under car behind tailpipe . Spray both bolts ends with WD40 . Roughly measure gap between top of tailpipe and bumper
Step 3 . Support silencer with bucket . Use spanners to remove tail pipe bolt . Gently prise open clamp 1cm or so, twist tail pipe to remove catching the 'donut' if it comes loose . Repeat for other bolt to primary silencer
Step 4 . With socket wrench, remove the 2 nuts at the wheel end of the silencer . Grease the threads of the welded in bolts to protect them and refit the nuts (the bracket itself can be removed completely if desired - 2 bolts) . Remove silencer
Step 5 . Work out which way round G-pipe needs to go - The tailpipe will stick out about 4" from the bumper if its wrong! - Press donut to G-pipe with clamp loosely over the top, then press tailpipe into otherside of donut . Half tighten clamp with original bolt .
Step 6 . Get helper to hold the tailpipe in place . Press other donut into primary silencer, with clamp over the top . Gently press G-pipe into donut . Get it nice and straight . Half tighten clamp bolt . Now check tailpipe looks like it spot on in the middle and the gap between it and the bumper is as before (you'll have to account for some movement while accelerating). Fully tighten up the bolts .
Step 7 . Put wheels back on . Remove jack . Fire the engine up and laugh at how great it sounds .
