Gages 944

Ok Im not now to porsches but i am to the turbo. I used to own an 84 n/a and Ive recently bought an 86 turbo with 212k on it. I love it!! It Will need a rebuild in the next year and i figured since the car is going to be apart and i want to build the hell out of it! I want to do a 3.0 turbo. I know i need a 3.0 litre crank and head but what else and what do i have to do? Thanks Gage.

ChrisJ951

You don't need a 3 liter head as the 3 liter heads are 16 valve. You can modify a 944 Turbo head to fit a S2 or 968 block. I know you'll need a 3 liter crank and I believe you'll have to sleeve the cylinder walls to fit wider bore pistons. I'd call Lindsey Racing or Chris White, they know 3 liter builds as good as anyone on here. New Rods are also needed, I believe. It might be easier to find an S2 or 968 engine and use that as a starting point. Lots of $$$ to build a reliable 3 liter engine.

Tom M'Guinn

Here's a parts list I've posted several times...

"Block with 88mm crank $2,000
Block/crank machining/polishing $500
Carrillo Rods $1000
Mahle Pistons $1300
2.7 Head $1200
Head/valve rebuild $700
951 exhaust valves $100
Swain coat exhaust ports $150
Jet coat headers/exhaust $200
3” exhaust turbo to tip: $1500
VR 5 $4400
big injectors $400
FPR $50
044 Pump with adapter $275
Clutch Package $1500
Cam/lifters (optional) $1100
Head gasket set w/widefire $175
Lower gasket set $175
Raceware (odd size) studs $350
Misc. Fasteners $150 (main nuts, locknuts, etc.)
Main bearings (std) $200
Rod bearings $80
Balance shaft bearings $50
Special loctites, sealants $150
Cap, rotor, plugs, wires $250
Coolant, oil, p/s fluid, filter $50
Belts (tbelt, b/s, p/s, a/c), rollers, wpump $450
Thermostats $75
H2O hoses, vacuum lines, couplers, clamps $350
Add’l seals/gaskets $200
Motor Mounts $300
Fuel lines $125

That list assumes you already have things like tial wastegate, boost gauge, boost controller, wideband system, forge bypass, strong transaxle and CV joints, etc. Otherwise, add those in too. My original tranny blew up promptly after turning the boost up, and I'm not alone.

That list also excludes labor if you are paying to have it done. If you decide to "save money" doing it yourself, be prepared to buy lots of tools and supplies to the extent you don't already have them, such as a good ring compressor, torque wrench, engine hoist, rod bolt stretch gauge, dial indicators, belt tensioner, micrometers, oprv alignment tool, drifts for b/s bearings, clutch alignment tools, port-matching bits, cc'ing kit, kimwipes, brakeclean, gun cleaners, oilstones, assembly lube, etc.

That also assumes you don't want to replate or paint anything, or do any "while you're in there things" like I and most people end up doing.

Are you willing to spend that money and use old ref, temp, knock sensors? If not, add those in too.

Are you going to trust a 20 year old OPRV with all that hardware at stake? No? Then add another few hundred. And, wouldn't it be nice to have a new oil pump while you're at it?

That also assumes that nothing gets fouled up during assemby with no need to buy replacements. Every seal slides right in, nothing needs to be disassembled, etc. Add a buffer for that too.

That also excludes additional performance parts needed to get you to an honest 500 to the wheels -- bigger TB/Intake, better headers, bigger intercooler, better ignition, etc. "

chrenan

As you can see with Tom's post above, building a 3 litre turbo is all about heat management. Temperatures get pretty high when you light that much money on fire.

lart951

Sad thing is that a guy with a 3l can never enjoy abusing his motor as a guy with a 2.5l pushing 21psi daily, because risking blowing 25k

blade7

Gages 944

Well thanks guys. Maybe ill just stay away from that. Lol and just look on the performance upgrade side to my motor!
Gage

blitz951

Even if you build a 2.5L its still a lot of money if done right. The car is 20+ years old you need to change everything anyway or you will have a car that your always repairing. 20+ year old wires, cooing system, computer, turbo, even the exhaust can leak at this point, this is what will cost you. The increase in displacement is not the big issue for cost.

gruhsy

Money and an understanding wife that makes more money than you

LR or Chris White can't go wrong with either.

Thom

Leaving for dead cars 3 to 4 times as costly with an engine put together with your own hands - priceless.

blade7

I've got a bike for that and it probably cost less than a 3.0 engine .

Thom

Your bike is only a bike

blade7

But it does wheelies .

odurandina

you need to do is get an engine that efficiently burns a ****load of gas when you smash your foot down on the pedal.

of course, a big turbo will do this but now seeing even more clearly, the big money involved, a V8 accomplishes this for less $$$.

dp951

No cup holder either